xiMR

I purchased this evo about 6 months ago its been nothing but a lemon due to the previous owner, dealer lying to me and last but not least me being an desperate idiot, by not doing my part and getting this evo looked over, so now that i took blame heres my story.

1 month after owner ship i found out the previous owner was a local, and beat the sh*t out of this car while people recorded, from dry pavement doughnuts to crazy launches, you name it.

1st month 1/2 evo is running weridish ?? do a comp test got 120 90 115 120

2 month trans blows

2 1/2 i order a motor from tae auto,

3rd month I pull the engine/transmission the following gets replaced clutch, flywheel, transmission, timing belt, water pump, all pulleys, and install the new motor that 150 across according to tae auto

4 hours later the car leaves me stranded, it started to die out after i did a minor pull * due to clutch break in* car starts to die out, then dies, and leaves me in the worst parts of philly at 11 at night.

3rd month 24hr i drop the car at what i thought was a evo builder that knew what he was doing, he does a comp test and said it didnt pass comp

i did a comp test, but forgot 2 leave it wide open throttle i got 120 120 115 93ish ya not the 150 across that was stated from tae auto valve cover but hey? maybe i did something wrong.

4th month pull the motor and get ready for rebuild, order new wiesco piston eagle rods *not going pass 450*, arp head studs Mitsubishi oem master kit, I disassemble the block since really cant test for bad rings while motor is out the car, I drop the head at head games in nj to get looked over * passed the test no bent valves* pick the head up, now I'm dumbfounded, so i assume the rings are bad, and i send the motor to get honed cleaned, and looked over by machine shop that does lots of evo blocks, good news everything passed nothing wrong with block, or head.

5th month I get the block assembled by Lorenzo's in Penndel, pa which happens to be a good builder.

5 1/2 assemble engine with all new gaskets OEM of course, arp head studs, pretty much new everything!

6th month 11/04/16 motor is installed, had minor set back on startup, I installed the crankshaft position sensor backwards, and exhaust cam trigger plate was 180 of. I then attempted to start the engine, which fired at first shot. It ran for about 3 mins and dies just like it was doing 3 months ago, now i'm thinking i should of gotten a second opinion because its doing the same exact thing, it turns on then dies out, and now I'm back to square 1, again my fault.

Codes are as followed

p0335/p0340

exhaust cam sensor is brand new * broke it on engine removal*

I check the following

1. trigger plates all 3
2. comp which rings haven't settled in yet 120 across
3. took of fuel line, getting gas but unsure of its pressure.
4. timing, which was easy because i had no balance shaft.
5. pulled every fuse, and found nothing.
6. checked all the grounds based on my manual, all checked ok
7. grabbed a good newer battery
8. starter looks good and doesn't seem to have any problems
9. Unplugged maf didn't start

What i haven't done

1. replace crankshaft sensor, or test it
2. replace intake cam sensor, or test it
3. figured out why a wire in the engine bay fuse box is being jumped to the a/c relay


i'm in pa and i dont trust any shop right now, psi performance likes to overbook. CBRD saids no to most jobs like this one, again overbook, last but not least Rt tuning there my next contender but unsure if there good troubleshooters, because that's what I need, the problem i'm having needs a good troubleshooter. Also i just got tactrix cable, can i check individual sensors with ecuflash?
any suggestions would be great thanks

nismo n9ne

Damn man, what a mess. So after the car shuts down will it start back up an run for another 3mins or so? Does the temp out side have anything to do with how long it runs? Can you drive it during that 3 mins and if so does it limit rpm?

xiMR

When you step on the gas it starts to die out, and yes when it starts to get hot it dies . I haven't driven the car since I don't have roadside assistance any more plus now it's only running maybe 10secs no more 3 mins unless I let it sit for a day or so, just like it was doing 3 months ago.

4b11slayer

Had this happen to my buddy recently we did a head job and broke cam sensor.

Purchased new from mitsu dealer. We chased our *** and it ended up being the wrong cam sensor.

We came to this conclusion by installing my cam sensor and codes went away. Put his on and boom right away same codes.

Borrow a cam sensor from a loaner car. Look at the part numbers make sure it isnt the same one you bought.

Good luck

4b11slayer

Im almost willing to put money on it . ������

xiMR

I purchased this and picked up from extreme psi it diff matches what they label as exhaust cam sensor, also this happen 3 months ago when I didn't replace the cam sensor

nismo n9ne

Have you tried to compression test it your self? What mods are done to the car? So the car doesn't idle when it's warmed up. if you hold the pedal down will she hold rpm?

Biggiesacks

well from a troubleshooting standpoint, I would verify continuity between the corresponding pins on the ECU harness to the actual connector plugging into the sensors. Also visually inspect the harness for any obvious signs of problems. I know you said you checked all the grounds, but double check that the engine to chassis ground is good and tight and the ecu to chassis grounds (under dash behind glove box) are the same.