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Evo ix rear diff howl

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Old Jun 7, 2014 | 06:25 AM
  #1  
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Evo ix rear diff howl

Just bought a evo ix with a rear diff howl/whine.
The owner told me it was the bearings on their way out and he has them on hand.
He will be giving them to me next week. Is this something i can diy?

Car whins from the rear no matter if in acceleration, decel, neutral.
And no its not a wheel bearing
Old Jun 7, 2014 | 07:19 AM
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I am afraid that it is not bearing
Old Jun 7, 2014 | 12:01 PM
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Sorry doesnt do it on neutral, only when a gear is engaged , on accel or decel
Old Jun 7, 2014 | 12:09 PM
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Remove the cover and all will become clear
Old Jun 7, 2014 | 12:20 PM
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And rear diff bearings sorry
Old Jun 7, 2014 | 12:55 PM
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It's a bit strange that it doesn't do it in neutral. So if you are rolling and you throw the clutch in the noise stops?

My pinion bearing in my diff went out and it whined no matter what I did, the only thing that affected was speed.

Is it definitely coming from the rear? If you are able to, get your car on a lift with the wheels running and listen to exactly where it is coming from.
Old Jun 7, 2014 | 07:15 PM
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Yup stops if i throw it in neutral. It will also slightly dissapear if i only apply slight throttle, and it gets loud when i let the car deccelerate or if i accelerate
Old Jun 8, 2014 | 05:02 PM
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I have that same issue with my diff. Mine ended up being a bad pinion bearing. It was toast. Here is one way you can almost guarantee if it is the rear diff. With it in neutral coast down a steep decline-- We have a parking lot a work that has a decline for maybe 20 feet, that should be plenty. You only need to get it to maybe 5-9 mph. Anyhow, if you listen carefully you might here the bearing in the rear diff growling as its rotating. At a really slow speed they may growl/grind, and at higher speed can turn into a whine/siren type noise. Well at least that's how bad mine got.

If you remove the back seat and your trunk is empty it will be more obvious. OR, another option is to get the wheels up in the air, have someone in the car and replicate that noise at speed while your underneath trying to verify where its coming from.


Third option.. unbolt the driveshaft, remove the rear axles out of the diff, and spin the rear diff at the flange by hand and see if it rotates smoothly. When they are bad it is obvious when you are rotating it by hand. It wont feel smooth and may even get jerky. G/L
Old Jun 9, 2014 | 07:37 AM
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Just curious, do you have upgraded rear diff mounts?
That increases the diff noise naturally, mine was x3 louder after doing my bushings.
Old Jun 9, 2014 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by TommiM
Third option.. unbolt the driveshaft, remove the rear axles out of the diff, and spin the rear diff at the flange by hand and see if it rotates smoothly. When they are bad it is obvious when you are rotating it by hand. It wont feel smooth and may even get jerky. G/L
I had never thought of trying this, this is a brilliant idea. You will find out very quickly by doing this.

for you Tommi
Old Jun 10, 2014 | 10:59 AM
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Here is the full modlist if the car i bought. He was a active member here . Phil tabry?

ECU Tuned with Tephra V7 by Eric Bilodeau of EBtuning on facebook, tuned to 24 psi (21 at the gauge, 24 if read by the sensor) with approx 400 whp and 370 wtq for 94 octane gas and stock spark plugs
Modlist
ETS short upper intercooler pipe, + stock
ETS v2 lower intercooler pipe + stock
ETS 3.5 v3 front mount intercooler + stock
Perrin intake + stock
Grimspeed Electonic boost control solenoid + 1 spare + stock
Evo X/JDM IX 3 bar MAP sensor for boost logging
Megan O2 housing + stock
Unknown 3" downpipe + stock and stock cat converter
custom 3 inch double magnaflow w/ 24 inch resonator turboback exhaust test pipe setup + stock
ARP high torque load headstuds
Mishimoto alumium radiator
Samco "urban camo" rad hoses, upper and lower + stock
1100cc FIC injectors + stock (these injectors are super loud, not an issue)
Walbro 255 lph fuel pump
Fuellab rising rate fuel pressure regulator set to 39 psi at idle
Spoolinup Coil on Plug ignition setup with CF cover plate and Denso coils + stock
HKS Kansai Service titanium 3 point strut tower bar. ( 1 of only 20 sold new at 800$, Jdm bling weighs 2 lbs instead of 10 + stock
Swift Spec R springs + stock GSR + Stock MR springs
Custom-valved bislteins to Swift Specs by Bilstein Californa + Stock GSR KYB struts
Sheptrans Stage 3 transmission with custom gearing (ultimate ratio) and REM isotropic finishing treatment, installed Sep 2013
Sheptrans rear diff, 12-plate maxx lock 1.5 conversion + spare bearings
Competition Clutch, Stage 2 HD clutch installed Sep 2013
AMS steel clutch pedal hose
Buschur under hood shifter bushings
Energy suspension urethane interior shifter bushings
Whiteline Roll center adjuster package
Peformance friction front 2-piece floating dimpled rotors (extremely well performing and rare, 1200 a set)
Napa Premium rear rotors (brand new 1 day of wear)
Hawk HPS front and rear pads (brand new, 3 weeks of wear)
Trunk mounted battery conversion (optima red top in Taylor battery box - clean)
Cheap low rolling resistance "green" summer tires 235/45/17 90% left
JDM IX rear bumper + stock USDM spare
JDM IX rear tails + stock USDM spare
Orbital 2-din head unit conversion + stock
Pioneer AVIC-X 710bt headunit + stock
Pioneer Reference speakers in rear
Diamond Audio component setup in front
ATI dash top-mounted 3 gauge pod
AEM digital Wideband, boost and oil pressure gauges installed and wideband setup for logging
Openport 1.3 U OBDII read/write cable + extension cable 90 deg
Stock Evo IX wheels included with summer tires mounted

The car whines if im deccel or accel but if i slightly apply throttle the noise becomes very faint
Old Jun 10, 2014 | 11:05 AM
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So you already have a Shep rear diff? I would check it all before suspecting that as an issue--if it was stock I could see it. You have good ideas presented, keep us posted.
Old Jun 11, 2014 | 09:11 AM
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Wow, that mod list brought some insight.

This is what I would do.. Call Mr. John Shepard and ask him since you have a diff and TC from him, it maybe normal, and then ask for his advice.

I don't want to come off like a dick saying you're wasting everyone's time, but if you are looking for the expert opinion you should go with the expert which modified your parts. That's the best advice you can get. Good luck
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