Evo 4 wont start!
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Evo 4 wont start!
Hi guys,
Yesterday I went for a drive in my evo 4, basically around a few blocks. Parked up for abit and went for lunch. 2 hours went by. Went to start the car and absolutely nothing happened. All dash lights come up fine, head and tail lights work perfectly. Ive had a flat battery before and usually when i would turn the car over it would make a ticking noise but this time there is no ticking sound at all. Tried to jump start it, again nothing happened. Checked both terminals from the battery they all seem to be fine.
Definitely need some help guys!
Could it be the starter? or is there some kind of fuse?
Yesterday I went for a drive in my evo 4, basically around a few blocks. Parked up for abit and went for lunch. 2 hours went by. Went to start the car and absolutely nothing happened. All dash lights come up fine, head and tail lights work perfectly. Ive had a flat battery before and usually when i would turn the car over it would make a ticking noise but this time there is no ticking sound at all. Tried to jump start it, again nothing happened. Checked both terminals from the battery they all seem to be fine.
Definitely need some help guys!
Could it be the starter? or is there some kind of fuse?
#2
Do you have an alarm immobilizer that may have failed? Usually immobilizers will either cut fuel, spark or starter (in your case it would be the latter).
If not, have you tried push/bump starting it? If it's purely a starter issue, that should start it.
Not too familiar with the specifics of the Evo 4, so not sure which fuses would have to check - doesn't your fuse housing have a fuse map? If any are related to starting they should be marked.
Thanks!
S.
If not, have you tried push/bump starting it? If it's purely a starter issue, that should start it.
Not too familiar with the specifics of the Evo 4, so not sure which fuses would have to check - doesn't your fuse housing have a fuse map? If any are related to starting they should be marked.
Thanks!
S.
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yeah car has immobilizer but that seems to be working just fine. Just tried to push start it, not cranking at all. i may have to do some research on the electrics.
Cheers!
Cheers!
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#6
Are you sure the immobilizer is disengaging? Any indicators might be working, but it may still be disrupting the starter.. The circuit diagram for the starter motor is very simple (pretty much ignition, to starter, batter to starter and ground to starter). Either something is disrupting it, or the starter is simply dead (although bump starting should have worked, so an immobilizer issue that's blocking both fuel and starter would make sense). See image...
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[QUOTE=Rom;11536559]Are you sure the immobilizer is disengaging? Any indicators might be working, but it may still be disrupting the starter.. The circuit diagram for the starter motor is very simple (pretty much ignition, to starter, batter to starter and ground to starter). Either something is disrupting it, or the starter is simply dead (although bump starting should have worked, so an immobilizer issue that's blocking both fuel and starter would make sense). See image...
[/QUOTE
It could possibly be that, because when i first turned the key on and then off all the lights on the dash stayed on... which was quite weird? considering all the dash lights should be off. i didn't take much notice of that until now. Could i potentially be looking at a fried wire here?
[/QUOTE
It could possibly be that, because when i first turned the key on and then off all the lights on the dash stayed on... which was quite weird? considering all the dash lights should be off. i didn't take much notice of that until now. Could i potentially be looking at a fried wire here?
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#8
In that case it could be a failed/failing ignition switch. The immobilizer shouldn't keep the dash lights on - but failing contacts in the ignition switch could.
If you have a multimeter you can run some tests..
1) Check for power at the starter which trying to start, just in case it is a failed starter (as previously tested)
2) Using the ohmmeter setting on the multimeter (or continuity test mode where the meter beeps when the leads are touched together), check for appropriate function of the ignition switch - you'll need the switch schematic for that, of course... and here it is for the Evo IV:
It's pretty straight forward... With one end of your ohmmeter on pin 2, touch it to pins 1, 3, 5 and 6 which the key is in each position.
1) Key in "Lock" or off position (where you can pull the key out), should see no reading on any of the pins.
2) Key in "ACC" (accessory) position, should see zero ohms (or beeping from the meter) on pin 5, and no reading on the remaining pins.
3) Key in "ON" position, should see zero ohms on pins 5, 1 and 3. No reading on pin 6.
4) Key in "ST" (start) position (i.e. where the car would be cranking), should see zero ohms on pins 3 and 6, no reading on the other pins.
Of course, your ignition switch should be entirely disconnected from the car when you do these tests (disconnect the battery too, if you wanna be extra safe). Never use resistance (ohmmeter) or continuity modes on a multimeter on live circuits - you'll possibly damage the meter!
Hope this helps!
Thanks!
S.
If you have a multimeter you can run some tests..
1) Check for power at the starter which trying to start, just in case it is a failed starter (as previously tested)
2) Using the ohmmeter setting on the multimeter (or continuity test mode where the meter beeps when the leads are touched together), check for appropriate function of the ignition switch - you'll need the switch schematic for that, of course... and here it is for the Evo IV:
It's pretty straight forward... With one end of your ohmmeter on pin 2, touch it to pins 1, 3, 5 and 6 which the key is in each position.
1) Key in "Lock" or off position (where you can pull the key out), should see no reading on any of the pins.
2) Key in "ACC" (accessory) position, should see zero ohms (or beeping from the meter) on pin 5, and no reading on the remaining pins.
3) Key in "ON" position, should see zero ohms on pins 5, 1 and 3. No reading on pin 6.
4) Key in "ST" (start) position (i.e. where the car would be cranking), should see zero ohms on pins 3 and 6, no reading on the other pins.
Of course, your ignition switch should be entirely disconnected from the car when you do these tests (disconnect the battery too, if you wanna be extra safe). Never use resistance (ohmmeter) or continuity modes on a multimeter on live circuits - you'll possibly damage the meter!
Hope this helps!
Thanks!
S.
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