Evo clutch job - First go-around
Jan 9, 2016, 06:25 PM
#1
Evo clutch job - First go-around
Shout out to all the homies who are doing this job in the driveway... and better yet not taking the front subframe out 
I did this on the lift today, it kept me busy into the early afternoon.
Did this today to fix a clutch drag issue, which ended up being a few different things. The throwout bearing was bad, the shaft that the clutch fork pivots on had wear, the cage was barely holding the big C-clip that holds it to the pressure plate, one of the wave springs was broken, and the bushings inside the clutch fork were showing signs of wear. Then I decided to inspect the clutch itself while I was in there, and that will need to be replaced in the next few weeks... Ugh. Not to mention when I went to remove the subframe, the two front studs decided to spin. Great... Luckily, I was able to heat up the nut enough, and pulse the impact gun to finally get them free. Thank God. The previous owner or tech working on this car had left the rear engine mount loose, had to re-tap and clean the bolts up.
On the upside, by cleaning everything up and deburring the shaft for the clutch fork, adding an ACT monoloc, and changing the TOB, no more clutch drag. Downside... Time to drop another $1,500 into it for a brand new twin disc and all the associated OEM crap I found that I will be needing as of this morning!
First time around - 5 and a half hours total, but also had to fix a bunch of issues along the way. Next time will be much easier between having experience, and also repairing some things today that will lead to less problems down the road. Just glad I work at a shop and have access to my lift on my days off, as well as all the other shop equipment that most average guys don't have.
I did this on the lift today, it kept me busy into the early afternoon.Did this today to fix a clutch drag issue, which ended up being a few different things. The throwout bearing was bad, the shaft that the clutch fork pivots on had wear, the cage was barely holding the big C-clip that holds it to the pressure plate, one of the wave springs was broken, and the bushings inside the clutch fork were showing signs of wear. Then I decided to inspect the clutch itself while I was in there, and that will need to be replaced in the next few weeks... Ugh. Not to mention when I went to remove the subframe, the two front studs decided to spin. Great... Luckily, I was able to heat up the nut enough, and pulse the impact gun to finally get them free. Thank God. The previous owner or tech working on this car had left the rear engine mount loose, had to re-tap and clean the bolts up.
On the upside, by cleaning everything up and deburring the shaft for the clutch fork, adding an ACT monoloc, and changing the TOB, no more clutch drag. Downside... Time to drop another $1,500 into it for a brand new twin disc and all the associated OEM crap I found that I will be needing as of this morning!
First time around - 5 and a half hours total, but also had to fix a bunch of issues along the way. Next time will be much easier between having experience, and also repairing some things today that will lead to less problems down the road. Just glad I work at a shop and have access to my lift on my days off, as well as all the other shop equipment that most average guys don't have.
Jan 12, 2016, 08:43 AM
#4
oh man I bet I can do it faster on the ground then on a lift. I wouldn't know what to do! I don't remove any sub frame, or radiator or the transfer case. It took me like 3 hours to take it out and 3.5 to get it back in with a buddy to help lift and guide. 
its so much fun 
its so much fun
Jan 12, 2016, 09:13 AM
#5
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
5 hours is about how long it takes me. Done it 4-5 times now on a few cars. I have a lift, trans jack, engine support, etc. Dropping the subframe makes it so easy to get it out of the car once you're at that point. No maneuvering the trans around it, the trans just comes right out.
Jan 12, 2016, 10:37 AM
#7
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
Yes, I get an alignment done.
Trending Topics
Jan 12, 2016, 12:42 PM
#9
EvoM Guru
iTrader: (1)
It's 4 bolts, and 2 nuts under the car, and 1 bolt under the dash where steering column attaches to the rack. Couldn't be much easier.
Jan 12, 2016, 01:54 PM
#11
Congrats! Done it three times on the garage floor using hand tools up to a breaker bar.
I probably could have gotten away with less scuffs on the brand new Shep trans paint if I dropped the sub-frame.... but I left it in haha. When I get frustrated with the angle of the jack, I rest the trans on my chest and bench it up into place. Always impresses the girl friends haha.
Did the same thing with the 240sx....but that was much dirtier.
-pal215
I probably could have gotten away with less scuffs on the brand new Shep trans paint if I dropped the sub-frame.... but I left it in haha. When I get frustrated with the angle of the jack, I rest the trans on my chest and bench it up into place. Always impresses the girl friends haha.
Did the same thing with the 240sx....but that was much dirtier.
-pal215
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
m0nkie
Evo X Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
1
May 23, 2010 04:37 PM
goofygrin
Evo X Engine / Turbo / Drivetrain
15
Mar 10, 2009 08:43 PM