Rom

Hey all,

Since my engine is having issues, I'm contemplating how much more to spend on the Evo.. I need to have a completely reliable road racer that will survive lap after lap of WOT acceleration, hard braking, WOT to the next corner, etc - at least 30mins of punishment at a time. The car also has to be civilized on the road - feeling as "OEM" as possible on the street.

Seems that a significant number of people who modify their Evo's here do drag racing which is an entirely different profile to endurance road racing (especially on technical courses like Laguna Seca, Willow Springs short track, etc).

All I want is a max of 500WHP/450WTQ so I'm not going for insane power. I'm seriously considering a built engine (e.g. Buschur 2.3RPM with stage 3 head), but is there an inherent issue with trying to get a reliable road race 500WHP engine using the 4G63? I already have the Shep built 600WHP 6-speed, and KWv3 coilovers (and all the other stuff in my signature).. Other than differentials and driveshafts, a built engine would probably be the last major thing needed. Just want to make sure I'm not chasing an unachievable dream.

Thanks!

S.

Jonno99

What class are you going to race in and what mods are they going to allow you to have?

Rom

Oh, not competing with this car (hence the daily drive aspect) - so any mods are fine. I would compete with my other cars.

This car will likely only ever see non-competitive track days, but I drive in the advanced groups so am probably still doing 80-90% "race speeds".

Thanks!

S.

Jonno99

Other serous trackers will probably chime in here but for me, I got my Evo mainly for tracking and canyon runs so far I've done 4 and will be down for another 6 to 8 this year. I'm running basic mods at around 320 HP, Im in the advanced sessions because I think they are safer lol, most of the time I'm mixing it with hot hatches like golf r, R32s, boxsters, etc which is alot of fun as my mates roll in that space and I can beat on it all day if I was to upspec to a built Block with 400 to 500hp I'd be chasing the big bangers like porsches and ferraries with probable reliability issues with rebuilds more regular, so for me the highest fun factor is beating it up with my mates. If your ready to step up and play with the big boys yes push it out to 400 with e85, injectors,
S2s, beehives, pump, fp red, head studs, IC and have some fun if you spin a bearing do your built block then and go to 500.

evo8426

iTrader: (27)

To be reliable at that power skip all stock frame type turbos and run a big turbo such as an FP 3586 with the Buschur 2.3RPM. You won't have to push the car nearly as hard to get the power level you find interesting.

Turndown

iTrader: (2)

5-600 seems to be the sweet spot for the Evo between street ability and reliability from what I've seen/heard so far... With that said the more you mod and the harder you drive your car the less reliable it can be. Obviously using quality parts, as you already have been doing, will net the best results.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Call the experts at English racing & tell them what you want in a race engine

IzzyRS

iTrader: (8)

Oiling can become an issue, so you should look into this pan or other ways to control the oil.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/mo...-sump-pan.html

To push 450tq time and time again on the track will most likely require a nice built engine. You should contact a shop that has experience with road racing and discuss your goals.
Maybe post this question in the Motorsports section and see if you can get more help.

sssr20det510

Make sure you put In a tranny cooler with pump if you are road racing the 6 speed

awhit17

iTrader: (6)

I agree that you will spend your money much more wisely by investing in a full frame turbo, you won't have to fight the backpressure created by the relatively small MHI exhaust housing.

I think a built motor by a reputable shop with a Borg Warner EFR 8374 would be a killer motor combo for your needs

RS200

iTrader: (1)

Heat management is the key to any race car. You need your oiling reliable and cool (big cooler, no restrictions, big capacity, a good scraper/baffle/windage tray and ventilation). The cooling system needs to be properly ducted, proper thermostat, and exit routes for heat from the radiator. Wrap the exhaust very well because it's the major source of heat in the engine bay. Similarly, the intercooler needs help from proper ducting to keep IATs low. The turbo should be well within its efficiency to keep heat low for the air flow produced and boost/timing low to reduce combustion temps. No need to mention braking ducts, as that is your safety.

Sheasta

iTrader: (7)

I think it depends if you want to run a bigger turbo to get to your power goals for reliability/not maxing out your setup, or you want less turbo lag. I'd personally run a built block with a smaller turbo on E85 or race gas with higher boost so it spools faster for the track.

You're going to need a built block for reliability at your desired power level but like stated above you could run E85 on the stock 9 turbo to get like 400 awhp until you need or feel like dropping $$$ on a built block.

killerpenguin21

iTrader: (20)

this is all from what ive seen from my track friends who HEAVILY track their evos.

- dont even think about a 2.3
- one car went through 2 built motors (partially because of a ****ty turbo) and wound up back on a new oem block
-one car went through 3 built motors last season, 2 by mainstream shops and wound up back on an oem block
-the only built motor that has had zero issues that im aware of out of our region is i belive a 2.1L (possibly a 2.2 i cant remember)

all of the above were running in the 380 to 400whp range. as was mentioned oiling is key. ive got around 72k miles on my motor about 2500 of which are track with stock turbo and basic bolt ons and a kiggly HLA making 350-375whp. i have had ZERO issues (knock on wood), i run amsoil 10w40 high zinc and change after every track weekend. My oil analysis reports have looked pretty good, i had one come back with slightly elevated lead but it went back to normal on the next sample.

I think if you want 500whp to last 30 minute sessions, you need to massively over build EVERYTHING. big coolers, big turbo at LOW boost etc. most evos im aware of running in that power level are time attack cars that run sessions of less than 5 laps.

Dallas J

iTrader: (1)

500 reliable track HP is not trivial. This is one of those scenarios that if you have to ask how to make it reliable, you haven't broken enough parts to do it. Much better off turning down power at the track and cranking it up for street fun or drag use.


I personally would set up a button for high boost down the straights if you need/want and give the motor a break on the corners. Especially if you don't have a drysump or lots of work to fix inherent oiling issues on the evo.

Rom

Thanks for all the advice guys - this has been massively helpful. Just FYI I am already near those power levels with E85, cams, springs, pump, injectors, exhaust, intake, intercooler, IC pipes, etc. I just blew the HG on the stock engine though, hence my post about reliability.

I'm speaking with Tom (tscomptuned) about engines, etc, too, so will report back with what I decide..

If anyone has more tips though, please post! Oil cooling and low boost seem to be the consensus though (which I agree with). I just need to find a turbo that can spool fast out of a corner, and push the CFM under low boost needed..

I have been exclusively road tracking for over 15 years (Lotus and Porsche) - so what I'm looking for now is a bit more power. I have the Evo and want to see what I can do with it, rather than go out and buy a stock "powerful" car like a GT3 or GTR (although I've really been wanting one of those Ariel Atom V8's!). It will be more for fun than competition, but I don't mind putting in the effort to make it reliable!

Thanks!

S.