evo360bhp

Hi all, I am sorry if this has been answered before but I am at my wits end! I've built an Evo 4g63 engine and it now has PEC rods, Wiseco pistons(9:1) S2 272 cams, a Garret G07R Turbo and Bosch high impedance 1000cc injectors. I've followed a tuning guide that is very informative and slightly altered the stepper values (Idle) and my injector latency and scaling, but it refuses to idle at no less than 2000rpm, when it's warm it's lumpy and sometimes cuts out, I've replaced the crank sensor thinking that the no-spark issue was down to that, but when it is warm it refuses to fire...the fuel maps are practically untouched as is the ignition maps, well, I did increase the first 3 columns at 1000rpm to 8 degrees but that is about it. I was told to cut the plug off the resistor and join all the wires together, so that the injectors are no longer resisted. It's a weird problem it really is.

Basically on cold start I have to keep on pumping the throttle to get it going, then when it's running I have to keep tickling it or it dies, once it starts to warm up the idle zooms to 2000rpm and stays there, it refuses to come any lower at this point, now, when I hit the throttle it's as though the engine has been immediately starved of fuel and dies until I take my foot of the pedal to which it resumes at 2000rpm. I was thinking that the injector values were out as I have no data sheet thus using settings from the Merlin tuning guide. Once I turn the engine off it is impossible to start it again until it cools down, talk about weird city...I just wanted to throw this into the forum in the hope that the more experienced amongst you would have some idea as to what is happening. Thank you.

Biggiesacks

you need to bypass the resistor box on high impedance injectors. If you want a more elegant solution then cutting and twisting the wires you can buy or make a plug in bypass harness. Spoolinup sells one already made, or you can order parts from him to make your own like I did. You need to get the injectors dialed in before messing around with other tables. You could just be compounding your problems by altering other tables before getting the injectors at least close enough to where you can start and idle properly. What is your wideband telling you is going on? Is it running super rich / lean? Your wideband will tell you which direction you need to be moving with your scalings. At least until you can start working the Long term fuel trims. Some other things to look could be your BISS screw adjustment and maybe your cam angle sensor is 180 off. Lastly are you throwing any DTC's?

evo360bhp

No DTC's thankfully As far as the bypass situation; what I've done is taken the righthand plug and cut the plug off, then removed some of the insulation from the 5 wires and twisted them all together, is this right? I'm an old mechanic that was used to tuning carbs, dizzy's and such, all this computer stuff is pretty much alien if I'm being honest with myself. Although I do understand fuel metering, spark timing and such it's just the way it's presented, seems overwhelming if you know what I mean...

What would be an ideal starting point (scaling) for bosch 1000cc injectors? I've set mine at 636 which seems pretty low to me from what I've read so far, maybe I'm wrong. The AFR gauge is 14.6 - 14.8 at 2000rpm, which seems ok but the LTFT reads 0.392 obviously the injectors are nowhere near yet, I really love this tuning stuff and want to learn it. The main problem is the non-starting when hot, I put my spark tester on number 1 HT Lead and it read no spark!? Why would it start when cold and not when hot??
Thank you for the advice it's good to get information from someone who's far more experience than myself, I really appreciate it.