Fuel issue driving me crazy!
#16
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Okay, emptied out as much as I could (until there was just a quarter tank - since it can't scavenge when I use the pump to empty it, I can't get all of it out easily), then filled it with 5 gallons of new fuel... Not a blind bit of difference.
When I was emptying the fuel It moved about 3 gallons in a 2-3 minutes, which feels like 300-400LPH (I didn't time it properly since I didn't think about flow testing it when I was doing it). This is at zero PSI though, but at least it shows the pump is flowing.
Anyway, now I must test the pressure at the top of the carrier while it's running, but it uses that special click fitting - anyone have any ideas on what nipple fits that connector that I could buy? If I can get a nipple to fit it, I can hose clamp on the other side and put my T-pipe to my fuel pressure gauge. I'm wondering if there is a blockage in the flow pipe that runs from the back of the car to the fuel rail.
Thanks,
S.
When I was emptying the fuel It moved about 3 gallons in a 2-3 minutes, which feels like 300-400LPH (I didn't time it properly since I didn't think about flow testing it when I was doing it). This is at zero PSI though, but at least it shows the pump is flowing.
Anyway, now I must test the pressure at the top of the carrier while it's running, but it uses that special click fitting - anyone have any ideas on what nipple fits that connector that I could buy? If I can get a nipple to fit it, I can hose clamp on the other side and put my T-pipe to my fuel pressure gauge. I'm wondering if there is a blockage in the flow pipe that runs from the back of the car to the fuel rail.
Thanks,
S.
#18
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Okay, latest in the saga...
I managed to get an adaptor that fits on the rail (between fpr and rail) and allowed me to install a gauge right there... And I get between 5 and 10psi! Just about enough to start it and rev the engine, but of course nowhere near enough for any kind of load.
I also managed to get a new grommet for inside the tank... No difference!
Now I'm going to test the electrical system... Will post the results when I get them...
Thanks Izzy and everyone else who answered - if anyone has any other ideas, please let me know!
Thanks!
S.
I managed to get an adaptor that fits on the rail (between fpr and rail) and allowed me to install a gauge right there... And I get between 5 and 10psi! Just about enough to start it and rev the engine, but of course nowhere near enough for any kind of load.
I also managed to get a new grommet for inside the tank... No difference!
Now I'm going to test the electrical system... Will post the results when I get them...
Thanks Izzy and everyone else who answered - if anyone has any other ideas, please let me know!
Thanks!
S.
#19
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Arrrrg, okay, voltage is at 8.6v idle and bumps up to 11v+ when revving past 3Krpm, which I believe is about right.
I'm virtually out of ideas... So far tried:
- Pressure test @ pump housing - <10psi
- Pressure test @ rail exit - 0-5psi
- Voltage at pump - 8.6v idle, 11v+ at +3000RPM
- Replaced grommet inside fuel housing (between pump and housing)
- Flow tested (kind of) - 300-350LPH @ 0psi at pump housing outlet
Next I'm going to do a better (properly timed) flow test at the rail.
The low pressure across the board, even with a new pump, still makes me think there is a leak on the inside of the pump housing...
Thanks!
S.
I'm virtually out of ideas... So far tried:
- Pressure test @ pump housing - <10psi
- Pressure test @ rail exit - 0-5psi
- Voltage at pump - 8.6v idle, 11v+ at +3000RPM
- Replaced grommet inside fuel housing (between pump and housing)
- Flow tested (kind of) - 300-350LPH @ 0psi at pump housing outlet
Next I'm going to do a better (properly timed) flow test at the rail.
The low pressure across the board, even with a new pump, still makes me think there is a leak on the inside of the pump housing...
Thanks!
S.
#20
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Solved!
Hey guys,
I finally solved this issue! Getting good pressure (between 35 and 50 PSI). Car runs fine again...
The issue? Typically after spending hundreds in new pumps, gauges, adaptors, and hours of time... A stupid O ring! Under the black clip on the bottom of the fuel housing (with the ground wire on it), it actually sits inside the supply side chamber, and it has an O-ring on it... And that ring had slipped off (I had actually removed it the very first time since I wanted to remove the entire wire harness, but when I pulled it off the O-ring didn't come out with it so I didn't notice it. When I clipped it back on, the O-ring was sitting inside the assembly, but at an angle).
Anyway, I took the clip off today again because I was about to cut the entire housing open (double pumper style), but then I noticed the O-ring! I slipped it back on (10 second fix), and thought I'd give it a try - and sure enough pressure is back again!
I'm surprised no-one mentioned this (I spoke to two shops as well for ideas), since it was in the pressure side and directly affects the pressure... Unless someone did but I didn't realize. I was right though - there was a leak inside the housing
Anyway, thanks again to all who replied (especially Izzy who replied to me on two different threads related to this!)
Thanks!
S.
I finally solved this issue! Getting good pressure (between 35 and 50 PSI). Car runs fine again...
The issue? Typically after spending hundreds in new pumps, gauges, adaptors, and hours of time... A stupid O ring! Under the black clip on the bottom of the fuel housing (with the ground wire on it), it actually sits inside the supply side chamber, and it has an O-ring on it... And that ring had slipped off (I had actually removed it the very first time since I wanted to remove the entire wire harness, but when I pulled it off the O-ring didn't come out with it so I didn't notice it. When I clipped it back on, the O-ring was sitting inside the assembly, but at an angle).
Anyway, I took the clip off today again because I was about to cut the entire housing open (double pumper style), but then I noticed the O-ring! I slipped it back on (10 second fix), and thought I'd give it a try - and sure enough pressure is back again!
I'm surprised no-one mentioned this (I spoke to two shops as well for ideas), since it was in the pressure side and directly affects the pressure... Unless someone did but I didn't realize. I was right though - there was a leak inside the housing
Anyway, thanks again to all who replied (especially Izzy who replied to me on two different threads related to this!)
Thanks!
S.
Last edited by Rom; May 31, 2015 at 01:31 AM.
#21
Evolved Member
iTrader: (27)
Anyway, I took the clip off today again because I was about to cut the entire housing open (double pumper style), but then I noticed the O-ring! I slipped it back on (10 second fix), and thought I'd give it a try - and sure enough pressure is back again!
I'm surprised no-one mentioned this (I spoke to two shops as well for ideas), since it was in the pressure side and directly affects the pressure... Unless someone did but I didn't realize. I was right though - there was a leak inside the housing
Anyway, thanks again to all who replied (especially Izzy who replied to me on two different threads related to this!)
Thanks!
S.
I'm surprised no-one mentioned this (I spoke to two shops as well for ideas), since it was in the pressure side and directly affects the pressure... Unless someone did but I didn't realize. I was right though - there was a leak inside the housing
Anyway, thanks again to all who replied (especially Izzy who replied to me on two different threads related to this!)
Thanks!
S.
Congrats on getting your car back up and running.
#24
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Thanks!
S.
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