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Preventative maintenance parts list...

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Old Jul 3, 2004, 08:37 PM
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Preventative maintenance parts list...

Well, the MR is on order.

I know the intercooler hose clamps have a tendency to pop off, so I intend on picking up some T-bolt clamps that I'll install on Day 1. I'm also aware that the stock clutch line has a tendency to balloon, and I'll be replacing it with a stainless steel line.

I'm taking a week off from work when I get the car. The first day I plan on installing all of this stuff, but I want to break it in proper the rest of the week. What other bits have given folks considerable trouble and I should consider replacing/installing on Day 1? No performance modifications folks, just things that will ensure the MR won't give me a lick of trouble the whole week.
Old Jul 3, 2004, 08:49 PM
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Very nice. Good job on doing your homework. Most people, me included, don't know half the things you do, and you don't even have the car yet

I wouldn't worry about anything just yet. The first thing I'd do is to brake in the brakes and the handbrake. Do you know how to do that? It's like seating pads when you do a brake job.

Go about 25 mph, and do a moderate progressive stop using the brakes. Do this 10 times. Then drive at freeway speed for 15-20 minutes without touching the brakes if you can to cool them down. It will help seat the pads and scrub in the brakes.

Do the same for the parking brake. Get going at 25 mph, and stop by pulling the handbrake using smooth and progressive pressure. Tap the footbrake lightly to light up the parking brake so folks behind you know you're stopping. Using the handbrake won't engage the brake lights. Do this 10 times. Drive and cool off. Same thing.

Do this ASAP because your brakes won't work properly until you do so.

Also, follow the break-in procedures listed in the Owner's Manual. Then when you hit 600 miles, I recommend that you change the oil and filter.

Also, take it easy on the tyres for the first 100 miles. They need to scrub in before they'll have good traction.

Other than that, look over the car really well before you leave and make sure they fix anything you don't like.


Another thing you may want to consider replacing is the stock BOV. It tends to break very easily and leaks boost. Not a big deal, but it's really flimsy and even just working around the area may break it in half. So consider investing in a good recirculating BOV.
Old Jul 3, 2004, 09:07 PM
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Heh, I'll have a shop manual when I take delivery of the car. The parts department already knows to order themselves an extra one for me. I also have a 3-ring binder to keep track of all my maintenance records, sales receipts, and other documentation.

Bedding in the pads will be done immediately on Day 2.

Days 2 through 6 I'll be keeping the car under 5,000 rpms (5500 rpm on days 5 and 6), putting 150 miles on the car each day. Bedding in the pads will be done within the first 50 miles the car sees. I've set up a good test loop to keep speeds varied, including time in an abandoned parking lot where I can do low-speed (5-10 mph) figure 8s to ensure the diffs are well and broken in.

Days 7 and 8 I'll be bringing the car finally up to 6000 and 6500 rpm during some points of the test loop. At the end of day 8, the air and oil filters will be changed, as well as the oil, and all the differential fluids (as well as cleaning any shavings off the magnetic drain plugs). I'll also be doing a once-over to ensure any major fittings haven't become loose, and torque them to specifications if necessary, as well as topping off fluids.

I've considered replacing the stock BOV, and have shopped around a bit, but I may not replace it until after the first week, depending on whether or not the car exhibits significant loss of boost pressure.

Any other ideas though would be appreciated.
Old Jul 3, 2004, 09:13 PM
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Remember to not hold a particular speed for too long. Try to vary your speed. Also, don't drive for too long. Pull over every half hour and let it cool for about 15 minutes.

It will help your oil seals seat correctly.

Oh, and remember to let the turbo cool down or get a turbo timer.
Old Jul 3, 2004, 09:57 PM
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Make sure you don't fart in the car unless you do it very gently, during the first 500 miles. The Recaros won't be able to handle a Taco Bell three burrito blast at first.

Also, keep your hand delicately on the shifter for the first three months to make sure it seats properly.

Once the tailpipe is completely cool at night, kiss it gently for about fifteen minutes. Talk to it. Tell it you love it.

Give your car a full body massage whenever possible.

I'm sorry - I've had my car for a couple months now - you can baby a Pinto and make it last forever - you can drive the crap out of about anything and blow it up... somewhere, there's a fine line between reality and bull****.

Bottom line - Don't blow your car - either literally or intimately. They are like women - lots of fun - you have to love them - but don't spoil them too much. If you really want to be driving this car thirty years from now, then by all means - spoil it. Cherish it.

If you're already dreaming about an MR - or what kind of NOS shot you want to cram down your evo's throat... don't worry about "taking care" of your EVO.

I do hope you enjoy it, my friend. I love mine, bone stock. So much that I might get the oil changed soon, in fact.

My .02
Old Jul 3, 2004, 10:02 PM
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Come on, man. I'm quoting a reputable shop that builds race motors. Don't belittle what I have to say.

Do what you want. I'm saying that this is the best way.

There's another thread where I specified the two prescribed methods for breaking in the motor. If you want to do the fast break-in, that's your business.
Old Jul 3, 2004, 10:14 PM
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Originally Posted by MisterSpoot
Heh, I'll have a shop manual when I take delivery of the car. The parts department already knows to order themselves an extra one for me. I also have a 3-ring binder to keep track of all my maintenance records, sales receipts, and other documentation.

Bedding in the pads will be done immediately on Day 2.

Days 2 through 6 I'll be keeping the car under 5,000 rpms (5500 rpm on days 5 and 6), putting 150 miles on the car each day. Bedding in the pads will be done within the first 50 miles the car sees. I've set up a good test loop to keep speeds varied, including time in an abandoned parking lot where I can do low-speed (5-10 mph) figure 8s to ensure the diffs are well and broken in.

Days 7 and 8 I'll be bringing the car finally up to 6000 and 6500 rpm during some points of the test loop. At the end of day 8, the air and oil filters will be changed, as well as the oil, and all the differential fluids (as well as cleaning any shavings off the magnetic drain plugs). I'll also be doing a once-over to ensure any major fittings haven't become loose, and torque them to specifications if necessary, as well as topping off fluids.

I've considered replacing the stock BOV, and have shopped around a bit, but I may not replace it until after the first week, depending on whether or not the car exhibits significant loss of boost pressure.

Any other ideas though would be appreciated.
Hopefully the stock MR BOV will be like the JDMs, all metal similar to the 1 Gen DSMs unit. Shold not leak like the current plastic ones.
Old Jul 3, 2004, 10:18 PM
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q6civcx what you're talking about the speed is to seat the rings in. Honestly on a production car they should be fairly well seated in. Same with seals. Reasons being is the average person knows nothing of the break in procedures of engines. Also. You sure they build race motors and not engines? A motor is electric(like a starter motor, window motor, etc.) the thing that makes the car go is usually an internal combustion engine. Just picking.

As far as replacing anything. It's upto you. But once you start replacing stuff like the clutch line don't expect a warranty on the master cylinder or slave cylinder. Also if they use the Japanese recirc(blow off) valve it should be metal where the regular Evo is plastic.

I've not changed anything yet. lol I have added stuff but no changes. I do have the stainless brake lines and clutch line.
Old Jul 3, 2004, 11:41 PM
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Dude, just enjoy your car the first week and don't mess with clamps and hoses. It's a brand new car. The clutch line "ballooning" is exagerrated. As for the clamps, I would tighten them for sure. Mine were all loose, especially around the BOV. Also check the tire pressure which probably will be incorrect. The first thing you should install is a boost gauge, but I think the MR comes with one stock?
Old Jul 4, 2004, 12:39 AM
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Talking

Originally Posted by troutfishin02
Make sure you don't fart in the car unless you do it very gently, during the first 500 miles. The Recaros won't be able to handle a Taco Bell three burrito blast at first.

Also, keep your hand delicately on the shifter for the first three months to make sure it seats properly.

Once the tailpipe is completely cool at night, kiss it gently for about fifteen minutes. Talk to it. Tell it you love it.

Give your car a full body massage whenever possible.

I'm sorry - I've had my car for a couple months now - you can baby a Pinto and make it last forever - you can drive the crap out of about anything and blow it up... somewhere, there's a fine line between reality and bull****.

Bottom line - Don't blow your car - either literally or intimately. They are like women - lots of fun - you have to love them - but don't spoil them too much. If you really want to be driving this car thirty years from now, then by all means - spoil it. Cherish it.

If you're already dreaming about an MR - or what kind of NOS shot you want to cram down your evo's throat... don't worry about "taking care" of your EVO.

I do hope you enjoy it, my friend. I love mine, bone stock. So much that I might get the oil changed soon, in fact.

My .02
LOL!!!

"burritos" ha ha .
Old Jul 4, 2004, 07:54 AM
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Take it easy on the guy. He's careful enough to find out what's going on with the car before getting it. That's more than what most people who own the car cares to do.

I just hate to see another punk kid go racing off in the car and break something. Then come back and get screwy with the warranty. Or worse, he can go off and wreck it and kill somebody and raise insurance rates for everybody.

Everything I have said was 100% kosher. Yes, the motor is supposed to come pre-broken-in. Yes, you can get away with gunning it off the showroom floor. You can do a lot of things and still get away with it.

But that wasn't what he was asking. He wants to know what's best for the car. If you want to treat your car however you want, that's your business. If you have nothing positive to contribute, back off!

ED4, can you leave me some Sales Rating feedback?

Cheers
Old Jul 4, 2004, 09:06 AM
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Love how the accusation that I am considered the stereotypical immature, spoiled, fool is tossed out there when that attitude is clearly eminating from someone else.

Maybe I'd just like the MR to be like the other cars I have had -- hassle free. Simple fluid changes, swap off the tires when needed, and do all the other basic maintenance and never have any trouble. I think the only atypical item I've ever replaced was an oil sending unit on my old truck.

Just maybe I have other priorites afterwards, like saving for a home instead of renting a townhouse in which I'm not gaining any equity, and I'd like the MR to be in great shape until then so after that, I can get a fairly decent daily-driver and then turn my MR into a project car.

Just because a lot of folks out there do ridiculous things, doesn't mean I'm going to. I have better things to do than replace expensive driveline components due to pure negligance. I would just rather do some things -- such as replacing the stock hose clamps with T-clamps -- to prevent a hose popping off while enroute to work. I'd prefer not be on the side of the road with a 10mm ratchet, tightening things up, or finding out that the fireballs that came out of the tailpipe while the car was pig rich during the incident, damaged the rear bumper cover which I'd hazard is about $250-300 to replace (plus paint).

I'd just prefer that 3 to 4 years from now that the car is still 100% reliable, and is essentially in the same running condition as it was the day I drove it off the lot. I don't see the point in abusing a near $35,000 car -- doesn't do me any good.
Old Jul 4, 2004, 11:12 AM
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Originally Posted by g6civcx
ED4, can you leave me some Sales Rating feedback?

I did june 26th. Look by your' name. See the (1)? Click on that. You'll see me there.

Originally Posted by MisterSpoot
Love how the accusation that I am considered the stereotypical immature, spoiled, fool is tossed out there when that attitude is clearly eminating from someone else.

Maybe I'd just like the MR to be like the other cars I have had -- hassle free. Simple fluid changes, swap off the tires when needed, and do all the other basic maintenance and never have any trouble. I think the only atypical item I've ever replaced was an oil sending unit on my old truck.

Just maybe I have other priorites afterwards, like saving for a home instead of renting a townhouse in which I'm not gaining any equity, and I'd like the MR to be in great shape until then so after that, I can get a fairly decent daily-driver and then turn my MR into a project car.

Just because a lot of folks out there do ridiculous things, doesn't mean I'm going to. I have better things to do than replace expensive driveline components due to pure negligance. I would just rather do some things -- such as replacing the stock hose clamps with T-clamps -- to prevent a hose popping off while enroute to work. I'd prefer not be on the side of the road with a 10mm ratchet, tightening things up, or finding out that the fireballs that came out of the tailpipe while the car was pig rich during the incident, damaged the rear bumper cover which I'd hazard is about $250-300 to replace (plus paint).

I'd just prefer that 3 to 4 years from now that the car is still 100% reliable, and is essentially in the same running condition as it was the day I drove it off the lot. I don't see the point in abusing a near $35,000 car -- doesn't do me any good.
You're right it doesn't. And I wasn't flaming or stereotyping. The Evolution has a totally different maintnance set up than most cars. It requires more tlc. As for what I was saying if you go and start replacing the factory parts you may end up with warranty problems as in not getting things fixed under warranty. Which is why me personally haven't changed anything yet. But that's just me.
Old Jul 4, 2004, 11:15 AM
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Originally Posted by troutfishin02
Make sure you don't fart in the car unless you do it very gently, during the first 500 miles. The Recaros won't be able to handle a Taco Bell three burrito blast at first.

Once the tailpipe is completely cool at night, kiss it gently for about fifteen minutes. Talk to it. Tell it you love it.

Give your car a full body massage whenever possible.




My .02

hahahahahahahahahhahahahahah!!!!!
Old Jul 4, 2004, 11:30 AM
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ED4, I didn't realise that was you. Thanks. Appreciate it.


And to the original poster, don't stress out about it too much. It's about enjoying the car, not stressing about what bolt didn't get tightened when. You do what you can. The rest is beyond your control.


And sorry, I wasn't accusing anybody in particular. I was just sick of kids coming into the shop without a clue of what's going on. If it's their car they can do whatever they want to it, but once they start talking trash to another customer about over-maintaining the car I don't like that.

If I were instructing a customer how to break-in the car, and somebody came up and started disrespecting, I'd kick that person out of the shop. There's a checklist we're supposed to go through, but I guess this is the Internet so everybody knows everything.

Cheers



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