I use Boosted Tuning. it's all via email. super easy, though e-tuning requires a widband/serial adapter, tactrix cable, EcuFlash, and EvoScan.
or
you can do a Cobb Access Port which costs more but is far more simple. it's not as detailed or full of options as EcuFlash, but it will get your car running right.

 

Just trying to help you from the other side of the world..
I'd get a tuner to help you get it running and watch the "how to tune an evo" series as well as reading up. Plenty of material out there
Swap back to gas since its easier to fire off. You don't want to load the engine up with ethanol and let it sit. You may also want to smell/check the oil incase its gotten contaminated while cranking it so much. Change it if need be.
Leakdown test incase something is off in the valvetrain/timing and air is leaking out both sides of the engine. The lifters should have some clearance to function properly.
Hope that helps.

 

Do this. Its your best option and honestly its a great one.

 

You are not getting enough fuel. Try what french said. that will stop it dead.

 

+1 on reccomending Tscompusa that dude knows his ****

 

Update: My new MAF sensor arrived today and I fitted it this afternoon, the car will start and idle like crap, shakes etc and as soon as you even look at the throttle, it dies. I do have a wideband fitted to the car and it is running super super lean.

What is interesting though is if I can keep it running and then remove the MAF sensor plug, the car runs so much better and the AFRs come back down much closer to what I would expect to see.

I thought maybe because I have gone from a 2.5" intake to a 4" that it could be flowing too much for the sensor so I cut some cardboard and had a friend use it to block the MAF to restrict flow and it actually helped the car run better.

I am now thinking that I am flowing too much air for the MAF, is this something that happens?

The car is also showing P0110, P0105 & P0110 codes which all relate to the MAF

I think out of necessity I will get in touch with Tcomp or Boosted Tuning

The expense isn't a huge issue but what is going to give a better result, Evoscan or access port?

EDIT: I see COBB only do the Evo 10, cancel that question

 

the MAF only flows as much air as goes through. cardboard won't do anything.

was the car tuned before to where the MAF scalings were changed? we can only say it so many times: HAVE A TUNER LOOK AT YOUR CAR. if the tune is off, no amount of swapping parts will help short of putting it back to stock and using a new ECU.

if the tune is off, you are wasting your time chasing the problem.

COBB is a self-contained plug-and-play setup. your car can be tuned on that and it's a viable option for the average consumer.

some of us prefer advanced features and a bit more control so we go with Open Source stuff. i'm pretty sure a Tactrix cable and EvoScan subscription are cheaper than the COBB Access Port.

 

The car has not been tuned so it shouldn't be anything like that in terms of the tune being off, totally stock maps as far as I know.

Like I was saying above, the second the MAF is connected, it leans right out and dies, unplug the MAF and it works.

If the MAF is connected and I heavily reduce the flow to the MAF by blocking it off then it will run so I am out of ideas other than there is too much airflow for the MAF.

I did get some OBD readings while it was "running" and the vacuum/boost pressure was all over the place

 

Gotta figure out if vacuum is erratic because idle is bad or the other way around.

 

I did find a couple of hoses that were loose and fixed them all up but that hasn't made a difference. I thought maybe the pressure sensor was faulty but the car then runs ok without the MAF sensor plugged in, that's what I can't get past.

I might have to take a video, but I've been able to start it with the MAF, unplug it and then keep the revs up and everything reads fine, AFR, pressure etc and then even if I keep the revs up it will die as soon as the MAF is plugged in, the wideband reads 22.4, the vacuum jumps around and then it dies slowly and it throws errors P0100, P0105, P0110 so I can't help but think the MAF is somehow the key here

 

Make sure all of your connectors are hooked up too like cool and tps, etc.

 

Coolant

 

For f!cks sake a stock tune WILL not run well with cams. Go get the damn thing tuned.

The Eason it rich end up when you unplug the MAF is because the ECU goes into a sort of "limp mode" and runs the car off of a known SAFE (rich) fueling strategy. Stop dicking around with parts swapping and get the car tuned. Or put the stock cams back in it.

 

All the mods you have done (except fuel pump) need a major tune done. This should be a given.

Question I must raise is how do you live so far away form a tuner but have access to E85????

 

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