Hesitation, Stuttering, Bad Fuel Pump???
#1
Hesitation, Stuttering, Bad Fuel Pump???
Need some help. 2006 Evo 9
Car was tuned on SD from Boosted Tuning with most bolt-on including....
-4 in SD intake
-FIC 1120cc
-walbro 255
-Muse O2 Dump
-Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe
-Tomei 270 Pro Cams
-Grimmspeed 3 Port Boost
-Ported intake and exhaust manifold
-65mm Tb
-3.5" ets fmic with stock route piping and licp
Since then I've added...
Fp black jb
Arp headstuds
Ported head from curt brown
Put on high flow cat to take out test pipe
Double 255 walbro pump but didn't hook up the 2nd pump on Hobbs switch. Waiting on tune with tscomp to do so.
Car was running to make sure everything was okay waiting for retune. Been driving on this for a few weeks then this happened...
This started to happen yesterday after a 3rd gear wot pull. Car all of a sudden lost power. Rpm fluctuating and surging. Was not able to drive but managed to pull out of traffic to a parking spot and then it dies. Tried to restart car but no luck. Leave key on then restart and was able to start it. Idle was okay so tried to drive home as I was about 10 blocks away. Couldn't even make it to the end of the block and it died again. Car would not start back up. Had to wait with key on again. Then did the same thing until I got car home. I thought it was fuel pump so I checked the pump. Took it out of the basket and gave it direct 12v and it's working fine. Checked fuel power and ground and it's okay. I know engine has to crank for the fuel pump to get power but I was only getting 12v for 1 sec then it stayed around 11v. Put in my old 255 fuel pump and was able to drive it around thinking the problem was fixed but then it happened again . So I drove car home and now asking for help. What do you guys think? Maybe bad cam sensor? Which one does the ecm uses for the fuel pump signal?
Car was tuned on SD from Boosted Tuning with most bolt-on including....
-4 in SD intake
-FIC 1120cc
-walbro 255
-Muse O2 Dump
-Turbo Back Exhaust with Test Pipe
-Tomei 270 Pro Cams
-Grimmspeed 3 Port Boost
-Ported intake and exhaust manifold
-65mm Tb
-3.5" ets fmic with stock route piping and licp
Since then I've added...
Fp black jb
Arp headstuds
Ported head from curt brown
Put on high flow cat to take out test pipe
Double 255 walbro pump but didn't hook up the 2nd pump on Hobbs switch. Waiting on tune with tscomp to do so.
Car was running to make sure everything was okay waiting for retune. Been driving on this for a few weeks then this happened...
This started to happen yesterday after a 3rd gear wot pull. Car all of a sudden lost power. Rpm fluctuating and surging. Was not able to drive but managed to pull out of traffic to a parking spot and then it dies. Tried to restart car but no luck. Leave key on then restart and was able to start it. Idle was okay so tried to drive home as I was about 10 blocks away. Couldn't even make it to the end of the block and it died again. Car would not start back up. Had to wait with key on again. Then did the same thing until I got car home. I thought it was fuel pump so I checked the pump. Took it out of the basket and gave it direct 12v and it's working fine. Checked fuel power and ground and it's okay. I know engine has to crank for the fuel pump to get power but I was only getting 12v for 1 sec then it stayed around 11v. Put in my old 255 fuel pump and was able to drive it around thinking the problem was fixed but then it happened again . So I drove car home and now asking for help. What do you guys think? Maybe bad cam sensor? Which one does the ecm uses for the fuel pump signal?
#3
Was thinking about that as well. Fuel pumps from the double pumper was brand new. The one I got in there now as the primary was used for about 3 months ago but I rarely drove the car. Is there a way to test the map sensor? Maybe do a log and that should tell but when it's fluctuating like that the boost doesn't hold either so don't know if the log will show the bad sensor. Thanks for replying back. Hope when I figure this one out it can help others as well....
#5
Evolved Member
iTrader: (8)
Was thinking about that as well. Fuel pumps from the double pumper was brand new. The one I got in there now as the primary was used for about 3 months ago but I rarely drove the car. Is there a way to test the map sensor? Maybe do a log and that should tell but when it's fluctuating like that the boost doesn't hold either so don't know if the log will show the bad sensor. Thanks for replying back. Hope when I figure this one out it can help others as well....
#7
I know I'm not suppose to drive it hard and I know it needed a retune but the car was running fine even after the bigger turbo. I did push it once in awhile to make sure everything was working okay before the retune. But now I have encountered this issue. I will see if I can get another 4 bar sensor.
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#9
Evolving Member
iTrader: (7)
Do you have wideband o2 sensor ? What's your afr looking like as the cars stuttering/stalling?
I'm pretty sure when they fail they fail with unrealistic readings hence the car running like crap and stalling. Should be able to check it on evoscan.
Last edited by Sheasta; Jan 2, 2016 at 07:17 PM.
#10
At idle it usually stays at 14.6-9 but when I decel it would read very lean. After putting the used 255 in it didn't go super lean but after a few runs it did the same and started to hesitate and wanted to stall. I was able to drive it without or with little boost to get home. I thought the fuel pump fixed the problem but I was happy too soon. I just ordered a new omni 4 bat with tscomp. Hopefully it will be here soon so I can see if that fixes it. Anymore input would be great. I did check the fuses but I would like to know where is the power source for the primary fuel pump so I can test voltage output from there. It shouldn't be at 11v. I don't think that is correct. But I do know after searching that the evo doesn't prime the fuel pump with key on. It gets signal from cam sensor to the ecm which supplies power to the fuel pump.
#11
Evolving Member
iTrader: (1)
Sorry half of my post got deleted when i posted about the MAP sensor, yes good call on the new 4bar, my money is on the map sensor, they have a tendancy to fail even at low milage. I dont think your issue is fuel, if the fuse was bad it wouldn't supply any voltage to your pump. There can however be resistance on the wires of the pump somewhere, but just start with the MAP sensor first.
#15
I do not have a catch can installed and I will be running e85 with tscomp ' fitronic flex fuel on the stock 9 ecu. Have fic2150 waiting to install when I get the base map for it. That's when I will hook up the 2nd fuel pump. Waiting for the map sensor. Hope that is it but I do want to figure out where is the stock fuel pump power source coming from so I can fix that 11v issue. Maybe when it's running from the alternator it will be more than the 11v cranking voltage???