Road race reliability
Jan 3, 2016, 02:09 PM
#16
Thanks for all the advice guys - this has been massively helpful. Just FYI I am already near those power levels with E85, cams, springs, pump, injectors, exhaust, intake, intercooler, IC pipes, etc. I just blew the HG on the stock engine though, hence my post about reliability.
I'm speaking with Tom (tscomptuned) about engines, etc, too, so will report back with what I decide..
If anyone has more tips though, please post! Oil cooling and low boost seem to be the consensus though (which I agree with). I just need to find a turbo that can spool fast out of a corner, and push the CFM under low boost needed..
I have been exclusively road tracking for over 15 years (Lotus and Porsche) - so what I'm looking for now is a bit more power. I have the Evo and want to see what I can do with it, rather than go out and buy a stock "powerful" car like a GT3 or GTR (although I've really been wanting one of those Ariel Atom V8's!). It will be more for fun than competition, but I don't mind putting in the effort to make it reliable!
Thanks!
S.
I'm speaking with Tom (tscomptuned) about engines, etc, too, so will report back with what I decide..
If anyone has more tips though, please post! Oil cooling and low boost seem to be the consensus though (which I agree with). I just need to find a turbo that can spool fast out of a corner, and push the CFM under low boost needed..
I have been exclusively road tracking for over 15 years (Lotus and Porsche) - so what I'm looking for now is a bit more power. I have the Evo and want to see what I can do with it, rather than go out and buy a stock "powerful" car like a GT3 or GTR (although I've really been wanting one of those Ariel Atom V8's!). It will be more for fun than competition, but I don't mind putting in the effort to make it reliable!
Thanks!
S.
Jan 3, 2016, 03:09 PM
#17
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the problem with the fp green is that now that it comes with the stainless housing its awesome fast spool has been changed. i believe even in ball bearing its spooling no earlier than 4000rpm.
honestly if you have the money, something like an EFR 7163 sounds like exactly what your after or maybe even an 8374. i believe the 7163 has no issue doing 450-500whp with damn near stock like spool. both full race and cbrd offer kits
honestly if you have the money, something like an EFR 7163 sounds like exactly what your after or maybe even an 8374. i believe the 7163 has no issue doing 450-500whp with damn near stock like spool. both full race and cbrd offer kits
Jan 3, 2016, 03:13 PM
#18
You could consider a 2.0lr with a ts 3582, or a ss 3582 on a .63 tial hotside. I am running a 3586 .63 on a 2.0 and I get 20psi in 3rd about 4600rpm. For road racing I can run like 16-18psi and make very modest power about 420whp. At 32-33psi make 700whp. My closest track is a huge one and is great for horse power. I find my car the most fun in the 400whp area.
Jan 3, 2016, 06:03 PM
#19
thanks for all the advice guys - this has been massively helpful. Just fyi i am already near those power levels with e85, cams, springs, pump, injectors, exhaust, intake, intercooler, ic pipes, etc. I just blew the hg on the stock engine though, hence my post about reliability.
I'm speaking with tom (tscomptuned) about engines, etc, too, so will report back with what i decide..
If anyone has more tips though, please post! Oil cooling and low boost seem to be the consensus though (which i agree with). i just need to find a turbo that can spool fast out of a corner, and push the cfm under low boost needed..
i have been exclusively road tracking for over 15 years (lotus and porsche) - so what i'm looking for now is a bit more power. I have the evo and want to see what i can do with it, rather than go out and buy a stock "powerful" car like a gt3 or gtr (although i've really been wanting one of those ariel atom v8's!). It will be more for fun than competition, but i don't mind putting in the effort to make it reliable!
Thanks!
S.
I'm speaking with tom (tscomptuned) about engines, etc, too, so will report back with what i decide..
If anyone has more tips though, please post! Oil cooling and low boost seem to be the consensus though (which i agree with). i just need to find a turbo that can spool fast out of a corner, and push the cfm under low boost needed..
i have been exclusively road tracking for over 15 years (lotus and porsche) - so what i'm looking for now is a bit more power. I have the evo and want to see what i can do with it, rather than go out and buy a stock "powerful" car like a gt3 or gtr (although i've really been wanting one of those ariel atom v8's!). It will be more for fun than competition, but i don't mind putting in the effort to make it reliable!
Thanks!
S.
Jan 7, 2016, 12:02 PM
#21
Where do you live? Developing a working relationship with a local shop that you trust to work on your Evo is the key. That way, when something breaks or simply "doesn't sound right" you have a go to guy that knows your car, engine, tune, and driving needs.
Jan 7, 2016, 12:33 PM
#22
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Jan 12, 2016, 06:34 AM
#23
You could consider a 2.0lr with a ts 3582, or a ss 3582 on a .63 tial hotside. I am running a 3586 .63 on a 2.0 and I get 20psi in 3rd about 4600rpm. For road racing I can run like 16-18psi and make very modest power about 420whp. At 32-33psi make 700whp. My closest track is a huge one and is great for horse power. I find my car the most fun in the 400whp area.
we tested the .63, .8X, and 1.0X on our time attack car-
the .63 lost 30whp to the .8x and spooled the same, the 1.0 lost 100rpm of spool to the .8X and picked up 30 more whp-
Just food for thought- I hoped for great things with the decrease in A/R as far as response and so forth- and it simply choked it- this was on a billet 35R
cb
Jan 12, 2016, 08:27 AM
#25
Would oil starvation be an issue just from autocrossing? If so would adding some extra oil to get levels a little above the dip stick max mark be a good option to help a little? Also by doing that would it cause any stress issues from daily driving with a little extra oil? This is all on an evo with around 340whp(just bolt ons) on 10W-30 zrod oil.
Jan 12, 2016, 11:47 AM
#26
On stock-ish engines is much less likely to start but Ive always ran an extra 1/2qt. Once you get to race tires and built motors w/out balance shafts some work needs to be done to reduce oil pressure and reduce wasted oil sent to head (kiggly hla).
I think RJones and Grice (a little less sure on the latter) have both lost motors due to oil pressure.
I think RJones and Grice (a little less sure on the latter) have both lost motors due to oil pressure.
Jan 12, 2016, 12:24 PM
#27
Killerpenguin hit it with the engine. 2.1L LR will be the most reliable built engine for those power levels. That will be my plan this coming season. Biggest thing for reliability on track is using good fluids and keeping temps in check. Larger capacity radiator with a high cfm fan. Fan on the oil cooler.
Jan 12, 2016, 04:11 PM
#28
Evolving Member
Thread Starter
Right now I'm set on the following specs...
- 2.3L stroker
- Billet crank
- Forged rods/pistons
For oil, I'm looking at baffled pan vs dry sump. I want to keep A/C, so will have to go with an electric A/C compressor for the latter (since the dry sump pump sits in the A/C compressor position, typically). Dry sump pretty much doubles the cost for the build, but does provide the ultimate in oil reliability..
I'm getting the bottom end built by Tom @ tscomptuned - he originally tuned my engine, and people seem to love his engine builds
I'm throwing out the RC injectors for FIC's, and for turbo I'm not completely decided yet, but want fast spool and capable of flowing enough air for 500-600whp at a fairly low boost level.
Thanks!
S.
- 2.3L stroker
- Billet crank
- Forged rods/pistons
For oil, I'm looking at baffled pan vs dry sump. I want to keep A/C, so will have to go with an electric A/C compressor for the latter (since the dry sump pump sits in the A/C compressor position, typically). Dry sump pretty much doubles the cost for the build, but does provide the ultimate in oil reliability..
I'm getting the bottom end built by Tom @ tscomptuned - he originally tuned my engine, and people seem to love his engine builds
I'm throwing out the RC injectors for FIC's, and for turbo I'm not completely decided yet, but want fast spool and capable of flowing enough air for 500-600whp at a fairly low boost level.
Thanks!
S.
Jan 12, 2016, 04:17 PM
#29
EvoM Guru
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For that power level at low boost (assuming around or less than 25psi), you're going to need something in the range of a Xona rotor 78-64 or 71-64.
Jan 12, 2016, 10:21 PM
#30
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check out the racefab wet sump pan, theres a thread around here somewhere about it.
i dont like the decision to go 2.3L personally. it looks like your willing to spend the money to use good parts...i still think a 2.1 LR and EFR8374 would be an amazing and reliable setup, although it cost a little more due to the few extra bits needed to run the 4g64 block. hell, with an efr even a 2.0 LR would probably be fine. side loading and rod/stroke ratio are something worth thinking about if you really have reliability in mind imho.
i dont like the decision to go 2.3L personally. it looks like your willing to spend the money to use good parts...i still think a 2.1 LR and EFR8374 would be an amazing and reliable setup, although it cost a little more due to the few extra bits needed to run the 4g64 block. hell, with an efr even a 2.0 LR would probably be fine. side loading and rod/stroke ratio are something worth thinking about if you really have reliability in mind imho.
Last edited by killerpenguin21; Jan 12, 2016 at 10:26 PM.