Ready to burn this car
Dec 3, 2014 | 06:30 PM
#31
Dec 3, 2014 | 06:42 PM
#32
Probably won't, they usually aren't... its sandwiched pretty tight in there so there isn't a whole lot of knocking around etc, its just wedged.
#2 If your lights are causing the car to die and they go out, odds are the alternator is poo poo. The battery and brake light coming on together would confirm it (happens any time voltage goes under ~12.8V or over ~14.9V). Double check your connections and wiring of course.
Do yourself a favor and get a factory alternator. They aren't too much money and they work right the first time. Aftermarket ones are hit or miss, even "high end" ones. Avoid Duralast and Napa ones like the plague, I throw those POSs in the scrap pile all the time, often within weeks of customers install.
The oil light sucks. If it is coming on with a new switch, unless the new switch is bad you probably have low oil pressure. The odds of the new switch being bad and in the same way as the original are not very good.
I'd check your wiring for any damage, pinching, etc, and if nothing unusual shows up get a mechanical gauge (not a dash gauge, and actual diagnostic gauge) and check the pressure to see where you stand when hot. If it is just barely enough to trip the light when fully hot (oil is thinned most) and idle (pump speed is lowest), you can probably bump to a thick oil and buy some time, but you are going to need to address the cause of low pressure at some point. You might get lucky and you got some sludge in the pick up tube, or your pan is punched up into the pick up, but more likely would be you have bottom end wear
#2 If your lights are causing the car to die and they go out, odds are the alternator is poo poo. The battery and brake light coming on together would confirm it (happens any time voltage goes under ~12.8V or over ~14.9V). Double check your connections and wiring of course.
Do yourself a favor and get a factory alternator. They aren't too much money and they work right the first time. Aftermarket ones are hit or miss, even "high end" ones. Avoid Duralast and Napa ones like the plague, I throw those POSs in the scrap pile all the time, often within weeks of customers install.
The oil light sucks. If it is coming on with a new switch, unless the new switch is bad you probably have low oil pressure. The odds of the new switch being bad and in the same way as the original are not very good.
I'd check your wiring for any damage, pinching, etc, and if nothing unusual shows up get a mechanical gauge (not a dash gauge, and actual diagnostic gauge) and check the pressure to see where you stand when hot. If it is just barely enough to trip the light when fully hot (oil is thinned most) and idle (pump speed is lowest), you can probably bump to a thick oil and buy some time, but you are going to need to address the cause of low pressure at some point. You might get lucky and you got some sludge in the pick up tube, or your pan is punched up into the pick up, but more likely would be you have bottom end wear
Dec 3, 2014 | 06:57 PM
#34
Dec 3, 2014 | 06:58 PM
#35
Dec 3, 2014 | 07:07 PM
#36
Yep, the odds of it being "flush" between the springs and bolts are slim, so the pressure plate spring pressure is uneven, so the contact area of the release bearing is uneven, so the fork moves slightly, etc etc
Dec 3, 2014 | 07:42 PM
#37
Evolving Member
Joined: Apr 2009
Posts: 158
Likes: 0
From: CO
Yeah! I remember another member a few months back did the same thing. I was under the impression that it was almost impossible to put the disc in backwards, but super set me straight on that.
Now, proof is in the pictures. Sucks OP, but at least you know you will never do it again. Good luck.
Now, proof is in the pictures. Sucks OP, but at least you know you will never do it again. Good luck.
Dec 3, 2014 | 09:14 PM
#38
Evolved Member
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 1,171
Likes: 1
From: Falls Church, VA
at least you have a likely solution. awesome replies!
Dec 4, 2014 | 12:51 PM
#39
Dec 5, 2014 | 06:34 AM
#42
Dec 5, 2014 | 07:04 AM
#43