Post Here If You Warranty Claim Has Been Denied
Jul 8, 2004, 05:23 AM
#16
Evolved Member
iTrader: (12)
Join Date: Jun 2002
Location: Orlando
Posts: 1,528
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
i didn't have my warrenty denied... but they did discourage me from taking my car to them...
when my stock clutch was slipping even slightly... i brought it to them... then they tell me... "we can drop the tranny, but if we find any signs of racing, you will have to pay for it"... 1300 bux just to LOOK at it, then another couple hundred for the parts, and another couple hundred for the install... i went to a private shop to install a brand new clutch...
when my stock clutch was slipping even slightly... i brought it to them... then they tell me... "we can drop the tranny, but if we find any signs of racing, you will have to pay for it"... 1300 bux just to LOOK at it, then another couple hundred for the parts, and another couple hundred for the install... i went to a private shop to install a brand new clutch...
Jul 8, 2004, 06:16 AM
#17
Newbie
Join Date: Jun 2004
Posts: 37
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Butt Dyno
Please don't give people brake advice. If you think going to drilled units is going to make them LAST LONGER you are insane.
Not to mention they can crack on you, and make you have a very bad day.
http://corner-carvers.com/altimathread.php.html
Don't say anything about releasing gas from the pad, etc etc until you read that thread in detail.
john
Not to mention they can crack on you, and make you have a very bad day.
http://corner-carvers.com/altimathread.php.html
Don't say anything about releasing gas from the pad, etc etc until you read that thread in detail.
john
I have had same-size-as-stock drilled and slotted rotors on my 3000GT front ($500/pair plus pads) and rear ($500/pair plus pads) since 1993 with 70% semi-metallic pads. I just got the the fronts replaced a couple of months ago just so I will have new pads and rotors to match cause the car hit 100,000 Miles.
I have only replaced the rear 70% semi-metallic pads once. It is riding on stock Supra pads (friend back in MD worked at Toyota so he replaced for free) which need to be replaced soon. The front pads has been changed 3 times so far. This means they had around 40,000 to 45,000 life spin for me.
Before I had the stock rotors and pads for about 10k to 15K miles but it would keep warping on me.
I have had 11 years experience with Slotted and Drilled rotors and I will not own another car without them. Your experience with them may be different depanding on the way you drive (even though I brake late on the street) but it solved my warping brakes.
Jul 8, 2004, 06:24 AM
#18
This is completely OT...
You don't think the people at Mitsubishi will put decent brake rotors on the MR?
None of your experience proves anything about slotted/drilled rotors. At best it proves the stock rotors weren't very good. Maybe they were not broken in properly (many people overlook this part of break-in). A similar "same size as stock" rotor might have outlasted your bling rotors.
You 'brake late on the street'? Save it for the track... what are you trying to prove?
Changing stuff for the sake of changing stuff is stupid.. you should at least see whether the MR's rotors work fine first. Of course if all you use the car for is commuting and "late braking" on the street you might never see problems, but that doesn't make them a good idea. There's not going to be anything wrong with properly made solid ones.
john
Originally Posted by fearcazic
I'm putting slotted & drilled rotors and semi-metallic the 1st day I take my MR off the lot.
I have had same-size-as-stock drilled and slotted rotors on my 3000GT front ($500/pair plus pads) and rear ($500/pair plus pads) since 1993 with 70% semi-metallic pads. I just got the the fronts replaced a couple of months ago just so I will have new pads and rotors to match cause the car hit 100,000 Miles.
I have only replaced the rear 70% semi-metallic pads once. It is riding on stock Supra pads (friend back in MD worked at Toyota so he replaced for free) which need to be replaced soon. The front pads has been changed 3 times so far. This means they had around 40,000 to 45,000 life spin for me.
Before I had the stock rotors and pads for about 10k to 15K miles but it would keep warping on me.
I have had 11 years experience with Slotted and Drilled rotors and I will not own another car without them. Your experience with them may be different depanding on the way you drive (even though I brake late on the street) but it solved my warping brakes.
I have had same-size-as-stock drilled and slotted rotors on my 3000GT front ($500/pair plus pads) and rear ($500/pair plus pads) since 1993 with 70% semi-metallic pads. I just got the the fronts replaced a couple of months ago just so I will have new pads and rotors to match cause the car hit 100,000 Miles.
I have only replaced the rear 70% semi-metallic pads once. It is riding on stock Supra pads (friend back in MD worked at Toyota so he replaced for free) which need to be replaced soon. The front pads has been changed 3 times so far. This means they had around 40,000 to 45,000 life spin for me.
Before I had the stock rotors and pads for about 10k to 15K miles but it would keep warping on me.
I have had 11 years experience with Slotted and Drilled rotors and I will not own another car without them. Your experience with them may be different depanding on the way you drive (even though I brake late on the street) but it solved my warping brakes.
None of your experience proves anything about slotted/drilled rotors. At best it proves the stock rotors weren't very good. Maybe they were not broken in properly (many people overlook this part of break-in). A similar "same size as stock" rotor might have outlasted your bling rotors.
You 'brake late on the street'? Save it for the track... what are you trying to prove?
Changing stuff for the sake of changing stuff is stupid.. you should at least see whether the MR's rotors work fine first. Of course if all you use the car for is commuting and "late braking" on the street you might never see problems, but that doesn't make them a good idea. There's not going to be anything wrong with properly made solid ones.
john
Jul 8, 2004, 10:29 AM
#19
Evolved Member
iTrader: (19)
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: NorCal
Posts: 1,779
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
A common misperception on the Evo -
Mistaking brake pad deposit as rotor warping. People need to read and research for themselves before jumping on the bandwagon.
Mistaking brake pad deposit as rotor warping. People need to read and research for themselves before jumping on the bandwagon.
Jul 8, 2004, 10:31 AM
#20
Originally Posted by zstryder
A common misperception on the Evo -
Mistaking brake pad deposit as rotor warping. People need to read and research for themselves before jumping on the bandwagon.
Mistaking brake pad deposit as rotor warping. People need to read and research for themselves before jumping on the bandwagon.
Jul 8, 2004, 10:32 AM
#21
Originally Posted by zstryder
A common misperception on the Evo -
Mistaking brake pad deposit as rotor warping. People need to read and research for themselves before jumping on the bandwagon.
Mistaking brake pad deposit as rotor warping. People need to read and research for themselves before jumping on the bandwagon.
Jul 8, 2004, 11:26 AM
#26
Account Disabled
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Butt Dyno
Please don't give people brake advice. If you think going to drilled units is going to make them LAST LONGER you are insane.
Not to mention they can crack on you, and make you have a very bad day.
http://corner-carvers.com/altimathread.php.html
Don't say anything about releasing gas from the pad, etc etc until you read that thread in detail.
john
Not to mention they can crack on you, and make you have a very bad day.
http://corner-carvers.com/altimathread.php.html
Don't say anything about releasing gas from the pad, etc etc until you read that thread in detail.
john
Jul 8, 2004, 11:27 AM
#27
Account Disabled
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by expl0d
My tires appear worn so they wouldnt cover a synchro problem.
I can honestly say I hate ****ing dealerships.
I can honestly say I hate ****ing dealerships.
Jul 8, 2004, 12:49 PM
#28
Jul 8, 2004, 01:52 PM
#29
Evolved Member
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Aug 2001
Location: SS
Posts: 959
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
my car has 11.5k miles on it.... i got it aligned under warranty and they did the recalls..... also my right headlight won't adjust up or down (not that I really give a ****, but since it was there), so they ordered me a new one.
no questions asked about anything. Nice courteous experience!
My car is stock....
I am not sure why people would leave a MBC on their car to take it to the dealer??? Duh.
no questions asked about anything. Nice courteous experience!
My car is stock....
I am not sure why people would leave a MBC on their car to take it to the dealer??? Duh.
Jul 8, 2004, 02:52 PM
#30
Account Disabled
Thread Starter
iTrader: (2)
Join Date: Apr 2004
Location: Outer Space
Posts: 278
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Originally Posted by Scot
my car has 11.5k miles on it.... i got it aligned under warranty and they did the recalls..... also my right headlight won't adjust up or down (not that I really give a ****, but since it was there), so they ordered me a new one.
no questions asked about anything. Nice courteous experience!
My car is stock....
I am not sure why people would leave a MBC on their car to take it to the dealer??? Duh.
no questions asked about anything. Nice courteous experience!
My car is stock....
I am not sure why people would leave a MBC on their car to take it to the dealer??? Duh.