Hotsauce101

iTrader: (4)

I believe this is my issue with start ups when I let my car sit for 10-30 minutes after driving to full temp. When it just cranks and cranks away I hook up my portable jumper pack and she fires right up.

I tested my fuel pressure at idle via the return line with a T valve hooked up and it hoovers 18-22 psi. Upon cranking its at 28-33 then drops to 18-22.

Things I have done:

- Checked Fuel pressure - its 18-22ish PSI and drops a few PSI with the FPR vacuum disconnected.
- Swapped out the current Walbro 255 with a working used one
- Check the pump strainer. Looks good.
- Checked the grommet/ o ring that goes on top of the fuel pump
- Replaced FPR with a used one


Things I will be doing tommorow/soon:
- Replacing the whole fuel pump assembly (I an hoping this is it since the filter might be clogged but doesn't make sense if its clogged and my cruise/WOT AFR's are spot on from the tune

- Sending in the FIC 1100's for a flow test/clean up - Doesn't make sense since WOT

- Boost leak test (Doubt it)

- Check fuel pump voltage (I still don't know how to do this)

- Rage quitting and sell it to buy a CBR 600 and call it a night haha and go back to school lol.

- Check for a kinked line under the car

- Swap fuel rail?

- Sea Foam in the tank after I put in the new assembly with a new filter.

Any one have any idea's? Because I am out of them =/.

Technical10

iTrader: (2)

When you say you use a T valve to check fuel pressure, is this between the rail and the regulator or between the regulator and the return line to the back of the car? Between the rail and regulator is correct, otherwise it is not. On another note, the car does slow the pump down at idle and other points... that can reduce fuel pressure a bit, but not that low. Also make sure your gauge is worthy.... just like a tire pressure gauge, I have seen them off as much as 5-6psi.

Since you have different injectors, you really need to look at your fuel trims and O2 correction. WOT is easy, cruising and idle are the culprits to many issues. I run larger injectors and getting the trims to be properly set took a bit of time.

If you have good AFR at WOT and cruise, then the fuel filter assembly has nothing to do with it.

Sounds like setup and how you're checking things out.

Hotsauce101

iTrader: (4)

I checked the pressure at the return line after the fpr and rail.

My filter assembly will be coming in today so ill put that in.... might as well. Then ill try testing the fuel pressure before the fpr.

I checked my FT via my bluetooth dongle with an android app. It shows +24.4 -24.7%. Idle timing is 4-8.

I know thats basically pegged and maxed out. But would you say this would be a idle tune related issue? Maybe MAF calibration needs to be done? I doubt it since ots the same intake. I put an extra breather port on my valve cover. So basically 2x -8an fittings vented to air. The hose that connect the intake to the crank case breather has been capped off. Would this be my issue? I mean i capped off the port so there is no unmetered air going in.

Technical10

iTrader: (2)

Okay, here is what you have.....

For fuel pressure, after the FPR returning to the tank is completely pointless and is not rail fuel pressure. You need to check between the rail and pressure regulator and forget about the fuel assembly at this point as I bet it is just fine. That solves your fuel pressure mystery and before you change anything else, you need to check it the right way.

Venting the valve cover extra amounts and not back to the intake with the intake capped off is fine and will not affect anything except preventing oil residue from building up in piping, intercoolers, intake manifolds, etc.

Fuel trims, that is your source of issues if the numbers are reporting correct. For me (I do not have my laptop with me at this point) I know the trims are something like +1% and -6% with the closed loop always staying between +/- 10% which is acceptable. Idle timing is fine.

It is all tuning. I would not mess with the MAF calibration as you already have other issues. What I will say is that there is more than one way to have the car drive and go WOT correctly and completely suck at idle.

What are your injector settings? You said you have FIC 1100's.... what is the injector size set for and what are the battery voltage offsets? If you post that I can definitely give more info.