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Road race reliability

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Old Jan 13, 2016, 12:38 AM
  #31  
Rom
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Originally Posted by killerpenguin21
check out the racefab wet sump pan, theres a thread around here somewhere about it.

i dont like the decision to go 2.3L personally. it looks like your willing to spend the money to use good parts...i still think a 2.1 LR and EFR8374 would be an amazing and reliable setup, although it cost a little more due to the few extra bits needed to run the 4g64 block. hell, with an efr even a 2.0 LR would probably be fine. side loading and rod/stroke ratio are something worth thinking about if you really have reliability in mind imho.
I went through the discussions with Tom, and ended up at the 2.3 because of my intended use. The extra low down torque will be really useful after hard braking in to a low speed corner (like turn 11 at Laguna!), and I don't need super high RPMs so the stroke limiting the rpm is not a big deal for me (limiting myself to about 7500-7800). Also, the extra displacement should allow me to build exhaust flow quicker, improving turbo spool. Also, the car will be daily driven, and the 2.3 will generally feel better on the street (because of the extra low torque).

I'll take a look at the race fab - looks interesting!

Thanks!

S.
Old Jan 13, 2016, 05:58 AM
  #32  
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Originally Posted by killerpenguin21
the problem with the fp green is that now that it comes with the stainless housing its awesome fast spool has been changed. i believe even in ball bearing its spooling no earlier than 4000rpm.

honestly if you have the money, something like an EFR 7163 sounds like exactly what your after or maybe even an 8374. i believe the 7163 has no issue doing 450-500whp with damn near stock like spool. both full race and cbrd offer kits
Wow glad I still have my old school green in my garage then, it made 350/350 at 21psi but it did that by 2500 rpms on my 2.4.
Old Jan 13, 2016, 06:32 AM
  #33  
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Originally Posted by killerpenguin21
check out the racefab wet sump pan, theres a thread around here somewhere about it.

i dont like the decision to go 2.3L personally. it looks like your willing to spend the money to use good parts...i still think a 2.1 LR and EFR8374 would be an amazing and reliable setup, although it cost a little more due to the few extra bits needed to run the 4g64 block. hell, with an efr even a 2.0 LR would probably be fine. side loading and rod/stroke ratio are something worth thinking about if you really have reliability in mind imho.
You can use the 4g63 for the 2.1, costs a bit more than the 4g64 since it takes a 94mm billet crank.
Old Jan 13, 2016, 07:41 AM
  #34  
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Originally Posted by Rom
I went through the discussions with Tom, and ended up at the 2.3 because of my intended use. The extra low down torque will be really useful after hard braking in to a low speed corner (like turn 11 at Laguna!), and I don't need super high RPMs so the stroke limiting the rpm is not a big deal for me (limiting myself to about 7500-7800). Also, the extra displacement should allow me to build exhaust flow quicker, improving turbo spool. Also, the car will be daily driven, and the 2.3 will generally feel better on the street (because of the extra low torque).

I'll take a look at the race fab - looks interesting!

Thanks!

S.
i respect tom and he does good work, but he is not a road racer. the cars i have seen him build are more focused on big power and 1/4 mile times.

just want you to be fully informed. i think there are a large group of us track guys that would vote against a 2.3 even though we would all probably enjoy the higher torque and faster spool. i think i said it before, but i personally saw 2 high end shop built 2.3's last 2 events or less in a time attack format, not HPDE long sessions.
Old Jan 13, 2016, 08:33 AM
  #35  
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Originally Posted by killerpenguin21
check out the racefab wet sump pan, theres a thread around here somewhere about it.

I dont like the decision to go 2.3L personally. it looks like your willing to spend the money to use good parts...i still think a 2.1 LR and EFR8374 would be an amazing and reliable setup, although it cost a little more due to the few extra bits needed to run the 4g64 block. hell, with an efr even a 2.0 LR would probably be fine. side loading and rod/stroke ratio are something worth thinking about if you really have reliability in mind imho.
I don't think those are what hurt the 2.3 setup. They're definitely a facotr, but I think it's piston speeds above 7500ish that are what hurt it, or maybe even in general. That being said, it'll still be reliable, it just might need a little more frequent refreshes. But, building true racecar, the motor should be getting gone through annually, at a minimum. Check ups prevent failures that ruin weekends.
Old Jan 13, 2016, 09:03 AM
  #36  
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yeah theres multiple factors, and considering you spend the majority of a track sesion at almost 5k or higher you just cant expect a reasonable lifespan out of a 2.3 imho.

i can tell you on my setup im often looking for MORE rpm to extend gears out, if i had to drop the rev limit 1000rpm, i would not be happy.
Old Jan 13, 2016, 09:12 AM
  #37  
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2.0 and 2.2 4g63's seem to have proven the most reliable for circuit track use. I have mainly heard of 2.1 being used for 1/4 mile racing for high rpm limits to spin huge turbos.
Old Apr 8, 2016, 08:15 PM
  #38  
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For anyone interested:

I found a California supplier for oil pans. The closest comparison would be the RaceFab pans. They will have the same features with exception of moving the oil pick up, the international shipping, wait, and cost LOL. They are not vendors, so i won't post pricing, options, etc. Just letting everyone know. PM me if you are interested.
Old Apr 9, 2016, 08:04 AM
  #39  
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I'm so glad you bumped this thread. I've been looking for a do it all build that can reliably be beaten on for extended periods of time and was looking at a 2.4.

A 2.4 LR hasn't been mentioned here. Would it be worth it to sacrifice spool and go 2.1 to have the most reliable setup? I do not have a block for a core but my stock crank might actually be fine because I just broke a rod.
Old Apr 9, 2016, 11:08 AM
  #40  
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Put a 94mm crank with 159mm rods in the 2.4 block. You'll get a 2.235L motor that will be plenty reliable.
Old Apr 9, 2016, 11:44 AM
  #41  
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Originally Posted by letsgetthisdone
Put a 94mm crank with 159mm rods in the 2.4 block. You'll get a 2.235L motor that will be plenty reliable.
Think it would be worth the added cost if my stock crank is good?
Old Apr 9, 2016, 05:32 PM
  #42  
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Originally Posted by ridenrunwv
Think it would be worth the added cost if my stock crank is good?
Yes, it's an extra 150cc of displacement.
Old Apr 9, 2016, 10:40 PM
  #43  
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I personally will be adding a swirlpot to help with cooling and increase the amount of coolant in the system. 2.3's never stand the durability test for road course stuff. Personally i'm sticking with 2.0L just to play it safe harmonics wise.
Old Apr 9, 2016, 10:59 PM
  #44  
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Originally Posted by Grimgrak
I personally will be adding a swirlpot to help with cooling and increase the amount of coolant in the system. 2.3's never stand the durability test for road course stuff. Personally i'm sticking with 2.0L just to play it safe harmonics wise.
i had the same thoughts. I heavily considered a 2.3 for road course work. I almost bit the bullet. The 2.0 just seemed to make the most sense. I didn't feel it was necessary.
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