kaj

iTrader: (60)

If you are cruising and idling okay, your static pressure may read normal, though.

nor11384

iTrader: (1)

we'll the car runs fine...it doesn't run any different than when the readings were ok...while cruising in 5th gear out of boost it reads in the 16s...if I go wot it acts fine...there's no hesitation or sputter etc...it idles fine...idk...

DSMolition

iTrader: (17)

Easy way to check this (once you have a gauge and BLT). Your base should be at 43psi with vacuum line disconnected. Hook up your boost leak tester and charge the system. I always do over my target boost to be sure so I do up to 35 psi. Activate your fuel pump with either your AEM / evoscan (whatever you have) or you can just hotwire it with 12V from your battery. Your fuel pressure should raise at a 1:1 ratio. you can even stick a battery charger to simulate 14v to make sure you are good.

so at 20 psi of boost from your tester you should have 63psi of FP on your gauge and 30psi of boost your fuel pressure should be 73 psi.

nor11384

iTrader: (1)

interesting...so with a stock fpr the fuel pressure should read 43 psi with vacuum line disconnected?

kaj

iTrader: (60)

DSMolition

iTrader: (17)

it should be very close to 38.5-40psi with stock pump wiring and regulator. I guess I set it at 43 with a regulator.

nor11384

iTrader: (1)

I know that with an aftermarket regator it should be 43 but I have a 255 walbro fuel pump and stock regulator...so what should it read? 38 - 40 or 43psi?

DSMolition

iTrader: (17)

38-40 with stock regulator is what you should see.

nor11384

iTrader: (1)

copy that...I will install the fuel rail with gauge and get to checking

nor11384

iTrader: (1)

So I checked the aem sensor and it's good...installed fuel rail with gauge and with vacuum line disconnected it reads like 44 psi...idk wtf else it can be...would the tune go lean when summer comes around? I mean I'm on aem ems and iat sensor should compensate right?

kaj

iTrader: (60)

just looked back to your OP. if you are 13s or 12s at WOT and low RPM, that is okay. it should richen up as boost and RPM increases ending around 11.5-11.1 at 7k RPM.

in general, that is.

nor11384

iTrader: (1)

yeah thats because it has lean spool enabled but it used to be 10.8 - 11.2 after full boost to redline...no ive seen anywhee from 11.8 to 11.4...theres something going on...i rather be on the safe side...

kaj

iTrader: (60)

that's how all cars are tuned, that i've seen. you don't want to be at 11.1 at WOT and 2500rpm.

10.8 is way too rich, no matter how you slice it. that's beyond safe, IMO. 11.8-11.4 is what a lot of tuners shoot for, depending on your setup.
that small bit of variation can be cause by elevation and/or weather changes, so it could just be that, maybe?

nor11384

iTrader: (1)

well if I remember correctly my car at wot has never gone past 11.2... That's to redline...it was tuned in winter but I thought iat sensor was supposed to compensate for weather changes...I'm in fl so winter I mean like 60 ish degrees...of course now it's in the 90s but still I thought iat sensor is supposed to compensate...

kaj

iTrader: (60)

if your car is tuned for it, then yes. with AEM pretty much everything needs to be scaled, tuned, etc.