Paully

Thanks for all the feedback guys

battery - have used 2 new batteries - voltage doesn’t seem to drop past 12.5v or so in logs under hard load - haltech reckons that’s no problem as the ecu only needs 11v they say and will get a 0.5 drop from ecu to read out on dash
Have a new Lamspeed alternator in it so there is enough juice

yes I think earths should be checked again and will do that when checking the harness
I am pretty sure there is an earth coming off the stock ecu connectors - is this an important ground when the Haltech is being used? Is it still an earth?

I have a new trigger wheel and crank sensor as no doubt both are still original - didn’t replace when built new engine - so still not sure if should change these at the same time

someone else did also say maybe the tensioner going out (even though it’s not old) and maybe moving timing if it loses adjustment at high rpm to throw the codes etc

thanks boys

CurseDSM

iTrader: (3)

Haltech should have its own Earth ground. Everything else should be grounded separately from the ECU but all the ground should go together. I would start there not everybody knows this but from everybody who I know sells Haltech says to do it that way. I doubt it's the tensioner going if it were that you would have jumped teeth and wreck the whole motor a long time ago.

Paully

Thanks mate this advice on tensioner etc is coming from Haltech directly looking at the logs - they keep saying is trigger related but obviously can be a heap of electrical things from earths to bad wiring etc

The issue is that it is only happening after long runs and fully pushing it, so was thinking heat related - can run the car on track at 80% for ever but as soon as I push harder it will trigger after 5 laps or so - seems to happen eg WOT, 7000tpm plus then slamming down the gears for next corner - won’t happen otherwise

When I was on the track last time - I cycled ignition at 200kph on the straight and all back to normal for 2 laps - I just find it so hard to think the issue can go away immediately after cycling ignition even when on the track and the same heat etc - so maybe is the earth etc causing - could be a lose one somewhere moving around in heavy cornering etc on track

CurseDSM

iTrader: (3)

Mine happens every time I crank at the engine. I would start looking for maybe a loose and or broken ground it's got to be something stupid. Wish I had more to think off the top of my head to help you out but I can't think of anything other than that at the moment.

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

what about fuel? maybe your transfer tube isnt as good as new and youre emptying the fuel pump compartment. I know Dallas cant autox without a full tank. I'm actually about to test how low fuel I can autox my car in my next practice session. Its been full for several years and I'm afraid I'll find out I have the same issue

Paully

Thought of that too mate re fuel - have a new radium system in the car - run usually 50% plus in tank - fuel pressure etc all seems fine in the logs - how would the car restart on the track and a have enough fuel within a split second if was full empty and run average 160kph plus for another few laps before happens again? It’s the quick ignition cycle back to normal that is the confusing part and so I tend to think is electrical issue

Cheers mate

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

yeah I've hit that 1/4 level on track before, it went limp but the engine didnt die. I drove slower to the paddock but it ran as normal

Paully

I have been at low fuel or full of fuel makes no difference - happened with the stock fuel system and happens with the full radium system - upgraded injectors too from id 1300 - 1700 - fueling is great now for the power level but still didn’t fix the issue unfortunately- I have never run out of fuel on track - even in the fake limp mode still get back to the pits - but it feels so much like a blown off I/C pipe or when I busted a valve years back - that’s why all the boys input on earths etc has me thinking this or wiring to one coil - I am pretty sure this only started happening after I installed the haltech from the stock ecu so the bad ground is looking more likely - I did see on the net a few guys say the p1300 code related to cylinder 4 - not sure if this is true or not?

CurseDSM

iTrader: (3)

I think the p1300 is a haltech thing. I never had that problem with a stock ECU. I never had any codes for trigger sync at all with a stock ECU. Only thing I can think of is getting a kiggly trigger but even then idk if that fixes the sync issue.

Thinking about it some idk if limp mode would result in lack of fuel. I mean it could if u ran a full tank and didn't have any issues and when your fuel got lower and it started this issue ok maybe but car wouldn't go into limp mode I don't think. It would knock nad do all the things it would do for lack of fuel or running lean.

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

I've seen several posts now people getting engine temp related issues. What I gather is the fuel/ignition maps werent properly tuned in that temp range
I know you said something about the car recovering quickly so just throwing ideas here

CurseDSM

iTrader: (3)

Bad tune would definitely put a car into limp mode That's some good thinking right there.

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

gotta remember the temp is measured in only 1 small section of the engine. if accumulating faster there then the issue can come and go(?)
also I dont think tuners will tune you for all scenarios. I'm experiencing a lot of this now after dealing with a cut&paste tuner and another one with a big back log of dyno sessions due to the weather/power outages

CurseDSM

iTrader: (3)

Temp should be measured throughout. I mean iiat should measure whatever temp is is being put through that area. Even a stock mas measures whatever comes through the intake ND not just in a single area. If that's how your car is done go get a new tuner lol

ViciousLSD

iTrader: (2)

I've worked with 5 already. drag race and street pulls tuners wont get it all covered unfortunately