Evo_Goodness

No evap codes with this but it only has like 15 miles on it so far not sure how long an evap code would take to trigger no leaks I got these screws from my work I work for a huge machine shop so asked our mechanic at work to look at it he grabbed these and set the clutch in a power drill to 80 foot pounds of torque.
And he drove them in we did pre drill the holes a little smaller he laid a big magnet in the opening to catch as much as we could nothing fell in the tank.
It's definitely not moving in anyway or form we sealed it with fuel and oils safe gasket maker all the way around on the black ring for extra insurance. I'll probably just leave it as is if it works why mess with it at this point.

And yes I agree we made need a sub forum for this my studs had no chance even with a day of PB blasting them the car did live 2 years in New York so ya I'm sure that's what caused the rust on top of it then Washington then Oregon to me OR and WA use no salt on the roads.


Now I just need to get my tune dialed in on my old stock pump at WOT at 6000 rpm I was leaning out to 12.9 ish yikes now I'm pegged at 10.0 in WOT to redline lol

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

I have a lot experience w/fastener coatings such as Cad / Zinc etc. If this is a zinc coated metal screw, rust is a concern on the threaded tail. That zinc coating will likely not last

Rust would be my concern w/this fix. A SST screw may have been a better choice

Evo_Goodness

Oh good thought I may swap them out at work on Tuesday we have every screw nut bolt fastener under the sun we went with heat treated hardened fasteners so we could really torque it down I'll ask our maintenance mechanic guy at work.

Thanks for pointing that out I know it's not the most conventional way of fixing it but when your car is 12 years old stuff like this happens if it holds I'll leave it if I have problems out comes the gas tank this winter