05evo11b

Hello everyone, so I'm pretty new to these forums, but basically I brought my car into a shop because it was stalling out and making a rattling noise (thinking it was a throw out bearing). The shop I took it too (general automotive shop, not familiar with evo's or anything along those lines) said I have crankwalk. They showed me a video of my pulley and it showed it moving in and out showing the crankshaft play, i've already accepted the fact its probably crankwalk but of course I just want to hear the opinions of people with more knowledge with this before I move forward. This car has a BOV, a manual boost controller, and in an old picture it showed it had an ACT clutch (I have no clue which one) but it didnt feel aggressive at all, I've heard an aggressive clutch can cause crankwalk.
I'm pretty disappointed this happened to me because I have had this car a little over a year and have not driven it that much because I was in the military traveling, and then when I got out I was traveling for work even more. My questions I have, which keep in mind I'm not shooting for crazy numbers (MAYBE 400-500hp in the future) and would like to save a little money but STILL do it right, IF possible, are:
- Is the block most likely trashed? If so can I really find out dropping my oil pan and looking for shavings, and cutting open my oil filter for shavings as well
- If the block is trashed, do I replace just the short block? (car has 127k on it) or do replace the long block
- Where do I look to find a short or long block if needed to replace, I have only looked on a facebook evo page
- If the block is salvageable, what parts do you guys recommend using to replace it to prevent from further happening?
I am very uneducated when it comes to evo's so please cut me some slack, I'm dying to get this car running again, its not my daily but I definitely want it up again. A couple shops have quoted me 8k in Arizona, to rebuild the entire motor if the block does not need to be replaced which im just going to assume it does, is there a budget for 5k, 3k?
Sorry about the encyclopedia post but I want to figure out what exactly what I will be doing very soon, thank you for the input!

L888Apex

iTrader: (94)

I spent just over $10,0000, but I also purchased a used long block to do it. I also used higher end parts in my build which cost a bit more. You should be able to get away with roughly $5-7k in parts/labor if your long block is still usable. Problem is if you've had metal circulating you're gonna wanna change out the oil lines. rebuild the turbo, change the lifters, and swap the oil cooler if that's the case. UMS in the Phoenix area is a good evo shop in Arizona.

evo420

I don’t know much about “crank walk” mostly because after all the years of reading this forum I cannot recall seeing a post about it actually happening to a evo. I have heard that it’s a thing on older dsm’s. But I might be totally wrong. However getting under the car and pulling the pan / filter will tell you allot. You are going to also want to measure the amount the crank is actually moving. You didn’t post the video you were sent so we cannot really tell how bad it might be.
As far as $9k For the rebuild. With your power goals you mentioned I would say that seems a little steep.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

Sorry to say it, but the car needs a motor. If you don't have $8-$10k to do it, you're probably going to need to sell the car.

It's simply what it costs, especially if you're paying someone to do it, it will probably be more.

05evo11b

never said I didn’t have 8-10k to actually spend, I simply asked if there was other options, but I appreciate the useless reply!

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

It's not a useless reply. That's like the bare minimum you'll spend on a proper rebuild and not have issues. Good luck trying go cheap, it'll cost you double in the long run.

slocho

Theres nothing wrong with getting a second opinion on the diagnosis. Did the shop give you a measurement of the play compared to the actual spec? If not, i would take it to a shop that is familiar with the evo platform.

Bottom line is you have to decide what money you are willing to spend on the car and be happy with. There is nothing worse than tearing it apart just to lose motivation and time (and money) and then having to sell a jigsaw puzzle evo for pennies on the dollar.

Call around and get several quotes. Even if you have to ship the whole car somewhere. If you are willing to spend the money to get the car fixed the right way, its better to send it to a place you trust. If the estimate is more than you want to spend, cut your losses and move on. Again, you're the only one who can decide that. Hope that helps.

Biggiesacks

Why is the reply useless, you asked if there are cheaper options and he answered your question. It is what it is, if you had spent the 200 or so bucks to have a proper PPI done before you bought a money pit you probably could have avoided this to begin with. Being smart about spending your money is knowing what is worth spending on, and cheaping out on a motor build isn't going to save you any money in the long run.

LetsGetThisDone

iTrader: (1)

If you can see the crank pulley go in/out just by looking at the pulley while someone operates the clutch, it's smoked. Thrust spec is .002-.007. Not really all that visible.

slocho

Wow, yea thats toast. Kinda sucks that evo blocks are not available new anymore. One of the reasons im still stock turbo, cant afford to blow my engine lol.

Biggiesacks

What makes you say that? I've seen mitsubishi parts sites (Dealer fronts) advertising new blocks.

slocho

I guess i need to check other places. STM is usually my go-to when i check OEM stuff and under the engine block section, they have them priced but say unavailable as of 2019. What mistu site do you use?

Biggiesacks

I have used a bunch but these guys are who I had in mind about the blocks

https://www.mitsubishidirectparts.com/

slocho

Sweet, shure enough shows the block available. I wouldnt even bother trying to find used. I would just go new OEM and start there.

gsr1379

Go ahead and order from https://www.mitsubishidirectparts.com/ but just because it says it is in stock does not mean it really is in stock. I just ordered a part from them that said it was in stock. But then I got an email saying it was not in stock, and that they do not know what parts are not available until some one orders it.