I had one hell of time pulling my acd pump and getting it back in. Now I have to do it again with a new pump.

I could not get the hard hydraulic line to not leak due to NO ROOM getting a wrench in there. Any one out there make a replacement braided line?

The acd line has that 1ft line from the pump to the super long line. (can be seen in link below.)

If I could find a flexible line to replace that part, my next install would be way to easy. Thoughts?

https://i.imgur.com/EwpT0TG.png

 

If you take the front bumper off and maybe even the undertray you should have plenty of room. Make sure you don't cross thread the fitting in there. When I was looking for fittings for my acd relocation project I vaguely recall that fitting being a 12x1.5 or 14x 1.5, but don't quote me on that. I do remember it being tough to find.

 

I have the bumper off and the under tray is gone. My problem is the space between where the pump is mounted and the pump. the line doesn't flex to get it on the pump and tight. plus the 2 inches of movement i can do on a wrench to tighten it.

 

The line is bendable. if you need to move it a bit, it will flex. Worst case, unbolt the whole acd pump assembly so you can slide it or move it enough to get you whatever clearance you need.

 

the last time I pulled it out, i took out the whole mount with the pump.

and put it back in that way.

should I be leaving the mount on and hooking everything up?

 

You could do the ACD pump relocation. https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...elocation.html

 

haha read that a while ago. looks like way to much work.

 

tried to put the new pump in. cinked the stainless line. fail...

 

when you say kinked, do you mean its totally creased on the bend? The line is bendable and you can form it if you need to make bends out of it. You may be able to cut that line, remove the fitting and install it in a new hardline. You may have to flare the line but that isnt too hard. Worst case there are ways to adapt that hard line to a ss line with JIC/AN fittings. Other option would be to source out a used acd line someone is parting out as well.

 

line got bent right after the nut to the pump. so now there is a permanent smash in it preventing almost all flow in the line. my neighbor is a car junky and said he might be able to fix it. worst case I have to buy a new one. I did remove the intercooler piping so I can pre-put on the line before installing the pump once its fixed/replaced.

It was probably a good thing anyway. my garage was -20 while I was doing this. lost feeling in my fingers

 

alright. neighbor rigged up a line for me. and it didn't leak. turned the key hit the pedal to the floor and it turned on. well now on to my next issue. I grabbed the lady to turn the key and bleed the system and pump only turnes on for a second then shuts off. with the bleeder open and doing this no fluid comes out. I drove it around and switched between the settings and it switched. I know there is a lot of air in the line though...

Thoughts?

 

Keep doing what your doing. That's how I bled my ACD years ago or you could buy one of these: http://m.ebay.com/itm?itemId=321335458086 Not sure if anyone in the US makes one.

 

thats a lot of green but would be nice. should I put the whole front up and turn the wheel while I am doing it?

 

You shouldn't have to. I would just keep trying by turning the ignition to on with the pedal floored. It sucks it only activates the pump for a few mins but there's really no other choice. Just to be sure, your using the bleed nipple on the transfer case correct?

 

There's a way to hot wire the pump to run it and bleed it the same way the Mitsubishi tool does. If you search through the threads on here about bleeding the acd pump, you should be able to find it.

acd-tuning.com used to sell a bleeder kit, which basically hot wired the pump. I used one when I did mine, which made it pretty easy, but it looks like they're transferring the business to someone else and the kit isn't available at the moment.

And If I remember correctly, the holding-down-the-gas-pedal-method is really just a test to make sure the pump is functioning and also to build pressure in the pump. I think some people have bled the pump this way, but it probably takes forever. To bleed it the way it was intended to be done, you need to connect power directly to the pump so that it runs continuously when you open the the bleeder valve.