Venom_x

Hey guys,
Hoping for some guidance with an issue I'm experiencing. Brief background:
- Car battery died (forgot to pull it off before travelling)
- Came back, had it jumped, and it started up just fine. I took it down the street and it died on me once i let off the gas at a stop sign. I took it around the block and kept running into that - soon as I would let off the gas, the RPMs would drop and since it wouldn't bounce back on idle the car kept dying. If I kept my foot on the gas, I could keep it alive. Other than that it seemed to drive perfectly fine, could go into boost, didn't seem like there were any drive-ability issues so I don't think I have any leaks
- I chalked it up to possibly not having the battery fully charged, so I got it fully charged.
- Again, car started right up on cold start, idled perfectly. This time when I took it around the block, first couple of times I let off the gas, the RPMs would drop then it would idle really really rough, but kept itself alive. After about the 3rd/4th try, it wouldn't bounce back on idle and started dying again.

At this point I am trying to diagnose the above. Checked spark plugs, they look good. Oil looks good. Air filter looks clean, but I tried to take it off to see if it would help get the car more air anyways - didn't seem to make any difference. Battery/alt seems to be okay (I hope), and when the car is running voltage seems to also be running at 14-14.5. Don't see any CELs but I will try and evoscan tonight to see if there are any codes.

I've had idle problems in the past and I replaced an IACV about 2 years ago (with an OEM one). I very rarely drive my car (like maybe less than 10k miles in the past 2 years), so even though it's been 2 years that IACV has gotten very little use. I am leaning to it being another crappy IACV, but anyways thought I'd ask for opinions/suggestions?
Car is a 2003 Evo 2.0L, on an S/D tune as of last year, built block, all the works, etc.

Icecruncher

Similar thing happened to me. The dealer seems to think it is because of the boost leak and expanding rubber I am having because it messes with what the ECU is trying to do. I will have my couplers in probably oct15th depending on how long they take to get here and I found them for way less than $300-$400 more like $60. I will let you know if that fixes my idle as well. Mine usually doesn't die but it nearly has a few times now.

Venom_x

So a bit of an update, I am still stuck.
Checked codes, got nada. I decided to pull off my IAC and run the basic test and video is attached. It doesn't seem to push back immediately like in all the other test videos I've seen, so I'm not positive it's doing what it should be doing. When I turn the key off it finally pushes back.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=L7JT...ature=youtu.be
Technically I also did this test while cold, and I've already seen the car start and idle fine on cold start. It's when it get's warm I guess after the first drive that it stalls out on me when in idle range.
Any other suggestions :S?

I might try and see if I can get the car warm and then pull off the IAC and test it out again to see if it's having issues when warm. Alternatively I may try and find a spare somewhere in case I can test. If it's not the IAC, I'm not really sure what to look at next

Biggiesacks

I would suggest a boost leak test, fix any leaks there. Then maybe look into fuel injectors, might be a good idea to get them cleaned. If you still have EGR installed that could be leaking.