Ok guys I need some advice from you guys. I might already have my answer but I would like to know from you guys if you have ever experienced this issue that I am having. With that being out there lets begin.

So first off, I recently had my motor rebuilt. Not because of any previous damage but to reinforce it. Recently noticed that when I turn the car over my turbo timer would like flicker for a little until the car was fully on. Thought it was strange but the car started so I left it alone.

Fast forward to yesterday, I was driving home from work and out of no where my radio just turned off on my and reset itself. It came back on without me having to do anything. Thought it was odd but I kept driving. Got closer to the house and the car slightly bucked but nothing else came about it.

Drove the car into work today and when getting close to my job the radio turned off and on again. Then the whole entire car felt like it reset itself. It liked turned off and turned back on and all the lights on the dash came on for 1 sec and then turned back off. Couldn't figure it out. Ran to get some lunch and then the car just completely turned off on me all together. I couldn't get it to start at all. I can get all lights in the car to turn on plus the headlights but when I put the key in and turn over absolutely nothing happens. No lights on the dash at all.

Pulled the car over and popped the hood and noticed on my positive post there is a crack in it. I wiggled wires around and got it to start again but drove maybe 500 ft and it turned off again. Do you guys think or know if there is a crack in the terminal will it prevent me from turning the car on. The post was as tight as I could get it but still had wiggle room in it. Its just weird that I am getting power to all the lights and what not but I cant get the car to start at times and the reset/buck of the car has me worried. I would love to hear your input. Thanks guys.

 

I'd say fix the problem you found. Maybe that will fix it or maybe it is something else but that still needs to be fixed.

 

Alright so I changed out the post and car starts up but after about 4 mins it turns off. Happened twice. I am lost now. Going to get battery tested just for ****s and giggles but I don't know what else it can be.

 

I've had it happen to me twice where a battery post cracked inside the battery - probably due to me being to rough when tightening the battery post bolts. That, or too many rough roads. If it is a dead battery it probably will crank slow or refuse to crank.

A guy with a Mustang kept having his engine quit just like you. He said at the same time the security light would come on. Well the ECU reads the key so that told me the computer was stopping. Why would the computer stop - answer, no power. I told him to go clean his grounds and that fixed it.

 

Well the post is not what broke, it was the piece that slides over it. At first i wasn't getting any power to my dash at all. I started it twice today but both times after a few minutes it would just die. obviously it was in the on position so it would just shut off and all the lights would come on as if i was about to start it. I am not getting any indications of anything else. No engine light, no battery light, nothing. It just shuts off. The only other thing that i haven't mentioned yet is the cars idle is pretty off. My idle fluctuates at idle between 200-400 rpm. It just bounces up and down slightly. My AFR also goes from 13.5 or so up to about 16.3. I don't know if the idle will cause the car to just shut off. It doesn't dip down like its about to shut off. It just completly shuts off.

 

Well, there's this..........

https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...ied-fixed.html

 

Thanks man. I have read that before but my issues is/was absolutely no power to the dash area at all. I mean nothing. Not even an attempt to start. Like power was getting killed to the ignition switch while attempting to start. I think my turbo times has something to do with it, even though its been installed for many many years but we will see. In the process of pulling that and my alarm system out to see if that fixes my issue.

 

Check fuses, verify your alternator is working by measuring the voltage at the battery terminals. It should be 12+ volts when the car is off and 14+ when it is running.

 

Do you have a volt meter?
Have you tested the voltage between the battery and your wiring?
Have you tested the negative wires for connectivity?
Have you modified or alter any of your wiring?
Maybe your battery is going out?

you will need a voltmeter and some patience to fix your electrical problem.

 

I have a super cheap volt meter but I am not an expert with measuring out voltage. I have not modified any wiring at all. I actually just finished removing my turbo timer and aftermarket alarm system. Started the car today and ran for about 5 minutes. I lost all power again to the dash so I went to the engine bay and as soon as I opened up the fuse box cover I got power back. Turned it back on, started playing with some of the fuses and lost power again. wiggled the fuse box some more and got power back. So I narrowed it down to something related to the fuse box but don't know what.

I looked at all the fuses and they look fine but I will test them out to verify. The only other thing I can think of is a wire is messed up in the fuse box or the ECU fuse going bad? At least I have a better starting point, just upset that there are about 30 majillion wires near the fuse box.

 

Hey guys. So I have a little update to my situation to see if anyone can help me out further. I will try to be as descriptive as possible.

So I went to a shop so I can get a custom catch can setup made. As I was leaving I go to start the car and the car just clicked but nothing happened. Dash lights dimmed some and then came back. Somehow after driving for 30 minutes and letting the car sit for roughly 1 hour I lost all battery juice. Or so I thought.

I get home after a jump start and before I turn off the car I pull out my multimeter and check the battery while the car is running. I was reading anywhere from 11.X volts up to 14.6 volts. The readings were just fluctuating all over the place. I have a pioneer headunit that has the built in volt gauge which I know is not the most accurate, and that was fluctuating between 13.6 up to 14.6

Today I go the garage to see what I can find and I test my battery with the multimeter and with power off the battery reads 12.6. I try to start the car and just a click again. Rush to the battery to test it and it reads from 6volts up to 11.6 and then out of no where I get a rush of power back and its back to 12.6. It seems whenever I try to start the battery just drains itself momentarily and then after a few seconds all the power comes back.

I am thinking maybe its the voltage regulator in the alternator that is possibly going out or already out. The only modification I have to my wiring harness now that I think about it is for my radiator fan. I was dumb and sold my stock setup with everything included so I got rid of the fan regulator or whatever its called. The grey block with the spikes on it. So I have the wires hardwired straight in so when I turn the key over my fan automatically kicks in. I have check those connections over and over and they are solid in place and nothing is touching them to be grounded or anything. I have gone over all grounds in the engine bay and they are all connected, solid, and corrosion free. Please give insight.

 

I think you should start with the basics. If you were able to jumpstart the car that means the battery is not providing the cranking amp to the starter. Either recharge the battery and see if you can start the car or not. Then if the battery is good and is able to hold charge you can check the battery voltage with car runing. It should be around 14v. I think you might have a defective battery.

 

Its just weird that when the car is off, the battery has the juice to crank but when I crank nothing happens. Voltage at the battery drops and after a few seconds then voltage at the battery is good again. I will get the battery tested regardless but I don't know if that is the culprit. I had it tested before and it checked good

 

That is exactly how a defective battery acts. Eventho the voltage checks good but when you put a good load like the starter on it, it will not give the needed amps to turn the starter. That's load testing the battery and to me it just failed. Another thing is you are able to jump start the car so that's another sign of battery not providing the amps. Good luck and keep us posted.

 

Buy a battery