Modding Path
#17
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Join Date: Aug 2004
Location: Strong Island, NY
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Who street legal would a full turbo back cost though? Also, what about just simple a cat-back? would that cause me to fail my emissions tests? One other thing, if I was going to do intake, exhaust, timer, controller, and gauge, then the gauge and timer aren't anything to worry over, the controller will be MBC, but what intake/exhaust combo works out to be the best performing but still keeping me street legal?
#18
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iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by dilat3d
Who street legal would a full turbo back cost though? Also, what about just simple a cat-back? would that cause me to fail my emissions tests? One other thing, if I was going to do intake, exhaust, timer, controller, and gauge, then the gauge and timer aren't anything to worry over, the controller will be MBC, but what intake/exhaust combo works out to be the best performing but still keeping me street legal?
I like the Buschur stuff because it's a true 3" with nice mandrel bends. Some systems claim to be 3" but when you look closely you'll see necks and/or flanges that constrict the actual diameter. And the Buschur system is affordable with a very nice fit and finish.
You should not have any emissions issues with any exhaust systems provided that you have a cat. A high-flow cat is not any worse than the stock cat in that respect. A test pipe is a different story. You might pass emissions, but would fail the mandatory visual inspection. Not worth the risk as far as I'm concerned. Any exhaust will be "street legal" provided you retain a cat of some sort and a muffler/resonator of some sort.
It sounds like you are sitting on the fence with respect to cat-back exhaust vs. full turbo-back. I was in the same boat. I decided to go with Buscur's cat-back "SCCA legal" system at first. This is basically the same as the 3" system, but there's an extra piece welded at the end that necks it down and adds a flange so that it bolts right up to the factory cat. When I decided to upgrade the downpipe and cat, all I had to do was cut off the mounting flange (took a few minutes with a good hacksaw and metal file) and fit the new DP and cat.
Emre
#19
Here is how you should approaching modifying the car:
1. Do you have any financial obligations involved with the car? If you owe money on the car, or if you're leasing it, then obviously modifying the car isn't exactly the best approach.
2. Do you have the budget? Keep in mind that money you spend on modifying the car is money wasted on your own gratification. It will not help resale value for the most part. You can sell the used parts, but generally you will not get back what you put into the car. So keep that in mind.
3. Can you afford to void the warranty? Keep in mind that if you modify anything on the Evo, you're pretty much going to get the warranty voided. Mitsubishi is strict with it, and they're trying to deny as many claims as they can to cut cost.
4. How mechanically inclined are you? If you don't know how to install simple things, then you're probably better off paying somebody to do it. Factor the cost of installation into your mods.
5. What do you want the car to do? The sooner you can commit to this, the better. If you know exactly what you want the car to do, you can start getting the car to where it needs to be, instead of just slapping on parts without direction. If you do, it's a good way to waste your time and money.
6. Do your homework. Find out what part works best and get that one part. You'll see people wasting a lot of money switching out different parts for better ones because they didn't do their homework. The best way to find out which is good is to talk to people, online and in person if you can. Find helpful, knowledgeable people and get as much info from them as you can. Generally people want to help you because it's a hobby that they enjoy.
7. Remember that the last mod you do should be the engine management. Everything else should be in place before you touch the engine management stuff. You can do it before you finalise the mod, but you will have to tune it again to run with the exact setup you have. So the more committed you can make your mods, the more money and hassle you will save.
8. Remember that cars can be money pits. You can throw all the money in the world at them. This is why it's important to have a vision of where you want the car to be, so you're not trying to reach infinity and spend big bucks on your car.
Personally, I like a roadracing car that's set up for the street. That's what I like. Roadracing demands a lot from the car: it has to accelerate well, brake well, corner well, transition well, etc. It also has to be reliable and efficient.
So in general, the car has to do everything well. That's a tall order for a street car, and that's why I chose the Evo RS, because it does everything well. As far as mods go, I'm focusing mostly on suspension, brakes, and chassing tuning more than anything else. The power is absolutely plentiful for my application.
Maybe if you're drag racing, you'll want more power, but I'm still learning to use what I have. I don't need any more.
1. Do you have any financial obligations involved with the car? If you owe money on the car, or if you're leasing it, then obviously modifying the car isn't exactly the best approach.
2. Do you have the budget? Keep in mind that money you spend on modifying the car is money wasted on your own gratification. It will not help resale value for the most part. You can sell the used parts, but generally you will not get back what you put into the car. So keep that in mind.
3. Can you afford to void the warranty? Keep in mind that if you modify anything on the Evo, you're pretty much going to get the warranty voided. Mitsubishi is strict with it, and they're trying to deny as many claims as they can to cut cost.
4. How mechanically inclined are you? If you don't know how to install simple things, then you're probably better off paying somebody to do it. Factor the cost of installation into your mods.
5. What do you want the car to do? The sooner you can commit to this, the better. If you know exactly what you want the car to do, you can start getting the car to where it needs to be, instead of just slapping on parts without direction. If you do, it's a good way to waste your time and money.
6. Do your homework. Find out what part works best and get that one part. You'll see people wasting a lot of money switching out different parts for better ones because they didn't do their homework. The best way to find out which is good is to talk to people, online and in person if you can. Find helpful, knowledgeable people and get as much info from them as you can. Generally people want to help you because it's a hobby that they enjoy.
7. Remember that the last mod you do should be the engine management. Everything else should be in place before you touch the engine management stuff. You can do it before you finalise the mod, but you will have to tune it again to run with the exact setup you have. So the more committed you can make your mods, the more money and hassle you will save.
8. Remember that cars can be money pits. You can throw all the money in the world at them. This is why it's important to have a vision of where you want the car to be, so you're not trying to reach infinity and spend big bucks on your car.
Personally, I like a roadracing car that's set up for the street. That's what I like. Roadracing demands a lot from the car: it has to accelerate well, brake well, corner well, transition well, etc. It also has to be reliable and efficient.
So in general, the car has to do everything well. That's a tall order for a street car, and that's why I chose the Evo RS, because it does everything well. As far as mods go, I'm focusing mostly on suspension, brakes, and chassing tuning more than anything else. The power is absolutely plentiful for my application.
Maybe if you're drag racing, you'll want more power, but I'm still learning to use what I have. I don't need any more.
#21
Evolved Member
iTrader: (1)
Originally Posted by g6civcx
Personally, I like a roadracing car that's set up for the street. That's what I like. Roadracing demands a lot from the car: it has to accelerate well, brake well, corner well, transition well, etc. It also has to be reliable and efficient.
So in general, the car has to do everything well. That's a tall order for a street car, and that's why I chose the Evo RS, because it does everything well. As far as mods go, I'm focusing mostly on suspension, brakes, and chassing tuning more than anything else. The power is absolutely plentiful for my application.
So in general, the car has to do everything well. That's a tall order for a street car, and that's why I chose the Evo RS, because it does everything well. As far as mods go, I'm focusing mostly on suspension, brakes, and chassing tuning more than anything else. The power is absolutely plentiful for my application.
The problem with the Evo 8 is that no one in North America has much experience with real, track-oriented suspension tuning on these cars. Everyone just slaps on some coilovers and sway bars and calls it a day. I see a lot of Evos at trackdays...many have expensive coilovers...most handle worth sh*t. With my well-tuned stock suspension I'm faster. Why? Because no one around here has experience setting up the car properly. The coilovers I see are all too low and too stiff up front. This is such a basic error in suspension tuning, you wonder how the hell any respectable shop could have set-up a car that way. Never mind the mismatch between spring rates and damper rates.
But getting more power is cheap, easy, and predictable. It's easy to improve on the Evo's power delivery and drivability. But for now at least, it's very difficult to improve the handling. Hell, you can't even find camber plates for the Evo to correct one of the biggest restrictions to the car's on-track ability. There were literally dozens of choices for the BMW E36 chassis, for example.
Anyway, right now Evo 8 suspension tuning is in its infancy. I'm waiting to see how things advance in the next months/years before investing so much time and money on major suspension mods.
Emre