Ok I have been researching since 2pm today but I think I might have my answer but want to see you all think.

Ok so my problem was I cleaned off the Molybdenum disulphide grease off the back of the throttle body. Yes I know my fault blah. So I bought some dry film lube with molyd in it and sprayed 4 coats on the back and 1 coat on the front.

I was still having issues because I also messed with the throttle cable bracket, and replace the iac as well

so here is my plan

I read the Tps sensor has to be 13.333% on a fully closed throttle body so I loosened the 2 screws on the bracket and held the throttle assembly fully closed and put some tension on the cable bracket for a nice response while also keeping the plate closed, then used evoscan to set the tps sensor to the correct voltage

next I'm going to unplug the iac sensor and start the car to adjust the biss screw, which I also read that get it to idle to 750 rpms then plug it back in and reset the battery for it to idle to 1000rpms. You can also do this on evo scan with the SAS mode but since I have a 2.0 Cable I get the J-code error.

After all this Im going to see if this will fix my idle issues or is there another way to do it? It seems like there is a lot of controversy about setting the sensors, screw etc

 

Unplugging the IAC won't work to properly set the BISS. The SAS mode in evoscan moves the stepper motor to its correct adjustment before locking it out. If your IAC is at the end of its range, you won't be helping matters when you unplug it.

 

Ok luckily you told me that, im getting an j2534 error code with my 2.0 cable so that wont work. I guess from fully closed what is an estimated amount of full turns to get it close to stock? I read it was 4-6 turns. I know this wont be correct but i need something to start with.

I dont have a boost leak I checked it yesterday and a coupler was torn. I replaced it today

 

I've always read that the stock setting is 1.5 turns out from being all the way screwed in. I'm sure if I'm wrong someone will correct me though lol. I rebuilt my throttle body a while back and now every once in a while at idle it swings all the way lean and if I feather the gas pedal it comes back up to 14.7. I cleaned all that black stuff off the back of the plate so you might have just fixed my random lean idle issue. I've tried replacing almost everything that could cause this and its still doing it. Haha if it ends up being my throttle body shaft seal rebuild that caused this issue. I'm going to order up some of that 321 spray and see if it fixes it. I'd be so happy if it did you have no idea lol.

 

well I called buschur and they told me that they fully clean ported throttle bodies, they said they never spray the molybdenum "black stuff" on the back so im assuming it needs to be retuned in the iscv tables.

and here is why I say that: the throttle cable is easy, tighten the bracket while keeping the throttle plate closed so you have some nice tension on your pedal.
next I used evoscan to set my tps to 13.333% on a closed throttle and open is 100%
last the biss screw I screwed it down to hold my idle at 1000 rpms
and I replaced the iac valve as well.

What other issues could there be? I have done all the above last night.

The only thing I can't do is access my sas mode on evo scan due to cable being an openport 2.0 I get the j2534 code

 

I've done all that too and more. I have a 1.3 and a 2.0 so I have set my biss perfectly (sas mode) and even put a new biss in just to be safe. I have adjusted my idle stepper table also and it helped a little but didn't fix the issue. Replaced fpr (fuel lab mini afpr) and iac and set my tps. Mine goes from 12.8 to 100. The only thing else I can think of for my issue is valve float as my stock cams are pretty scorched and I'm having M3's installed next month with new lifters and springs and retainers. If my issue is valve train related I will know very soon and if not I wanted to do all those upgrades anyway. So Buschur said the black stuff doesn't matter huh? Sucks, I was excited thinking that might fix the random lean idle issue and idle dipping issues. It's totally random and again just feathering the gas returns it to proper idle instantly. When my issue happens the idle will dip to 650 and the wideband goes to like 18 and the vaccum goes from -17 like it normally sits to like -10. Then the car starts sounding like I have cams when I don't. That's why I'm leaning toward valve float.

 

There are a lot of different things that could cause this issue, and a lot of people have the same symptoms with different causes. Some of the causes are the biss screw, vacuum leaks, the moly spray, the power steering pump sensor, the dv, and the stock iacv tables cause the issue. Another member named Shaesta and myself attempted to systematically go through and find the cause, he thought he found a cure with the synchronic bov but he had the setup a little weird from whats recommended, and I'm down to just the stock IACV tables.

 

I have no vaccum leaks (boost tested to 35 psi) new biss screw, new iac, adjusted stepper tables, I'm so sick of this issue so much. Jason, do you think it is worth spraying the moly spray on the back of my throttle body plate or is that another dead end? And wouldn't the power steering wire throw a cel if there was something wrong with it?

 

Yea he said they clean off the entire throttle body, so Im just going to adjust my biss screw and re look at tps sensor. They said it could be clocked wrong

 

Im having idle dip issues and P0122 code randomly popping out, i tried adjusting the tps sensor to 13.33% using a scantool (not evoscan) to check the settings with the Biss screw fully closed but the idle would go up to around 2200. why is it like that? i dont have evoscan and cable to properly park the iacv and set it from there.

 

Hmmm thats weird because when I close mine it start to die due to low rpms.

Let me ask everyone do you have larger injectors? I have pte 1000 and im wondering if they are failing? I bought them used but flow tested and cleaned them.

 

Nope mine are stock injectors. N rainwater I honestly couldn't tell you, I have seen a few people that have claimed that it worked when they did it, and some that tried it and it was no good. And as for the power steering pump sensor, no it won't throw a cel in every situation, I honestly don't know what would make it throw one like it should. I had my car for a year before I even found out there should have been a sensor there, and no cel. But yet again no luck for me on that part. I was planning on rebuilding the head this summer anyways (wot pulls on ice is not my idea of fun) so I was gonna have the throttle body ported and new springs and all that. But for some people it is simply a problem with the stock iacv tables that need to be re tuned properly and just switching to sd helps them with the issue. And as for Buschur tb's ,FROM WHAT I"VE READ, I personally have no experience with them, the reason they can get away with the complete cleaning is that the tb is much higher quality part when compared to the oem one so the butterfly door is a lot tighter and leaks around it less than the oem one that uses the moly to close the gap and prevent the leaking. Well enough of that novel for now haha.

 

well I can see why tuning the ISCV tables would be important if you have cams as well which in my case I do.

im going to try replacing the bov, and try a new iac valve and see if that is the problem. I reset the tps yesterday its correct, and set the biss screw as well it seems to run a little better this morning.

 

Can someone confirm that this is the stuff I need to spray on the back of the throttle body plate and surrounding area please?

DOW CORNINGDry Film Lube Molykote dry film spray lubricant 321

http://m.grainger.com/mobile/product...ilm-Lube-6Y773

 

Ugh, Grainger discontinued this product and no longer carries it, anyone have an alternative to this stuff I can use for this purpose? The lady on the phone told me they have crc brand (part # 2F138) that's similar or also a brand called jetlube (part # 2YKK2) too. Which of these would be best guys? Thanks!!!

http://m.grainger.com/mobile/product...rchQuery=2f138

http://m.grainger.com/mobile/product...rchQuery=2ykk2

Second one says for use with wood plastic glass rubber. I'm thinking the CRC for that reason.