I have not replaced anything regards to the engine, etc, I have only had the car for a year, or put anything aftermarket in the power train as I bought an extended warranty when I bought my car and I don't want to void that as it's already got me a new T-Case and Transmission. So I wont be retuning at least for another year.

I don't see replacing small things like the injector seals being an issue, but if its anything over $100 I want to get it replaced through the dealership as my warranty deductible is only $100.

Thanks Ethan, I will have to give you a call next week, by time I'm out of work this week you're already gone.

 

I was trying to check more locations, but like I said the pressure dropped too rapidly and where I posted the information about is where I heard it right away.

 

Yeah, sometimes you'll fix one leak then find another. It's always worth doing another boost leak test after you fix a leak.

I would also at least feel around for those vacuum lines I mentioned. It is common for the one that goes to the EGR valve (behind and under the throttle body) to pop off. It's kind of a pain to do, but I zip tied all of them onto the nipples (none of them have clamps or anything holding them on).

 

Most issues related to boostleaks are fixed rather easy and cheap as long as your doing the work yourself. The injector rings can be around 20$ and than free if you install it which is pretty easy to do. And you doing those small things yourself wont void a warranty.

Same goes to the air lines that may have leaks in them, Hoses are cheap and replaced easy. Get those little things out of the way first than do another boostleak test and go from there.

If the issue is still there and you hear air coming from the back side of the turbo that you think may be the wastegate than bring it in to the dealer you have the warranty with and see what they can do because that could be a bit more work that you wont want to do yourself.

 

Yeah, I am capable enough to do most of the work myself.

The only reason I wouldn't if it's something more expensive than $100, cuz of the warranty I mentioned - I know if I need to replace the wastegate actuator its ~$130 (From the minimal pricing I've done online), and I read it needs to be calibrated and such (I don't know how to do that).

But definitely will be calling Ethan at STM to talk to him.

 

Ordered parts from STM - injector seals, intake gasket, and throttle body gasket - hopefully this solves the problem.

Standby!

 

Replaced injector seals, and throttle body gasket. Didn't have time/patience for the intake manifold gasket.

Checked those lines.. and providing I was grabbing the right ones they were on just fine.

What does that leave me with.. WGA? BOV?

I think at this point I might just take it to the stealership and take advantage of my warranty (turbo should = power train)

 

did you boost leak test the car?

 

^ He mentions he did a boost leak test in post #11.

 

Alright, don't know if anyone has even looked at this in a while, but just an update for you curious kittens, after the 2 things I replaced, I don't have the resources to figure it out myself, so I took it to the dealership.. they had it for almost 2 days, and couldn't figure a damn thing out, at least I don't have to pay them for a diagnoses, which is nice..

But.. people who gave feedback on specific parts - wastegate, bov, how certain are you on those? I know shrtstuff89 you said it was your "first thought"

I know there were some mentions of the throttle body - maybe I can get some shaft seals from the guys at stm.

I'm kind of at a loss, and I don't want to keep buying $150+ parts for them to not work... if anyone has any more input it would be greatly appreciated.