Valvoline 10w30 full synthetic is also high on the zinc list I have ran it in multiple cars 3-400whp with 0 engine failures. Over 400 whp you should switch to something like the amsoil 15w50 which is what I run in the 3g now. BTW Mobil 1 had the lowest zinc content of all the oils tested I wouldnt run that **** in my lawnmower.

 

You would be surprised on how well pretty much any synthetic works with any power level.
It's also surprising how long you can go without a change.
To say most people on this site over do it and waste money would be a gross understatement.
I'm one of them LOL
But not as bad as most.

 

You and me think the same!

 

Here is my .02
Modern oils are all very good you really can't go wrong with any brand or type within your desired weight/climate. Things like Ethanol, different injectors, ring gap, mileage etc. will effect how contaminated the oil becomes. I would recommend changing it more frequently with E85 or getting an oil analysis like blackstone labs done.
I personally think oil is cheap and would change it every 1500-2000 miles on E85. If I were on Gas I might go 3000 miles/6 months.

On my stock engine I always allowed oil temp to get over 165* before beating on it. Nothing good comes from beating on a cold engine . I ran brad penn 10-40 and regular valvoline 10-40 for street stuff from 250-600whp. I also ran Valvoline VR1 20-50 on roadcourse days. Its well known that for road course days to run 20-50 when you are on 100TW or better tires and/or its really hot out. The theory is the heavier oil protects the engine under the increased load and if there is a loss of pressure for a brief period ( long hard right hand corners).
I never had an issue with my 94K stock engine at 500whp and numerous track days/abuse.

I'd stick with 5-30 / 10-40 weight unless you are at the north pole or very cold temps year round. Its an Evo with an old 4G63 not a prius. lol

 

In stark contrast to the man who won't use Mobil 1 in his lawn mower, my lawn mower is 10 years old, I've never changed the oil, I don't even check it. I'm not even sure if it has oil in it. Mostly because it's a Briggs and Stratton lol

 

Mine is a Honda. I never need to change it. LOL

 

Your mower deserves some love too, don't beat up on the little guy, my Briggs is 26 yrs old, gets an oil change and filter clean once a year and runs like new and loves me deeply for it!!

 

They have oil filters??

 

Air filter Brother

 

I don't know, but when I was in Auto Zone before Christmas I bought 5qt Castrol and a filter and the oil rang up at $10. The dude running the register couldn't do anything about it, so I bought 2 more 5qts.


So I guess I will be using cheap oil for another 10k.

 

I use the VR1 non synthetic on my daily driven X because it's cheap at $5.99 a quart at my local NAPA auto parts store and it has a ton of zinc in it. It was also one of the recommended oils on FP's infamous "oil post" they published on their blog. Car has 80k miles on it and is pushing roughly 360whp/360wtq on a daily basis and ive never had a issue

 

Mine runs like new too...lol

 

Rotella T6 in the DD's (Both Turbo Cars also)

Evo runs M1 HM (Great package in the HM Blend) UOA's have always been stellar. ~160k on the clock now.

Once an engine is built for the car I'll follow builders advice.

 

Just thought I'd add a point of note for the oils you pick.. if you go for a thicker oil, that'll take more time to heat up, you'll most likely be seeing quite the smoke-puffs behind you as you step on it, obviously you should wait until it's warmed up before you drive but we all know when in a hurry that is often not prioritized.

You're almost better finding the most sable oil with the right "ish" range that doesn't change much, than to go for "performance" oriented ones, if it's very cold. Me personally I live in Norway, so here it can both get real friggin' cold and we may also get spurs of temps that seem odd for wintertime in Norway (i.e no white christmas type of thawing levels), so it is really hard for me to pick an oil that the 4G63T will be happy with, but it doesn't make it easier that Mitsubishi only has recommendations for newer cars on their websites.. and I wouldn't go off of 4B11T recommendations for the 4G63T. I guess the "safest bet" for finding oil for the 4G63T in general, is to actually look what the Outlander CU_W 2.0 Turbo & Turbo R have recommended (as it's the "workhorse" application for the 4G63T, basically a 7 GTA with some more daily-use orientation).

 

Thicker oil doesn't take longer to heat up. That's not how heat transfer works

But it will take longer to thin out.