Horriffic Vibration while engaging clutch
#16
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On to the bad news! My clutch pedal got stuck to the floor. And left me stranded. I'm assuming hydraulic system(DUH). But I never did have a chance to bleed the line, and it almost seems to be the culprit.
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Clutch pedal stuck to the floor still could be a number of things. When mine got stuck to the floor it was because the throw out bearing separated into 2 pieces. There is and inspection hole up top and also you can take the boot off that goes around the fork and take a look inside to see whats happening. If your fork is still in the middle position then it is your hydraulic system but if you fork is all the way to the passenger side resting on the transmission case it is internal. Wave clip, bearing, pressure plate
#18
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Well my slave cylinder piston rod was underneath the car. I'm just hoping the the throw out bearing didn't cause this.
I did look under it couple days ago and everything seemed fine for the throw out bearing.
I did look under it couple days ago and everything seemed fine for the throw out bearing.
#20
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You have hot spots on the fly wheel and or pressure plate or you might have broken or lost springs if it is a sprung clutch. Which I'm assuming it is. Yes, air in the system would cause an inconsistent release, by this I mean it would not be the exact same every time you release the clutch. Example, it may start releasing before or later than the last time you tried to take off.
Now with that out of the way, hot spots are more like a warped rotor affect. I understand the clutch disc is not a rotor but your flywheel and pressure plate almost act like it. If there are hot spots or hard spots, and that has taken a toll on the disc, then while engaging you will get a very fast "grab and relase" over and over until you have fully engaged the clutch (foot off the pedal)
Do you drag your clutch in 1st and reverse alot? Or are you in a very hilly area where you must stop and go on hills?
Pretty sure a clutch kit is in your future and it will be fixed..
Now with that out of the way, hot spots are more like a warped rotor affect. I understand the clutch disc is not a rotor but your flywheel and pressure plate almost act like it. If there are hot spots or hard spots, and that has taken a toll on the disc, then while engaging you will get a very fast "grab and relase" over and over until you have fully engaged the clutch (foot off the pedal)
Do you drag your clutch in 1st and reverse alot? Or are you in a very hilly area where you must stop and go on hills?
Pretty sure a clutch kit is in your future and it will be fixed..
#21
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You have hot spots on the fly wheel and or pressure plate or you might have broken or lost springs if it is a sprung clutch. Which I'm assuming it is. Yes, air in the system would cause an inconsistent release, by this I mean it would not be the exact same every time you release the clutch. Example, it may start releasing before or later than the last time you tried to take off.
Now with that out of the way, hot spots are more like a warped rotor affect. I understand the clutch disc is not a rotor but your flywheel and pressure plate almost act like it. If there are hot spots or hard spots, and that has taken a toll on the disc, then while engaging you will get a very fast "grab and relase" over and over until you have fully engaged the clutch (foot off the pedal)
Do you drag your clutch in 1st and reverse alot? Or are you in a very hilly area where you must stop and go on hills?
Pretty sure a clutch kit is in your future and it will be fixed..
Now with that out of the way, hot spots are more like a warped rotor affect. I understand the clutch disc is not a rotor but your flywheel and pressure plate almost act like it. If there are hot spots or hard spots, and that has taken a toll on the disc, then while engaging you will get a very fast "grab and relase" over and over until you have fully engaged the clutch (foot off the pedal)
Do you drag your clutch in 1st and reverse alot? Or are you in a very hilly area where you must stop and go on hills?
Pretty sure a clutch kit is in your future and it will be fixed..
I understand exactly what you mean.
I have a few questions though....Would it be possible to see the springs if they are broken? I'm not talking broken springs, but more like big chunks from it.
The symptoms that you stated aren't exactly what I was experiencing. Will I be able to feel the"grab and release" is that what the shaking feeling is? Or would I feel the fore and aft?(jerking feeling) or just a rumble kind of feeling..?
I'm almost in the flattest location of America. Hills are about 100-200 miles away.
thanks!
I hope I didn't come off as challenging your statement, but just trying to get a better clarification.
#22
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I understand exactly what you mean.
I have a few questions though....Would it be possible to see the springs if they are broken? I'm not talking broken springs, but more like big chunks from it.
The symptoms that you stated aren't exactly what I was experiencing. Will I be able to feel the"grab and release" is that what the shaking feeling is? Or would I feel the fore and aft?(jerking feeling) or just a rumble kind of feeling..?
I'm almost in the flattest location of America. Hills are about 100-200 miles away.
thanks!
I hope I didn't come off as challenging your statement, but just trying to get a better clarification.
I have a few questions though....Would it be possible to see the springs if they are broken? I'm not talking broken springs, but more like big chunks from it.
The symptoms that you stated aren't exactly what I was experiencing. Will I be able to feel the"grab and release" is that what the shaking feeling is? Or would I feel the fore and aft?(jerking feeling) or just a rumble kind of feeling..?
I'm almost in the flattest location of America. Hills are about 100-200 miles away.
thanks!
I hope I didn't come off as challenging your statement, but just trying to get a better clarification.
#23
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Jack up the car.
Driver side by the crossmember support there's a little rubber plug, shine a flashlight up there and you will be able to look at the throw out bearing and you might be able to see the clutch disc springs inbetween the pressure plate fingers.
You can also rotate the clutch assembly by taking a 22mm socket and ratchet to the crank and slowly rotate while you inspect.
The fact that the piston from the slave popped out highly suggests pressure plate, throw out bearing, or clutch disc failure.
Driver side by the crossmember support there's a little rubber plug, shine a flashlight up there and you will be able to look at the throw out bearing and you might be able to see the clutch disc springs inbetween the pressure plate fingers.
You can also rotate the clutch assembly by taking a 22mm socket and ratchet to the crank and slowly rotate while you inspect.
The fact that the piston from the slave popped out highly suggests pressure plate, throw out bearing, or clutch disc failure.
#24
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Saw I changed out the slave cylinder only to notice that the fork was positioned completely to the passenger side.
So now, I'm assuming I need to pull the trans to replace my TOB?
Any other solutions?
So now, I'm assuming I need to pull the trans to replace my TOB?
Any other solutions?
#30
this exact same thing happened to me, clutch pedal hit the floor so I thought great slave cylinder thats easy but no throwout bearing went out because of the factory collar they put on so I went with an ACT monoloc collar and a new OEM throwout bearing and all vibrating stopped and its as good as new. Sucks you gotta drop the tranny but the ACT monoloc is a great idea.