White smoke from exhaust on start up
Dec 22, 2015, 03:14 PM
#1
White smoke from exhaust on start up
Hey guys,
I have a built 2.0 liter 4g63 on my 9 with 4,000 miles since the rebuild. I noticed today I seem to be having an excessive amount of white smoke coming from the exhaust. I don't seem to have milky oil or coolant. I'm not low on either but i did notice a slight slow oil leak which looks to be from the oil pan gasket but I don't think it's related. When u drive the car around and park to look at the exhaust it's no white anymore. If I turn the car off and start it again a couple of minutes later it will smoke again... Did I already blow my head gasket? I have a 9 turbo tuned to 25 psi and I have head studs... The 9 turbo was used could be leaking oil I guess ... How can I clean the pcv to see if it's that ? I'm really worried I just spent a lot of money.
I have a built 2.0 liter 4g63 on my 9 with 4,000 miles since the rebuild. I noticed today I seem to be having an excessive amount of white smoke coming from the exhaust. I don't seem to have milky oil or coolant. I'm not low on either but i did notice a slight slow oil leak which looks to be from the oil pan gasket but I don't think it's related. When u drive the car around and park to look at the exhaust it's no white anymore. If I turn the car off and start it again a couple of minutes later it will smoke again... Did I already blow my head gasket? I have a 9 turbo tuned to 25 psi and I have head studs... The 9 turbo was used could be leaking oil I guess ... How can I clean the pcv to see if it's that ? I'm really worried I just spent a lot of money.
Dec 22, 2015, 06:03 PM
#2
As an update I inspected the pcv valve and there was oil on the hose it connects to... This is a sign of a bad pcv valve I believe. Also my new oil pan gasket leaking is probably another sign of a bad pcv valve. I'm going to order one now and see if it fixes it but would still appreciate input. Thanks.
Dec 22, 2015, 06:58 PM
#3
I'm a noob, literally just signed up on the site but now that that's out of the way...white smoke usually indicates coolant. The pcv just circulates oil and oil usually burns more of a bluish blackish color. Was the pcv valve changed during the rebuild? Also I would get someone to follow you while your driving around and see when the smoking starts and stops. As far as cleaning the pcv I don't know if you can. If the pcv doesn't fix it I would pressure test the coolant system just to make sure. Let me know if the pcv fixed it.
Dec 22, 2015, 07:37 PM
#4
Evolved Member
If you are sure that is where it is coming from, the pan leaking just means it needs to be resealed.
The PCV valve can be checked by shaking it. It should rattle. Then blow through it. Air should pass in one direction but the valve should seal in the other.
White smoke in winter is usually condensation. When gasoline and oxygen combine the products of combustion are CO2 and water. If you are convinced it isn't water condensing then I would suspect valve seals.
The PCV valve can be checked by shaking it. It should rattle. Then blow through it. Air should pass in one direction but the valve should seal in the other.
White smoke in winter is usually condensation. When gasoline and oxygen combine the products of combustion are CO2 and water. If you are convinced it isn't water condensing then I would suspect valve seals.
Dec 22, 2015, 07:46 PM
#6
To clarify the pcv valve was not replaced when the engine was rebuilt... The valve stem seals were and have 4,000 miles on them. A bad pcv valve can cause you to burn oil. Leaking oil pan gasket can also be caused by a bad pcv valve and that gasket has 4,000 miles on it. There is oil residue at the vacuum hose end that connects to the pcv valve and there isn't normally.
This just started today and wasn't like this yesterday, so it's not something like condensation. If I turn the car off and back on two minutes later with it still at operating temperature it will smoke again and it kind if smells weird. Condensation would be a once in the morning kind of thing.
I don't think it's coolant because there are no bubbles or milky weird colors in the coolant overflow and I'm not low on coolant. There is no weird colors in the oil either.
After researching since the original post I'm almost sure I have a sticking pcv valve and was hoping for more reassurance from you guys. I already ordered the pcv valve.
This just started today and wasn't like this yesterday, so it's not something like condensation. If I turn the car off and back on two minutes later with it still at operating temperature it will smoke again and it kind if smells weird. Condensation would be a once in the morning kind of thing.
I don't think it's coolant because there are no bubbles or milky weird colors in the coolant overflow and I'm not low on coolant. There is no weird colors in the oil either.
After researching since the original post I'm almost sure I have a sticking pcv valve and was hoping for more reassurance from you guys. I already ordered the pcv valve.
Dec 22, 2015, 08:01 PM
#7
Pcv can definitely cause you to burn oil but oil usually burns a blue or blackish color not whitish color that's why i was leaning towards coolant. And if it just started today then you most likely wouldn't be able to see that much coolant loss if it was the coolant. And the other two guys are right too it could just be condensation. Let us know if the PCV fixes it, hope it works!
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Dec 22, 2015, 08:35 PM
#8
Smoke looks gray. There is no more question of what it is ... It's oil. I Had to move the car so I did another start and there was literally droplets of oil shooting out of the tailpipe like there was so much the engine couldn't burn it all... No cat either so nothing to catch it... I felt no loss of power when I was test driving earlier so I don't think I have a loss of compression, but the amount of oil worries me... I'm leaving for MA in the morning for Christmas. I will post compression test results on Sunday the 27th when I get back and install the pcv valve if it is here by then.
Dec 22, 2015, 08:40 PM
#9
Evolved Member
The DSM I used to own started consuming oil. This car had the 4G63 engine and turbo. On startup, and especially on startup when hot but when the engine had been shut down for say 20 minutes, it would emit a big cloud. This looked like colorless smoke to me and I am not color blind. To see the blue color of burning oil I had to run the vehicle in a closed garage for 15 minutes. Then the blue color of the haze was visible. BTW, don't use a garage attached to a house and don't stay in the garage if trying this test. A new set of valve seals stopped the oil consumption and eliminated my smoke cloud.
The PCV valve is open when the intake manifold contains vacuum. When the manifold is pressurized by the turbo the PCV valve is closed. Otherwise the manifold would be blowing air into the crankcase. Even though you have a valve on order you need to do the above test on the old one to find or eliminate it as a possible cause. The valve cover has a second vent used for blowby when the PCV valve is closed. Sometimes on built engines with more than normal blowby this vent is undersized.
Any aftermarket PCV valve I have purchased leaked and leaked badly. Use only an OEM PCV valve.
The PCV valve is open when the intake manifold contains vacuum. When the manifold is pressurized by the turbo the PCV valve is closed. Otherwise the manifold would be blowing air into the crankcase. Even though you have a valve on order you need to do the above test on the old one to find or eliminate it as a possible cause. The valve cover has a second vent used for blowby when the PCV valve is closed. Sometimes on built engines with more than normal blowby this vent is undersized.
Any aftermarket PCV valve I have purchased leaked and leaked badly. Use only an OEM PCV valve.
Dec 23, 2015, 04:39 AM
#10
The DSM I used to own started consuming oil. This car had the 4G63 engine and turbo. On startup, and especially on startup when hot but when the engine had been shut down for say 20 minutes, it would emit a big cloud. This looked like colorless smoke to me and I am not color blind. To see the blue color of burning oil I had to run the vehicle in a closed garage for 15 minutes. Then the blue color of the haze was visible. BTW, don't use a garage attached to a house and don't stay in the garage if trying this test. A new set of valve seals stopped the oil consumption and eliminated my smoke cloud.
The PCV valve is open when the intake manifold contains vacuum. When the manifold is pressurized by the turbo the PCV valve is closed. Otherwise the manifold would be blowing air into the crankcase. Even though you have a valve on order you need to do the above test on the old one to find or eliminate it as a possible cause. The valve cover has a second vent used for blowby when the PCV valve is closed. Sometimes on built engines with more than normal blowby this vent is undersized.
Any aftermarket PCV valve I have purchased leaked and leaked badly. Use only an OEM PCV valve.
The PCV valve is open when the intake manifold contains vacuum. When the manifold is pressurized by the turbo the PCV valve is closed. Otherwise the manifold would be blowing air into the crankcase. Even though you have a valve on order you need to do the above test on the old one to find or eliminate it as a possible cause. The valve cover has a second vent used for blowby when the PCV valve is closed. Sometimes on built engines with more than normal blowby this vent is undersized.
Any aftermarket PCV valve I have purchased leaked and leaked badly. Use only an OEM PCV valve.
Dec 23, 2015, 07:02 AM
#11
I also hope I didn't overfill my oil... I did an oil change like 500 miles ago but I've been checking the dipstick and I only put 4 quarts in... The reason I bring this up is because I did my oil change in a bit of a slanted driveway and when I emptied the old oil into the used quarts I only had a total 3 quarts of old oil.... But every time I check my oil level when I turn off the motor I'm reading it just below the top line of the dipstick.
Last edited by Sheasta; Dec 23, 2015 at 07:40 AM.
Dec 23, 2015, 07:55 AM
#12
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Hey guys,
I have a built 2.0 liter 4g63 on my 9 with 4,000 miles since the rebuild. I noticed today I seem to be having an excessive amount of white smoke coming from the exhaust. I don't seem to have milky oil or coolant. I'm not low on either but i did notice a slight slow oil leak which looks to be from the oil pan gasket but I don't think it's related. When u drive the car around and park to look at the exhaust it's no white anymore. If I turn the car off and start it again a couple of minutes later it will smoke again... Did I already blow my head gasket? I have a 9 turbo tuned to 25 psi and I have head studs... The 9 turbo was used could be leaking oil I guess ... How can I clean the pcv to see if it's that ? I'm really worried I just spent a lot of money.
I have a built 2.0 liter 4g63 on my 9 with 4,000 miles since the rebuild. I noticed today I seem to be having an excessive amount of white smoke coming from the exhaust. I don't seem to have milky oil or coolant. I'm not low on either but i did notice a slight slow oil leak which looks to be from the oil pan gasket but I don't think it's related. When u drive the car around and park to look at the exhaust it's no white anymore. If I turn the car off and start it again a couple of minutes later it will smoke again... Did I already blow my head gasket? I have a 9 turbo tuned to 25 psi and I have head studs... The 9 turbo was used could be leaking oil I guess ... How can I clean the pcv to see if it's that ? I'm really worried I just spent a lot of money.
The purpose of the PCV Valve is to use intake vacuum to suck out excess combustion gases out of the crankcase, not to circulate oil. Pressurization of the crank case would be caused by a PCV that is stuck closed or by extreme blow by due to piston rings that cannot handle all that boost. Thus, rendering the PCV basically useless.
Changing the PCV is a cheap way to start eliminating problems. If it works, great. If it doesn't your aren't out a ton of money. Also, a bad PCV shouldn't have any effect of your Valve Stem seals. Just because they are new doesn't mean they are still good. It is possible that they may have been damaged during installation and/or the break in period.
My personal recommendation would be to start with the PCV and back off the turbo for daily use, save the monster boost for the weekends or occasional use.
Dec 23, 2015, 09:52 AM
#13
25 PSI of boost? Is this how you drive the car everyday? I don't know a lot about turbos but this seems kind of extreme for a daily driver. Sounds to me like you have blow by issues. How much oil is in the catch can? Was the engine built to be put under the added stress of 25 PSI of boost on a regular basis? Your turbo could also be leaking oil internally. Typically you shouldn't see much oil at the PCV unless you have overfilled the engine with oil or you have a lot of blow by.
The purpose of the PCV Valve is to use intake vacuum to suck out excess combustion gases out of the crankcase, not to circulate oil. Pressurization of the crank case would be caused by a PCV that is stuck closed or by extreme blow by due to piston rings that cannot handle all that boost. Thus, rendering the PCV basically useless.
Changing the PCV is a cheap way to start eliminating problems. If it works, great. If it doesn't your aren't out a ton of money. Also, a bad PCV shouldn't have any effect of your Valve Stem seals. Just because they are new doesn't mean they are still good. It is possible that they may have been damaged during installation and/or the break in period.
My personal recommendation would be to start with the PCV and back off the turbo for daily use, save the monster boost for the weekends or occasional use.
The purpose of the PCV Valve is to use intake vacuum to suck out excess combustion gases out of the crankcase, not to circulate oil. Pressurization of the crank case would be caused by a PCV that is stuck closed or by extreme blow by due to piston rings that cannot handle all that boost. Thus, rendering the PCV basically useless.
Changing the PCV is a cheap way to start eliminating problems. If it works, great. If it doesn't your aren't out a ton of money. Also, a bad PCV shouldn't have any effect of your Valve Stem seals. Just because they are new doesn't mean they are still good. It is possible that they may have been damaged during installation and/or the break in period.
My personal recommendation would be to start with the PCV and back off the turbo for daily use, save the monster boost for the weekends or occasional use.
Dec 23, 2015, 10:22 AM
#14
Evolved Member
In winter at startup the exhaust is cold and condenses water. Since the exhaust is lined with black carbon what blows out of the exhaust is black liquid that looks like oil. But you think something is wrong. So....
Bad PCV valve? Pull the valve and blow through it - simple. Too much oil? Pull the dipstick and check it. Simple. BTW, if oil is really being consumed, oil will disappear. Keep checking. Check the line to the catch can to make sure it is free flowing.
Finally, to actually gain some useful information, have a compression test run. If they find a bad cylinder, have a leak down test run to see where the air is going.
Bad PCV valve? Pull the valve and blow through it - simple. Too much oil? Pull the dipstick and check it. Simple. BTW, if oil is really being consumed, oil will disappear. Keep checking. Check the line to the catch can to make sure it is free flowing.
Finally, to actually gain some useful information, have a compression test run. If they find a bad cylinder, have a leak down test run to see where the air is going.
Dec 23, 2015, 11:15 AM
#15
^ this. honestly if it's white, keep an eye on coolant. If it's going somewhere you will notice. On my evo I had it leaking into the cylinder and never knew I even had an issue till it got worse and I lost enough coolant. Compression test revealed it further.