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2.4LR build

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Old Jun 29, 2017 | 04:42 PM
  #16  
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Yikes those are some deep scoring marks. Definitely check your ptw clearance. Who did the machine work for you?
Old Jun 30, 2017 | 12:11 AM
  #17  
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It's been running far too rich.
Look at all the soot in the combustion chambers.......the ones which aren't wet with oil.

So, bad tuning.
You'll also probably have the oil smelling like fuel.

The marks in the bores, you get that when the pistons get too hot / too big for the P to W clearance that it's built with.
When you get the pistons out, the rings will be stuck to the pistons due to the damage on the skirts.
Old Jun 30, 2017 | 05:34 PM
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Originally Posted by RightSaid fred
It's been running far too rich.
Look at all the soot in the combustion chambers.......the ones which aren't wet with oil.

So, bad tuning.
You'll also probably have the oil smelling like fuel.

The marks in the bores, you get that when the pistons get too hot / too big for the P to W clearance that it's built with.
When you get the pistons out, the rings will be stuck to the pistons due to the damage on the skirts.
Thanks Fred I'm pulling them now and say it was running rich the plugs were fouling dues to oil. I'm going to get measurements and I'll let you guys know thanks for all the help!
Old Jun 30, 2017 | 07:33 PM
  #19  
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Originally Posted by RightSaid fred
It's been running far too rich.
Look at all the soot in the combustion chambers.......the ones which aren't wet with oil.

So, bad tuning.
You'll also probably have the oil smelling like fuel.

The marks in the bores, you get that when the pistons get too hot / too big for the P to W clearance that it's built with.
When you get the pistons out, the rings will be stuck to the pistons due to the damage on the skirts.
rings cam out fine but has some scoring on the skirt I still need to take measurements I need to borrow the bore gauge and mic from a friend
Old Jul 5, 2017 | 03:17 PM
  #20  
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While I'm waiting on my bore gauge to come in I did a lil work to the headlights
Old Jul 6, 2017 | 09:59 PM
  #21  
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Okay so this is what I got for piston to wall measurements Here the bore gauge is zeroed out on the mic I use to measure the piston 1.1" from the oil ring

And the bore gauge reads 6 so .0030?
Old Jul 6, 2017 | 11:19 PM
  #22  
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Originally Posted by ghost8
Okay so this is what I got for piston to wall measurements Here the bore gauge is zeroed out on the mic I use to measure the piston 1.1" from the oil ring

And the bore gauge reads 6 so .0030?
or is it .0060?
Old Jul 7, 2017 | 12:24 AM
  #23  
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Originally Posted by ghost8
or is it .0060?
yes.

You should also measure in several different places up and down the skirt.


What was the clearance when assembled?

You need to measure them all.

If it was built too tight then overheated (due to the usual bad tuning), the skirts shrink and the clearance gets bigger.
So, in that case ....the " before" and the "after" clearances are different.
Old Jul 7, 2017 | 12:36 AM
  #24  
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Originally Posted by RightSaid fred
yes.

You should also measure in several different places up and down the skirt.


What was the clearance when assembled?

You need to measure them all.

If it was built too tight then overheated (due to the usual bad tuning), the skirts shrink and the clearance gets bigger.
So, in that case ....the " before" and the "after" clearances are different.
I didn't measure the clearance before, the cylinder was the same size in every spot I measured in 1 and 3 only difference between the to is one consumes oil and 3 doesn't so I find that odd. Do you think it's has to do with the tune considering rps wasn't over 2k? Just idle and light rev
Old Jul 7, 2017 | 12:38 AM
  #25  
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Originally Posted by ghost8
I didn't measure the clearance before, the cylinder was the same size in every spot I measured in 1 and 3 only difference between the to is one consumes oil and 3 doesn't so I find that odd. Do you think it's has to do with the tune considering rps wasn't over 2k? Just idle and light rev
and the reason I measure 1.1" from the oil ring was because that's where Manley say to measure there pistons to determine ptw
Old Jul 7, 2017 | 12:39 AM
  #26  
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You need to look at where the piston manufacturer says to measure the piston. Most are .5" from the bottom of the skirt. But double check.

.006" PTW is on the loose side unless you're shooting for around 4 digit numbers..
Old Jul 7, 2017 | 12:41 AM
  #27  
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I talk to teds machine shop today they said the head is perfect, they said it might be the vr1 that was in the car. Maybe it didn't like a full synthetic?
Old Jul 7, 2017 | 12:48 AM
  #28  
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You need to take out ALL the pistons and measure them ALL.
If they're all the same clearance then maybe it was built too loose.
If the clearances are all different then maybe you've just shrunk the skirt on one piston and only had one piston run too hot.

To me, a clearance of 0.0060 is more than 50% too much.
Old Jul 7, 2017 | 08:30 AM
  #29  
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Originally Posted by ghost8
I talk to teds machine shop today they said the head is perfect, they said it might be the vr1 that was in the car. Maybe it didn't like a full synthetic?
You don't want to use a full syn until after about 1k miles. But that's to make sure the rings fully seat. Running full syn would not cause premature wear like what you are seeing.


Also, you need to measure the cylinder at the top, middle and bottom, and measure in the thrust direction (front to back with engine in car), and then measure perpendicular for that. You're checking for cylinder wall taper, and out of roundness.


.006" is on the loose side, but it wouldn't hurt anything.
Old Jul 7, 2017 | 06:43 PM
  #30  
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Your cams will be "out " too.
Reading from the start, you slapped it together and said that the timing marks match up well.


Without "degreeing" them, they're always wrong.

When the cams are "out" ...........the ignition timing might be out too.
Need a timing light?

You used the tune from the 2.0 to break in the 2.4?

So that's 3 things wrong.



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