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coolant leak

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Old Apr 27, 2014 | 10:23 AM
  #16  
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Originally Posted by wowzers
Well, All this talk of RTV and no one cares to explain. <---- The thermostat looks like it has an o-ring on it already??? <---- im assuming the thermostat sits in what Mitsubishi calls, a "Water Neck".. located on the upper side of the coolant hose, near the battery and upper intercooler pipe. now, i dunno what the hell this thing is; that is called "Thermostat housing" ; (unless its some other type of "thermostat") and its associated gasket; any ideas?
The thermostat housing bolts to the head. That gasket that you posted sits between the head an the thermostat housing. The thermostat sits in the housing and then the water neck bolts ontop of the thermostat housing. Mine was leaking from the Thermostat housing gasket area. The leak I have is not related to the thermostat itself or the water neck.
Old Apr 27, 2014 | 10:24 AM
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Originally Posted by jrainwater
The reason I asked was I also did it with the water pipe still attached and the first time I tried to install the gasket and housing its such a tight fit there up against the head, that's when I pulled it back out and noticed the button of the gasket got pushed up a little bit and would have leaked. I actuslly used the rtv at first just to hold the gasket in place while I was installing the housing so it wouldn't move around but I'm pretty sure it helped with sealing it up too. I'm curious when you pull it back off if the bottom of the gasket ends up all deformed and smashed upward. Let me know plz.
I might give it a try but I'll have to look around to see what I'll have to remove to get some play out of the water pipe.
Old Apr 27, 2014 | 01:05 PM
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I noticed a couple of 12mm bolts holding it in place but I did not remove them. I was concerned if there was too much play that the oring on the water pipe wouldn't seat properly against the thermo housing. I'm just more curious when you pull the gasket out if it got smashed upwards at the bottom when you were putting it in, that would explain your leak too. Mine was getting smashed up a little but like I said the rtv held it in place so I could bolt it down.
Old Apr 27, 2014 | 06:56 PM
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When I removed the housing for the 2nd time, my new thermostat housing gasket just tore everywhere and fell apart. I picked up some thermostat housing/water pump silicone today and my new gasket and o ring should be here Wednesday so I'll give it a go once again when they come in.
Old Apr 27, 2014 | 09:40 PM
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That's what I thought. Mine was about to start doing that and that's when I stopped and did the rtv thing. It's almost impossible to get that housing on without damaging the gasket. I used a pry bar and wiggled the pipe a little as I slid the housing down and onto it. Good luck on Wednesday.
Old Apr 28, 2014 | 12:39 AM
  #21  
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Originally Posted by 19DB794
Everything was tight. All I removed other than the thermostat was the 4 12mm bolts holding the housing to the head and the 1 10mm bolt holding the housing to the water pipe.

actually, come to think of it..

im wondering if you over-tightened it…

because i did a search on the workshop manual… and it actually states that the bolts for the water neck should be 10NM.

which isn't that much when it comes to bolts… (i think spark plugs are rated at 25nm, to give you a picture)

im assuming that the rubber o-ring on the thermostat was not meant to be that tight as if it was the paper gasket type.

if this is the case, You might wanna check to make sure you haven't pinched the o-ring grommet too tight and warped it… if not… maybe try with a torque wrench this time and see how it goes.
Old Apr 28, 2014 | 06:52 AM
  #22  
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Haha we aren't even talking about the thermostat oring although I do appreciate your gumption. There is an oring on top of the water pipe where the housing sits. No bolts there actually. It just pushes onto the bottom of the housing.
Old Apr 28, 2014 | 09:08 AM
  #23  
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We are only concerned about the thermostat housing and the thermostat housing gasket. Not the water neck or the thermostat itself.
Old Apr 29, 2014 | 12:55 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by jrainwater
Haha we aren't even talking about the thermostat oring although I do appreciate your gumption. There is an oring on top of the water pipe where the housing sits. No bolts there actually. It just pushes onto the bottom of the housing.
any pics?

NFI
Old Apr 29, 2014 | 04:43 AM
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This is the water pipe. http://www.streettunedmotorsports.co...water_pipe.htm

As you can see there's a small nipple on the pipe ( not the smaller ones as that's for the turbo and other stuff ). That's what the thermostat housing sits on. There's a small o ring on that nipple to seal the housing to the water pipe.
Old Apr 29, 2014 | 08:50 AM
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I put a little oil on that oring the second time I had a go at it and it slid on a lot easier btw. Forgot to mention that before.
Old Apr 30, 2014 | 11:57 AM
  #27  
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Originally Posted by jrainwater
I put a little oil on that oring the second time I had a go at it and it slid on a lot easier btw. Forgot to mention that before.
Oil can damage many different types of rubber. I have found soapy water does the trick for o-rings / rubber stuff generally.
Old Apr 30, 2014 | 04:59 PM
  #28  
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My parts came in today so I put it back together. New o ring and thermostat housing gasket with water pump sealant around the gasket on both sides and no leaks. One step closer to being able to drive my car.
Old Jul 21, 2014 | 01:19 PM
  #29  
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What is this o ring that is being discussed in this thread?

Im trying to track down a coolant leak and feel that this may be my culprit.

Pics and thread here: https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...l#post11262001
Old Jul 22, 2014 | 04:57 AM
  #30  
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A VERY helpful tool I've added to my collection is an air lift used for cooling systems.
If you cannot pull a vacuum into the system - there is a leak and it really helps chase it down rather than wasting coolant and making a mess.
I purchased the snap-on universal version and it's worth every single penny. (And im frugal about spending money with snap-on, mac, matco, etc).

Check it out! You'll need a decent size air compressor to keep up with the demand for about 30-45seconds.

Amazon.com: UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit: Automotive Amazon.com: UView 550000 Airlift Cooling System Leak Checker and Airlock Purge Tool Kit: Automotive
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