Evo_Goodness

So long story short my stock evo 8 pump was whining bad under boost and I started running really lean. I got my new pump in today a DW200 went to take out my old pump and the 6 nuts the 8mm ones where rusted bad like really bad so I got PB blaster soaked them for like 12 hours went to take off the first one and it snapped...

So I figure okay no biggie I can live with out one PB blasted them again and waited a few more hours but to my surprise 5 of the 6 just broke off no excessive force I know they are not very tight so I now have one stud with one nut on it...

And I need my car for work on Monday so anyone have any good ideas how to mount this thing down. I am at a loss there is really no room to tap new studs I can't drop the fuel tank I am at a loss has anyone ever seen this before I'll try to post a pic up so you guys can see it

Evo_Goodness

Sorry about the angle guys I just have no clue what I'm going to do and am confused why it seems like people say they come off easy for them but not me lol story of my life

Evo_Goodness

I am thinking I'm just going to punch new holes for it anyone have any other ideas to chime In ?

Bhsj13

aww mann, i believe those bolt into the fuel tank. might have to pull tank man.

gsrboi80

iTrader: (38)

Ooof if it looks like that from the top the whole entire tank is going to be badly rusted along with the fuel lines and brake lines as well.

You're going to be in for a bit of a surprise when you drop that tank. I can almost guarantee you have through rust where the rear subframe bolts into the unibody as well as in the frame rails if you follow them back also.

It can all be fixed but it won't be cheap

Evo_Goodness

Ya what I figured has me worried but I can't drop the tank right now it's just not an option for me so I'm going to have to figure out how to fix this I mean it's practically thin sheet metal. It's held down by a couple inch pounds. I just need to get it back on the road and I'll pull the tank this winter when I get my other car back family member is barrowing it 4 states over.

So you can imagine my predicament I'm in at the moment I wonder if i can get a hand punching tool in there and punch new holes in it with no power tools obviously

Evo_Goodness

I would like to point out I think this car has been re coated underneath because there is absolutely no ruse under other then a little surface browning on my Megan exhaust nothing worse then I have ever seen so idk why the top of my fuel tank looks like this all I can think of is it was recoated

Biggiesacks

The right thing to do is to drop the tank and have the studs drilled out and new ones welded in. Thinking outside the box though, maybe some really strong magnets around the edge might hold it down temporarily.

MinusPrevious

iTrader: (3)

Heres the most current thread on the same issue. The member who updated it is still active if you need to PM him for questions

Read this: (BTW, the fix is a real PITA) (he only had one failed stud vs your 5)
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/ev...how-fix-3.html

barneyb

Be careful. I was at a dirt track event and a car turned over and caught fire. The fire was quickly extinguished, the driver waved to the crowd, and the announcer said the driver was uninjured. My wife worked at the hospital and she had the driver as a patient for a year.

Evo_Goodness

Well it's fixed I know it's probably not the correct way but that ring is now torqued down to like 80 foot pounds pre drilled the lock ring and pre drilled smaller new holes in the top of the tank and then ran hex head hardened metal screws in it and actually suck the retaining rig into the tank it's now tighter then they ever have been I also got fuel safe gasket maker and added that to the tops of the holes...

I know it's not the conventional way and I don't recommend this to anyone this can be dangerous so be carful but removing my tank at this time was not an option most likely will have it removed next spring and have a new one dropped in but this is on way tighter then it ever was..

PS I am now pig rich and need to go over my hole fuel map again

Evo_Goodness

Btw yes I added another one on the left hand side there so there is 5 total as evenly spaced as I could get them I also filled it and took it on some crazy twists and turns and hills not a drop of fuel draped or leaked going to leave my back seat off for a while and watch t for a day or 2 and then close it up

Bhsj13

well you did what you could. hope it holds well for you!

4b11slayer

worst case scenario put 6 self tappers around that *****. Not the best fix but will hold. Will it hold tight enough not to set evap leak codes? idk but it will surely hold in place. Cause as stated above removing tank is THE BEST thing to do but when doing so you will open a can of worms. Other components are bound to snap if its a salt belt state vehicle.

barneyb

Looking at a photograph of the tank, every opening, and there's a bunch, is surrounded by the same studs. Twenty five studs in all. Down the road we may be creating a new forum section on stud repair.