matteclipse

Is there anyone in the Canton, Massillon, Ohio area that can help me swap some motor mounts out???

ProPilot04

iTrader: (11)

Matt. Which mounts are you swapping? It's a relatively simple job... perhaps if no one can help, and you can't take it to a shop, we could talk you through it a bit?

matteclipse

Im swapping out the lower rear motor mount, and the transmission mount.

jrainwater

iTrader: (10)

The rear mount might require removing the subframe. Or you might be able to lift it up out of the back by the firewall but its going to be a very very tight fit. I need to replace that mount too as my stock one is getting spongy and old. But my subframe is rusting from age so after this winter I'm going to replace the rear mount, subframe, and lower control arms too with the whiteline kit. Good luck and when you replace that rear mount if you could come on here and let us know if you can do it without taking the subframe out that would be great. Thanks and good luck!!!

ProPilot04

iTrader: (11)

I was able to loosen my rear roll stopper mount by using an intricate combination of flexible wrenches, sockets, and contortion. My ACD was out, the subframe was lowered as much as it could be without disconnecting the PS, but I DID have the steering wheel disconnected.

I've never tried to just do that mount by itself, so I don't know... but the best approach is to remove the intake system, and UICP/battery, attack it from the top with one person, and have someone below (goggles!) with their feet towards the rear of the car, and face looking up just in front of the subframe. At least... that's how I think I would begin the investigation.

If you're going to be raising lowering the motor at all, be wary of the ground from the intake manifold to the firewall. It becoming disconnected has caused many a problem for many an Evo.

Good luck, ask if you have other questions of course.

matteclipse

Thank you for the good info

Ryan4dc

iTrader: (4)

Did mine with the subframe in the car. Used my matco locking flex 80 tooth ratchet, and my easy red double box ratcheting wrenches. These got leverage as they are long. The flex head ratchet was used below the car, wrenches used behind the engine from the top. Only removed the strut bar, lower subframe brace with the front motor mount, and the upper intercooler pipe I believe. The miata battery was small enough for me to get my arm around it to access the wrenches. Pry bar the engine to get the ratchet in and out.

matteclipse

Thanks, im going to work on it tomorrow, I hope this fixes my clunking noises

jrainwater

iTrader: (10)

This is really good stuff, thanks a lot. I was going to wait to swap my rear mount when I do the subframe but you just gave me the confidence to swap the mount out now, cause it really needs to be. Thanks again for the good info and I have a small battery tray too so I'm glad that makes it easier.

matteclipse

Are you having any clunking noises??

ProPilot04

iTrader: (11)

FWIW, that rear mount is simply a roll stopper mount.

matteclipse

So, it wouldnt cause a clunking noise? I can feel it all the time

Ryan4dc

iTrader: (4)

Mine was a scraping noise. Was able to duplicate he noise with a prybar between that lower brace, and the trans case. Prying the engine up, made the exact noise I hear while driving. Scraping and banging while holding first gear, ie accel a bit then let off. Replaced mine with a torque solutions mount.

matteclipse

I know the mount is bad, I hear constant banging especially on decelerating and slow driving

ProPilot04

iTrader: (11)

No no, it can still clunk. Knowing that it's purpose is only to prevent the motor from rocking back and forth might help you narrow down the problem knowing when the clunk should ideally be occurring.