Car breaks up under boost even under no load (Video with DETAILED description)
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Car breaks up under boost even under no load (Video with DETAILED description)
2003 Evolution 8
10:1 2.0
buddyclub 272s
fic 2150s
tial vta bov
stock turbo
ets piping
View My Video
http://tinypic.com/r/2vi5e6d/8
Heres the story-
Car ran great after getting a base tune for the new motor. The base tune originally was only to drive the car to an alignment shop.
I ended up driving the car around for about 1500 miles with no issue (expect common bad tune issues, ie stalling when cold, bad gas mileage ect)
I merged onto a highway and was attempting to make a pass (probably more throttle than I should of gave an untuned car) when the sputtering got unbearable.
Ever since that highway drive the car has been completely unbearable. It wasnt this bad before that drive.
Car gets turned down for a tune-
Before the tune I replaced the front O2. And also shortened the gap on the plugs to be safe.
Tuner comes back with this list of issues (my resolution)-
-Boost leaks (Replaced J pipe gasket, and vacuum hose that was major issues)
-Replace spark plugs (replaced n gapped)
-Add coolant (I have added the proper amount)
-Missing knock sensor (No idea at all what happened to the sensor on the car but I ordered one and am awaiting the delivery from Mitsubishi)
DTCs:
P0325 - knock sensor (on order)
P0125 - Insufficient coolant temp for closed loop (have since replaced coolant temp sensor as a precaution and added coolant)
P0130 -O2 circuit bank 1
P0135 -O2 bank 1 heater (Used a Denso O2 why is this happening? Tuner rec'd bosh but EVom told me to use Denso?)
10:1 2.0
buddyclub 272s
fic 2150s
tial vta bov
stock turbo
ets piping
View My Video
http://tinypic.com/r/2vi5e6d/8
Heres the story-
Car ran great after getting a base tune for the new motor. The base tune originally was only to drive the car to an alignment shop.
I ended up driving the car around for about 1500 miles with no issue (expect common bad tune issues, ie stalling when cold, bad gas mileage ect)
I merged onto a highway and was attempting to make a pass (probably more throttle than I should of gave an untuned car) when the sputtering got unbearable.
Ever since that highway drive the car has been completely unbearable. It wasnt this bad before that drive.
Car gets turned down for a tune-
Before the tune I replaced the front O2. And also shortened the gap on the plugs to be safe.
Tuner comes back with this list of issues (my resolution)-
-Boost leaks (Replaced J pipe gasket, and vacuum hose that was major issues)
-Replace spark plugs (replaced n gapped)
-Add coolant (I have added the proper amount)
-Missing knock sensor (No idea at all what happened to the sensor on the car but I ordered one and am awaiting the delivery from Mitsubishi)
DTCs:
P0325 - knock sensor (on order)
P0125 - Insufficient coolant temp for closed loop (have since replaced coolant temp sensor as a precaution and added coolant)
P0130 -O2 circuit bank 1
P0135 -O2 bank 1 heater (Used a Denso O2 why is this happening? Tuner rec'd bosh but EVom told me to use Denso?)
Last edited by evolvedevo91; Dec 20, 2014 at 06:30 PM.
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Should probably add-
I cleared the codes and havent got any codes back even with cycling the key a million times. Also started and turned off the car a bunch to try to make a code pop up but nothing.
I have not moved the car since. Only idle, but the car still breaks up even under no load.
I cleared the codes and havent got any codes back even with cycling the key a million times. Also started and turned off the car a bunch to try to make a code pop up but nothing.
I have not moved the car since. Only idle, but the car still breaks up even under no load.
#3
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knock sensor missing will cause a bunch of bad behavior. takes a bit to throw the code and usually won't do it at idle. it will tank your timing so fast youll think your towing a bulldozer. did you by chance forget to plug all the connectors in on the pass/back side of the head? two connectors will cause all of those codes. same for temp sensor. cop?
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knock sensor missing will cause a bunch of bad behavior. takes a bit to throw the code and usually won't do it at idle. it will tank your timing so fast youll think your towing a bulldozer. did you by chance forget to plug all the connectors in on the pass/back side of the head? two connectors will cause all of those codes. same for temp sensor. cop?
Well from what the tuner told me, the knock sensor should only affect the car when it gets into boost. If it detects an error with the knock sensor then it will put the car into a de-tune map. Like as if it was running 87 fuel.
I didnt get the coolant temp code back yet since the new sensor.
Guess this is on hold until I get the knock sensor. Should be coming in on Wednesday.
#6
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sorry i didnt check your vid. if you still have the stock coil packs i would say you have a wasted coil. mine would do that up a little higher . i made a homemade cop setup and it totally cured it then some. is your break in tune on tephra?
Last edited by robbyredneck; Dec 13, 2014 at 12:30 PM.
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Still awaiting the knock sensor.
According to my gauge in the video 30-40psi
Pulled the plugs and the insulator is still shiny white. SO Im going to rule the plugs out.
Anyway I am pretty sure this following thread describes my issue, for anyone in the future who may need the info. The last couple of posts on there go into detail about a missing knock sensor on the car and how the car would respond to that.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ec...l#post11359590
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Okay bump,
Car has the new knock sensor in it.
Plugs are good, and it's at the tuners.
This tuner is not new by any means. But he is having issues and um really hoping somebody can help me.
Car is fine before boost. Cruises fine etc. As soon as the car gets into any boost the car will sputter and it will not run correctly. Tuner says it could be from my 2150cc injectors on pump.
Anyone else have any input? This is my only car and I'm at a huge loss here guys. Hope somebody can give me some insight.
Car has the new knock sensor in it.
Plugs are good, and it's at the tuners.
This tuner is not new by any means. But he is having issues and um really hoping somebody can help me.
Car is fine before boost. Cruises fine etc. As soon as the car gets into any boost the car will sputter and it will not run correctly. Tuner says it could be from my 2150cc injectors on pump.
Anyone else have any input? This is my only car and I'm at a huge loss here guys. Hope somebody can give me some insight.
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Only one pump was powered at first.
My tuner powered the 2nd pump today and he said even at 136% injector duty cycle the car was going lean (14.0) into boost. Fuel pressure was around 60 psi into boost with both pumps running.
Would everyone agree the injectors can be the only probable cause at this point?
Brand new fic 2150s I can't believe this would be the issue but looks like it.
I even told him to remove the filter element just today in hopes that it was causing a resitrction. He told me it was clean, and it idled a little better without the element.
Last edited by evolvedevo91; Dec 20, 2014 at 05:43 PM.
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Tuner also said the fic 2150s favor e85. And told me 93 is kind of unreasonable to get these to idle on.
Car ran great with the one 255 and the 2150s on 93 a month ago.
What the hell happened
Car ran great with the one 255 and the 2150s on 93 a month ago.
What the hell happened