Question to the evolutionm public?...
#1
Question to the evolutionm public?...
Is it best for me to buy a evo rolling shell rather than buying a whole evo cuz I think it's best for me to buy a roller it's cheaper for me plus if I buy a roller it would be best cuz I would know what I build instead of buying someone else foundation but buying a shell I still have to buy the missing parts so the car can drive plus have to save for years to finish building it...but buying a whole evo one time it's kinda good in my country but wen it comes to shipping and handling and all that there is where my problem is and I know it wud be cheaper to buy a shell with seats and stuff no engine no TransferCase no tranny but yet both got me in a tight spot so I just want to ask you guys for help and I live in Barbados witch is in the Caribbean so if you guys and give me a wonderful advise I thank you cheers
#5
On track:
I would go with getting the full car and building your part stockpile over time.
Atleast then you can still drive the car and you'll get a better feel for what you think you really want from the car (HP, handling etc etc)
#6
Some people are just plain dicks, nothing constructive to say, all know it all's, and all ***in mouth. Try to get an evo as much together as you can, parts can be sourced, but will be a protracted build. You want to get to driving the Evo, not staring and longing for the day u can. Peace
Last edited by silverevo9; Jun 30, 2014 at 01:00 AM.
#7
A shell only makes sense if you were going to throw everything else out and start over anyway. Once you price a motor, tranny, transfercase, rearend, brakes, and interior, you'll quickly see how a $2000 shell isnt that great of a deal. A high mileage complete 8 (usdm) is a much better value IMHO.
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#9
To be fair, punctuation and paragraphs help others help you. I am prepared to make the assumption that the question is whether it is best to build an evo from a roller or just to buy a road ready one.
It depends on what you want to do with the car.
Big power built stroker? Buy a roller and pick and choose your parts. All the parts are out of the car already so a good portion of the work is already done.
Daily driver with a few or no mods? Buy a road ready one, the hassle and expense of getting a roller on the road will likely easily cost more than a road ready example.
It depends on what you want to do with the car.
Big power built stroker? Buy a roller and pick and choose your parts. All the parts are out of the car already so a good portion of the work is already done.
Daily driver with a few or no mods? Buy a road ready one, the hassle and expense of getting a roller on the road will likely easily cost more than a road ready example.
#10
Like was said above. Once you start pricing everything that you need to complete the shell and make it run, its not that great of a deal. I would just look around for a running evo in good condition and work on your sales and bargaining skills to try to get it at the lowest price possible.
#11
If i had anything to add here is, you have two main choices as you've stated and others.
1) Buy a shell and build it.
2) Buy a running car and build it.
The main question is, "How soon do you want to drive it?".
If i was to do it all again, i would have bought a shell and have built it the way i like it, by doing research, finding out for what purpose i'd like to build the car for, and go on about building it.
Reason "I" would choose "Shell" and build it (1), is because buying a Full car, and building it cost "ME" more money. I've replaced almost every part in my car, and would have actually saved A LOT of money if i bought a shell.
So if you have time and would like to learn a LOT about the car by research/reading, and working on it. You will save a lot of money in the long run. You'll be able to create your own history with the car and build it as you please. And you dont have to listen to the sellers information, such as "yes its been taken care off. Oh yes, the oil changes were done every 3000miles. Yes yes, i've never abused the car, and so on and so forth.
Im sure you'll know what you want to do in the end.
Best of luck.
Dave
1) Buy a shell and build it.
2) Buy a running car and build it.
The main question is, "How soon do you want to drive it?".
If i was to do it all again, i would have bought a shell and have built it the way i like it, by doing research, finding out for what purpose i'd like to build the car for, and go on about building it.
Reason "I" would choose "Shell" and build it (1), is because buying a Full car, and building it cost "ME" more money. I've replaced almost every part in my car, and would have actually saved A LOT of money if i bought a shell.
So if you have time and would like to learn a LOT about the car by research/reading, and working on it. You will save a lot of money in the long run. You'll be able to create your own history with the car and build it as you please. And you dont have to listen to the sellers information, such as "yes its been taken care off. Oh yes, the oil changes were done every 3000miles. Yes yes, i've never abused the car, and so on and so forth.
Im sure you'll know what you want to do in the end.
Best of luck.
Dave
#13
I've seen 2 guys buy an Evo. One had low compression on cyl 4. The other had no compression on cyl 2 and blew a lot of smoke. Turns out both their Evos had built blocks. I don't know the problem with the low compression one and the other, they never grinded the rings. Just installed as-is and when he finally took out the piston, the rings were already in pieces. Both guys were told their Evos were stock. Even had the stock intake box in it. Upside is both chassis were clean and little to no rust and living around a place with snow and salted roads, it was pretty amazing.
I can understand your concern with building up an Evo since seeing these 2. Just make sure you know what you're getting into and know you might end up spending more than what a high mile, running Evo cost.
#14
Or a restoration project.
I've seen 2 guys buy an Evo. One had low compression on cyl 4. The other had no compression on cyl 2 and blew a lot of smoke. Turns out both their Evos had built blocks. I don't know the problem with the low compression one and the other, they never grinded the rings. Just installed as-is and when he finally took out the piston, the rings were already in pieces. Both guys were told their Evos were stock. Even had the stock intake box in it. Upside is both chassis were clean and little to no rust and living around a place with snow and salted roads, it was pretty amazing.
I can understand your concern with building up an Evo since seeing these 2. Just make sure you know what you're getting into and know you might end up spending more than what a high mile, running Evo cost.
I've seen 2 guys buy an Evo. One had low compression on cyl 4. The other had no compression on cyl 2 and blew a lot of smoke. Turns out both their Evos had built blocks. I don't know the problem with the low compression one and the other, they never grinded the rings. Just installed as-is and when he finally took out the piston, the rings were already in pieces. Both guys were told their Evos were stock. Even had the stock intake box in it. Upside is both chassis were clean and little to no rust and living around a place with snow and salted roads, it was pretty amazing.
I can understand your concern with building up an Evo since seeing these 2. Just make sure you know what you're getting into and know you might end up spending more than what a high mile, running Evo cost.
#15
I thank you all for the help I will save money and buy a evo 8 rolling shell from this site in the future. But the reason why I want the shell is because in my country is a rip off country lol if I buy a driving evo the port will charge me too much money to get it out.