HELP NEEDED URGENT!Evo IV seriously pissing me off
#19
#20
250 views and only 18 posts come on guys I've seen so many other threads where there is so much help but on all of mine I only get a limited amount of response ,what do you have to do to get more response on this site lmao bless the ones that. Have helped me thank you all
#21
You might want to check any Canada specific evo threads here on EvoM since Canada probably has more Evo IVs then here in the US. Someone there might have more knowledge then the guesses being thrown at ya here.
#22
#24
What's the full list of modifications? With just the TME6.5 head and cams as you described its already going to be running odd - as the ecu only knows info for the 4 head and cams.
Are you still running the stock evo IV ECU? - as these are EPROM so are non-tunable without "chipping" - or using something like an Apexi SFC
You will need an evo 5-6 ecu and a pin swap - or an evo 8 ecu and a pin swap to make it tuneable on a stock mitsi ecu - otherwise you'll need to go aftermarket (AEM, Link etc..).
Are you still running the stock evo IV ECU? - as these are EPROM so are non-tunable without "chipping" - or using something like an Apexi SFC
You will need an evo 5-6 ecu and a pin swap - or an evo 8 ecu and a pin swap to make it tuneable on a stock mitsi ecu - otherwise you'll need to go aftermarket (AEM, Link etc..).
#25
What's the full list of modifications? With just the TME6.5 head and cams as you described its already going to be running odd - as the ecu only knows info for the 4 head and cams.
Are you still running the stock evo IV ECU? - as these are EPROM so are non-tunable without "chipping" - or using something like an Apexi SFC
You will need an evo 5-6 ecu and a pin swap - or an evo 8 ecu and a pin swap to make it tuneable on a stock mitsi ecu - otherwise you'll need to go aftermarket (AEM, Link etc..).
Are you still running the stock evo IV ECU? - as these are EPROM so are non-tunable without "chipping" - or using something like an Apexi SFC
You will need an evo 5-6 ecu and a pin swap - or an evo 8 ecu and a pin swap to make it tuneable on a stock mitsi ecu - otherwise you'll need to go aftermarket (AEM, Link etc..).
Gates racing belts
Short ram intake
Steam pipe manifold
External wastegate
Greddy project b electronic boost controller
Greddy turbo timer
Hks adjustable suspension
Boost gauges
Shift lights
Tachometers
Ssqv bov
Big inter cooler
3 inch exhaust
4 inch tip
Hope this helps and man does this mean I'm going to get stung when I go to take it to get a tune as they're probably gonna charge me an arm and a leg right??? Would you know where ecu is located I bought it and car had a few mods so maybe it has a plug and play already in it as I brought it with exhaust and bov mmmmmmm, I dunno actually
#26
ecu is located up behind the front passenger foot well - kinda on the a-piller - its wedged right up there.
judging by your mods its only the cams and head wgate and controller + i-cooler
- What boost level are you running?
The cutting out at high RPM will be the ecu with added boost past stock, sounds like fuel cut from over-boosting as the load is more that the ecu will allow - Stock 4's were 13-14psi (0.9 bar) from memory peak and and fuel cut kicked in @ little higher 16-17psi.
anything more on the 4 injectors (510cc) and ecu you will have fueling issues with added boost - (hence the 5-6 or 8 ecu + bigger injectors or 2nd hand stockers from the later evos (560cc) and at a minimum a 255 intank fuel pump - the stock one will be useless now if it was like the one that was in mine...
judging by your mods its only the cams and head wgate and controller + i-cooler
- What boost level are you running?
The cutting out at high RPM will be the ecu with added boost past stock, sounds like fuel cut from over-boosting as the load is more that the ecu will allow - Stock 4's were 13-14psi (0.9 bar) from memory peak and and fuel cut kicked in @ little higher 16-17psi.
anything more on the 4 injectors (510cc) and ecu you will have fueling issues with added boost - (hence the 5-6 or 8 ecu + bigger injectors or 2nd hand stockers from the later evos (560cc) and at a minimum a 255 intank fuel pump - the stock one will be useless now if it was like the one that was in mine...
#27
Evolving Member
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Joined: Oct 2013
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From: Republican living in Seattle...rough
That's a lot of mods to have the car being untuned. First thing... Assuming Evo iv are also maf cars(correct me if I'm wrong), the ssqv will confuse maf and alter a/f ratio. You have different size piping for the intake and exhaust and the cars currently tuned to run on stock setup. Cams alone I wouldn't drive untuned, Nevermind push it... I'd probably get it towed to a tuner, get some injectors, Evo ix metal diverter valve (to replace ssqv), and a Walbro 255 so the tunes actually worth it because all of the other mods are useless if you can't enough fuel up in there.
Were the problems you're having always there or just after head work? Once the cars tuned, it will be easier to solve these problems if the tune itself doesn't solve them.
Were the problems you're having always there or just after head work? Once the cars tuned, it will be easier to solve these problems if the tune itself doesn't solve them.
Last edited by Sheasta; Mar 20, 2014 at 03:59 AM.
#28
ecu is located up behind the front passenger foot well - kinda on the a-piller - its wedged right up there.
judging by your mods its only the cams and head wgate and controller + i-cooler
- What boost level are you running?
The cutting out at high RPM will be the ecu with added boost past stock, sounds like fuel cut from over-boosting as the load is more that the ecu will allow - Stock 4's were 13-14psi (0.9 bar) from memory peak and and fuel cut kicked in @ little higher 16-17psi.
anything more on the 4 injectors (510cc) and ecu you will have fueling issues with added boost - (hence the 5-6 or 8 ecu + bigger injectors or 2nd hand stockers from the later evos (560cc) and at a minimum a 255 intank fuel pump - the stock one will be useless now if it was like the one that was in mine...
judging by your mods its only the cams and head wgate and controller + i-cooler
- What boost level are you running?
The cutting out at high RPM will be the ecu with added boost past stock, sounds like fuel cut from over-boosting as the load is more that the ecu will allow - Stock 4's were 13-14psi (0.9 bar) from memory peak and and fuel cut kicked in @ little higher 16-17psi.
anything more on the 4 injectors (510cc) and ecu you will have fueling issues with added boost - (hence the 5-6 or 8 ecu + bigger injectors or 2nd hand stockers from the later evos (560cc) and at a minimum a 255 intank fuel pump - the stock one will be useless now if it was like the one that was in mine...
Last edited by Wayne.kerr; Mar 20, 2014 at 04:00 AM. Reason: Forgot something
#29
Hi mate thanks for your reply.
That's a lot of mods to have the car being untuned. First thing... Assuming Evo iv are also maf cars(correct me if I'm wrong), the ssqv will confuse maf and alter a/f ratio. You have different size piping for the intake and exhaust and the cars currently tuned to run on stock setup. Cams alone I wouldn't drive untuned, Nevermind push it... I'd probably get it towed to a tuner, get some injectors, Evo ix metal diverter valve (to replace ssqv), and a Walbro 255 so the tunes actually worth it because all of the other mods are useless if you can't enough fuel up in there.
Were the problems you're having always there or just after head work? Once the cars tuned, it will be easier to solve these problems if the tune itself doesn't solve them.
Were the problems you're having always there or just after head work? Once the cars tuned, it will be easier to solve these problems if the tune itself doesn't solve them.
I bought the car from my brother inlaw who was told that he had blown the camshafts but everything before that was running nicely.when I got it we went to change camshafts and to my surprise the cams had grinder out the the areas where they sit and the cam caps ,further investigation showed that my brother inlaw blew the balance shaft belt ,wich caused the oil flow to stop hence the melting of the head and stuffed camshafts tried to get it fixed but cylinder head shop side it would not be worth fixing so I decided to go with the TME head and cams and added a steampipe manifold and external wastegate .i shocked it out today and found a wire to the 02 sensor had been broken so I connected it and it's not losing power when I drive it for over ten minutes it's doing better,but the cut at high rpms is still present ....hope this helps
#30
Evolving Member
iTrader: (7)
Joined: Oct 2013
Posts: 286
Likes: 1
From: Republican living in Seattle...rough
Hi mate
I bought the car from my brother inlaw who was told that he had blown the camshafts but everything before that was running nicely.when I got it we went to change camshafts and to my surprise the cams had grinder out the the areas where they sit and the cam caps ,further investigation showed that my brother inlaw blew the balance shaft belt ,wich caused the oil flow to stop hence the melting of the head and stuffed camshafts tried to get it fixed but cylinder head shop side it would not be worth fixing so I decided to go with the TME head and cams and added a steampipe manifold and external wastegate .i shocked it out today and found a wire to the 02 sensor had been broken so I connected it and it's not losing power when I drive it for over ten minutes it's doing better,but the cut at high rpms is still present ....hope this helps
I bought the car from my brother inlaw who was told that he had blown the camshafts but everything before that was running nicely.when I got it we went to change camshafts and to my surprise the cams had grinder out the the areas where they sit and the cam caps ,further investigation showed that my brother inlaw blew the balance shaft belt ,wich caused the oil flow to stop hence the melting of the head and stuffed camshafts tried to get it fixed but cylinder head shop side it would not be worth fixing so I decided to go with the TME head and cams and added a steampipe manifold and external wastegate .i shocked it out today and found a wire to the 02 sensor had been broken so I connected it and it's not losing power when I drive it for over ten minutes it's doing better,but the cut at high rpms is still present ....hope this helps
Sweet. One problem solved. Now as someone else already said that sounds like fuel cutout. This is happening most likely because it's not tuned, you can't get enough fuel there with stock fueling, or some other component is bad which is least likely (I had this issue when my ecu fried the pins for maf communication and was getting bad readings.) Again, this could possibly have something to do with running a blow of valve vent to atmosphere on a Maf car.