Hello Guys,
So I'm coming from the Subaru side. I'm considering an Evo 7. It's been rallied before, for a few races though
- What should I know?
- There is a possibility the engine of the particular car I'm buying isn't "healthy". On the Subie side, engine health is a real concern, but the engines are cheap and available. Is engine health a concern on Evo side? Evo engines are rarer and expensive
- Any common problems I should know? Any power making limitations? I plan to build it out to 400whp
- Also, there are so few Evos on sale that it basically this, or I wait till another is available


Thanks, any feedback/advice is appreciated

 

4g63 are pretty solid, esp with power restrictions in rally I dont see there being an issue. The chassis is what you should focus on being it was raced.

 

I went ahead and bought it. So many issues though. Hope nothing serious.
- Horn doesn't work
- Door chimes even without key in
- All ACD lights and ABS on
- All tires are a different size (Hope this hasn't ruined the diffs yet)

 

Is it a GSR or RS? I would run the codes on the ACD. It could be something simple like a bad wheel speed sensor, or it could be an ACD or AYC issue (AYC is GSR only), which can be very expensive. The incorrect tire size could be the cause, too.
Generally, the Evo 7 is very similar to the Evo 8, and is quite reliable. There is a lot of information on this forum about what you can do with a stock engine.

 

I did a scan using Evo scan, and there was no ACD code. I guess I have to short the pins on the OBD I think? I think I saw that somewhere
Are the Evo 7 rods weaker than the 8? Think I read that somewhere on this forum as well

 

It's been said but I haven't found much in the way of actual proof.

 

For the ABS and AYC codes: Short pin 1 and 4 Of the OBD connector and switch the Ignition on. Record all flashing codes from ABS and AYC. ( Slow and Fast will give the error code number, There are maybee mor than one code per System, they will be coming one after each other and will repeat in a loop )

For the Rods: They are weaker ( because they are the same as Evo 5 / 6 ) in the following Evo 7:
First generation Evo7 LHD ( RED Diamonds in Front Grill ), Vin Number "..CT9A1U...", All RHD Models and some LHD RS Models.

Second Gen Evo7 LHD ( SILVER Diamonds in Front Grill ), Vin Number "..CT9A2U..." have the newer Evo 8/9 Rods. Also some Late RHD real RS Models have them, depending on Engine Serial number..

You can actually see the different Rods. The newer ones have an Raised Part inside the I-Beam Part, app 50mm from the Piston pin in distance, only on one side.
https://www.evolutionm.net/forums/at...s-img_9472.jpg
You can see the raised spot exactly whre the bend is ....THESE are the newer E8/9 type ...
The older Style Evo 5-6 didnt have that Raised part...

 

Ah,
I have the red diamond. Guess it's weaker rods then.

Also, I've pulled the codes, and ABS was actually disconnected. So will fix ABS first before I start tackling AYC/ACD.

 

Thanks for the info, I have the silver badge but don't have a U in my VIN at all, just CT9A-0etc.

 

Right Hand drive Evos doesnt have the 17 Digit Vins....

LHD are like JMYSNCT9A2U00xxxx
JMY = Limousine Built in Japan
SNCT9A : Model Type
2U = 2002 Model Year
00xxxx : Serial...

 

little update regarding Rods:

Engine Numbers starting "CS, CT, CX, CY" are 100% Evo6 Type Rods

Engine Numbers starting "DA, DB, DC " are 90% Evo6 Type Rods

Engine Numbers starting "DG, DK, DN, DR " I cant confirm anything because never had one of these in my shop...

Engine Numbers starting "DS, DT, GB, GC, GG, GL,GN, KA KC, KD " 100% newer Style Evo 8/9 RODS

Engine Numbers starting " KA KC, KD" also used in RHD Evo8 MR but Engine Block itself is then different than an Evo 7 Block ( Water Pump and Cooling channels )

 

Good info guys, thanks!

So realistically, how much power can I "safely" run on this engine? Starts with CY