HKS EIDS Type K Install
Jun 1, 2005 | 11:24 PM
#1
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HKS EIDS Type K Install
Good day. I just finished installing this in my '03 Evo prior to typing out this thread, mainly due to the lack of a good solid install thread for the HKS EIDS on EvoM. Here goes...
Updated: July 4, 2005
Pre-Install Notes:
The Type K of the HKS EIDS is the one you should get for your Evo. It should say right on the box and on the unit.
I didn't take any photos of the install because I usually don't take pics during my installs and it never came to mind that I was going to type this thread out after. If you want photos, I can take some pics depending on the feedback of this thread.
The install however, is very straight forward. It consists mainly of splicing wires. If you can color match and identify pin numbers on an Evo ECU diagram, you are all set to go.
Upon completion of the install and tuning, I had none of the usual problems I heard about in other threads, such as idling issues, unable to rev above 5000 RPM, bogging, etc.
You can find the previous posted thread regarding the HKS EIDS install help request here: Other thread
Install Steps
1. Take out your glove box. Open your glove box and pull out the rubber/plastic tab located inside on the left side. Then just squeeze both sides of the glove box and pull down. The glove box is kept upright by two rubber/plastic tabs. Once you removed the tab on the left, the glove box can be easily removed.
2. Remove ECU harness panel. This is located right under the glove box compartment. If you put your head on the floor mat and kind of look up, you'll see the ECU wires running and disappearing over a small plastic panel. Just pull the panel straight out, it's that simple.
3. Unplug the ECU harness. Click on this link for the Evo ECU diagram: Evo ECU Wiring Diagram (print this out for ease of use while installing). The ECU harness consists of 4 seperate harnesses. Unplug the one all the way on the left and the one all the way on the right (the two bigger harnesses).
4. Splicing/connecting wires to wires. Here's really the only hard part of the EIDS install. Important note: the diagram of the ECU is shown as if you are holding the harness from the back, like if you are going to plug the harness in. Just read the following steps carefully and you'll be fine.
6. Find your EIDS a home. You can mount your EIDS anywhere, but I suggest somewhere where you can easily access it for your later tuning. I routed it into my glove box compartment, out of normal sight but easily accessible. I would also suggest using velcro tape instead of the included two sided-tape, since velcro tape is not so permanent and you can remove-and-replace anytime you want.
7. Reverse install the ECU panel and glove box. Self explanatory, reverse install the ECU panel and your glove box. Don't forget to put the plastic tab you took out of your glove box.
8. Install done!
Tuning
1. Start the car. The HKS EIDS unit has two knobs on the back, one, the cut-off adjustment screw, of which is sealed off. The other one is your airflow meter adjustment screw. The settings are:
Counter-clockwise: richer
Clockwise: leaner
Mine came with it set all the way counter-clockwise. As soon as I started my car, I had idling issues, so I set it to the halfway (50%) mark to begin my tuning (there's a small arrow on the screw that indicates the current setting).
2. Idle rev. While in neutral, rev the car a few times, going higher and higher in RPMs as you adjust the knob. Remember: the adjustment knob is VERY sensitive to change, so tune MINUTE-LY ("fine-tune"). When you get around a good spot, you'll notice your EIDS will slow the RPM drop around 1500 RPMs. This is good, as this is what it's designed to do to prevent stalling.
3. Take it out for a spin. Now that you have a good setting down for idle conditions, bring your car out for tuning while on the go. Caution: do it on a clear street or large open area. Here's what I did:
Q&A
1. Will this work with the Apexi SAFC/SAFC II? This "should" work with the AFC, but you don't need the EIDS if you have the SAFC installed. The AFC is supposed to allow you to tune the air flow meter/sensor maps [which is really what causes the stalling in our Evos] so that idling issues shouldn't be present. PLUS the unit comes with a built in "Deceleration Air Flow Correction" program which helps idling issues with cars that has BOVs. Essentially, this is what the EIDS really is in a much much simpler form, but much much cheaper.
2. I have problems with starting up my car during cold weather after I installed the EIDS. How can I fix this? Since I installed this and have been using it warm weather, I have yet to experience problems with starting my car up which requires me to bypass the EIDS at first. I will however look into this before I give any definite solutions. However, I do know that my car idles a little erratic at start-up prior to it being warmed up, which takes about a couple of minutes, then it goes back to normal. This could/should be a related issue. I will get back to you all on this soon, so check back.
***I hope this install thread helped alot. I may have lengthen it a little, but I wanted it to be as specific as possible, especially with no pictures available. If you have any questions, please contact/PM me anytime. Good luck!
***
Updated: July 4, 2005
Pre-Install Notes:
The Type K of the HKS EIDS is the one you should get for your Evo. It should say right on the box and on the unit.
I didn't take any photos of the install because I usually don't take pics during my installs and it never came to mind that I was going to type this thread out after. If you want photos, I can take some pics depending on the feedback of this thread.
The install however, is very straight forward. It consists mainly of splicing wires. If you can color match and identify pin numbers on an Evo ECU diagram, you are all set to go.
Upon completion of the install and tuning, I had none of the usual problems I heard about in other threads, such as idling issues, unable to rev above 5000 RPM, bogging, etc.
You can find the previous posted thread regarding the HKS EIDS install help request here: Other thread
Install Steps
1. Take out your glove box. Open your glove box and pull out the rubber/plastic tab located inside on the left side. Then just squeeze both sides of the glove box and pull down. The glove box is kept upright by two rubber/plastic tabs. Once you removed the tab on the left, the glove box can be easily removed.
2. Remove ECU harness panel. This is located right under the glove box compartment. If you put your head on the floor mat and kind of look up, you'll see the ECU wires running and disappearing over a small plastic panel. Just pull the panel straight out, it's that simple.
3. Unplug the ECU harness. Click on this link for the Evo ECU diagram: Evo ECU Wiring Diagram (print this out for ease of use while installing). The ECU harness consists of 4 seperate harnesses. Unplug the one all the way on the left and the one all the way on the right (the two bigger harnesses).
4. Splicing/connecting wires to wires. Here's really the only hard part of the EIDS install. Important note: the diagram of the ECU is shown as if you are holding the harness from the back, like if you are going to plug the harness in. Just read the following steps carefully and you'll be fine.
a. Yellow and white EIDS wire >>> Pin 90, white wire w/ red stripe (Volume Air Flow Sensor Signal). This is the only tricky part of the install. You have to make this connection into a serial connection versus simply splicing it into the wire from the harness (parallel connection).
Cut the wire leading into pin 90, making sure you give plenty of space on each end for you to work with. The white EIDS wire has to be connected to the pin 90 wire that's NOT leading to the ECU, and the yellow EIDS wire connects to the pin 90 wire that's sticking out of the harness. Here's a rough diagram:
Pin 90 wire > white EIDS wire > HKS EIDS > yellow EIDS wire > Pin 90 wire > ECU
If you look at the back of the EIDS box, there's a better diagram that shows it ("IN" = white, "OUT" = yellow).
Connect the wires with the supplied wire connectors, or connect it anyway you want (solder, wire tap, etc.)
b. Orange EIDS wire >>> Pin 84, green wire (Throttle Position Sensor Signal). Use the included wire taps to tap into the pin 84 wire (or whatever way you want).
c. Red EIDS wire >>> Pin 12 or 25 (either one), red wire w/yellow stripe (12V Switched Power Supply). Use the included wire taps to tap into the pin 12 or 25 wire (or whatever way you want).
d. Black EIDS wire >>> Pin 13 or 26 (either one), black wire (Chassis Ground). Use the included wire taps to tap into the pin 13 or 26 wire (or whatever way you want).
5. Zip tie everything. With so much wires lying around, it's always a good habit to zip tie any loose wires together for a cleaner finish. You don't want lose wires hanging around anyways for cautious reasons, and it makes it easier for later installs. Use the supplied white zip ties or use whatever you can find.Cut the wire leading into pin 90, making sure you give plenty of space on each end for you to work with. The white EIDS wire has to be connected to the pin 90 wire that's NOT leading to the ECU, and the yellow EIDS wire connects to the pin 90 wire that's sticking out of the harness. Here's a rough diagram:
Pin 90 wire > white EIDS wire > HKS EIDS > yellow EIDS wire > Pin 90 wire > ECU
If you look at the back of the EIDS box, there's a better diagram that shows it ("IN" = white, "OUT" = yellow).
Connect the wires with the supplied wire connectors, or connect it anyway you want (solder, wire tap, etc.)
b. Orange EIDS wire >>> Pin 84, green wire (Throttle Position Sensor Signal). Use the included wire taps to tap into the pin 84 wire (or whatever way you want).
c. Red EIDS wire >>> Pin 12 or 25 (either one), red wire w/yellow stripe (12V Switched Power Supply). Use the included wire taps to tap into the pin 12 or 25 wire (or whatever way you want).
d. Black EIDS wire >>> Pin 13 or 26 (either one), black wire (Chassis Ground). Use the included wire taps to tap into the pin 13 or 26 wire (or whatever way you want).
6. Find your EIDS a home. You can mount your EIDS anywhere, but I suggest somewhere where you can easily access it for your later tuning. I routed it into my glove box compartment, out of normal sight but easily accessible. I would also suggest using velcro tape instead of the included two sided-tape, since velcro tape is not so permanent and you can remove-and-replace anytime you want.
7. Reverse install the ECU panel and glove box. Self explanatory, reverse install the ECU panel and your glove box. Don't forget to put the plastic tab you took out of your glove box.
8. Install done!
Tuning
1. Start the car. The HKS EIDS unit has two knobs on the back, one, the cut-off adjustment screw, of which is sealed off. The other one is your airflow meter adjustment screw. The settings are:
Counter-clockwise: richer
Clockwise: leaner
Mine came with it set all the way counter-clockwise. As soon as I started my car, I had idling issues, so I set it to the halfway (50%) mark to begin my tuning (there's a small arrow on the screw that indicates the current setting).
2. Idle rev. While in neutral, rev the car a few times, going higher and higher in RPMs as you adjust the knob. Remember: the adjustment knob is VERY sensitive to change, so tune MINUTE-LY ("fine-tune"). When you get around a good spot, you'll notice your EIDS will slow the RPM drop around 1500 RPMs. This is good, as this is what it's designed to do to prevent stalling.
3. Take it out for a spin. Now that you have a good setting down for idle conditions, bring your car out for tuning while on the go. Caution: do it on a clear street or large open area. Here's what I did:
a. I would start from idle and go through the gears up to 2nd or 3rd gear
b. Abruptly let go of the gas pedal, shift to neutral, and brake. Your RPMs should drop fast, but slow down as you reach 1500 RPMs. If not, adjust the screw when you have come to a complete stop.
c. Continue to fine-tune the adjustment screw until you notice you no longer stall when you abruptly let go of the gas pedal [,shifting into neutral/braking]. For me, this is about 1 mark past the 50% mark, or about 60%.
4. No more stalling! Once you've fine-tuned your EIDS to your Evo, you should no longer have stalling issues.b. Abruptly let go of the gas pedal, shift to neutral, and brake. Your RPMs should drop fast, but slow down as you reach 1500 RPMs. If not, adjust the screw when you have come to a complete stop.
c. Continue to fine-tune the adjustment screw until you notice you no longer stall when you abruptly let go of the gas pedal [,shifting into neutral/braking]. For me, this is about 1 mark past the 50% mark, or about 60%.
Q&A
1. Will this work with the Apexi SAFC/SAFC II? This "should" work with the AFC, but you don't need the EIDS if you have the SAFC installed. The AFC is supposed to allow you to tune the air flow meter/sensor maps [which is really what causes the stalling in our Evos] so that idling issues shouldn't be present. PLUS the unit comes with a built in "Deceleration Air Flow Correction" program which helps idling issues with cars that has BOVs. Essentially, this is what the EIDS really is in a much much simpler form, but much much cheaper.
2. I have problems with starting up my car during cold weather after I installed the EIDS. How can I fix this? Since I installed this and have been using it warm weather, I have yet to experience problems with starting my car up which requires me to bypass the EIDS at first. I will however look into this before I give any definite solutions. However, I do know that my car idles a little erratic at start-up prior to it being warmed up, which takes about a couple of minutes, then it goes back to normal. This could/should be a related issue. I will get back to you all on this soon, so check back.
***I hope this install thread helped alot. I may have lengthen it a little, but I wanted it to be as specific as possible, especially with no pictures available. If you have any questions, please contact/PM me anytime. Good luck!
***
Last edited by EvoCorp; Jul 3, 2005 at 10:58 PM.
Jun 15, 2005 | 12:39 AM
#5
Looks like a really good write-up! Thanks for taking the time to help all of us out! I will be getting a tial BOV in the next week or two and I will still be using the stock MAS, so hopefully this will help out my idle. I let you guys know how well it works for me!
Jun 24, 2005 | 04:29 PM
#6
I'm also curious about the warm up with the eids on. When its cold my car has a really hard time warming up with the eids so I just unplug it and plug in the bypass cable. Is there any way to fix this?
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Jul 3, 2005 | 10:22 PM
#8
Thread Starter
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 99
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Hey all, just checking in and catching up on the feedbacks regarding the install write-up :P as well as any questions that popped up. Work has me by the... well, you know, so been very busy. 
I've updated the write-up to answer any questions that have popped up so far in a new section at the bottom. This way, anyone can print the write-up out and be updated on any issues that was brought up without printing the whole thread
.
I'll keep updating it as needed. I also have a few ideas/questions of my own, so I'm also doing my own share of research.
Keep posting!
I've updated the write-up to answer any questions that have popped up so far in a new section at the bottom. This way, anyone can print the write-up out and be updated on any issues that was brought up without printing the whole thread
.I'll keep updating it as needed. I also have a few ideas/questions of my own, so I'm also doing my own share of research.
Keep posting!
Jul 10, 2005 | 11:52 PM
#9
Originally Posted by xLaNcErEvOx
+1 
Originally Posted by carbonevo8
I'm also curious about the warm up with the eids on. When its cold my car has a really hard time warming up with the eids so I just unplug it and plug in the bypass cable. Is there any way to fix this?
Last edited by fre; Jul 10, 2005 at 11:56 PM.
Jul 10, 2005 | 11:57 PM
#10
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Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 99
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Originally Posted by fre
Yes just intercept the airflow signal wire between the afc and the ecu. So the signal coming out of the afc goes into the eids and then out of the eids into your ecu. I will say that he might have a point that the afc takes care of some of this, but I guess I haven't looked into those functions yet. The eids doesn't even really keep me from stalling so I am going to play with the screw a bit and see if I can't get it to work better.
Edit: ok, I saw you change your post, lol! Yeah, the AFC does have an idle stabilization program built in it, so adding another idle stabilization unit will only make things more complicated. Please do post what you find out tho'.
Last edited by EvoCorp; Jul 10, 2005 at 11:59 PM.
Jul 11, 2005 | 12:15 AM
#11
Well it seems to buck less at part throttle back off, but doesn't really do much for my idling. I will try to adjust that screw though and see if it helps. My problems lie in a tial BOV, lightened flywheel, 660cc injectors and cams so I don't know that my problem can be solved without an AEM. It doesn't stall all the time so it really isn't THAT annoying. I can live with it. You say the afc has an idle stabilizer built in. Do you need to adjust it to get it to work or is it something that just works automatically, because it didn't do **** for my car if that's the case.
Oh and if you haven't tried the tps wire trick you should because it works like a champ. I hate listening to my car misfire on cold starts.
Oh and if you haven't tried the tps wire trick you should because it works like a champ. I hate listening to my car misfire on cold starts.
Last edited by fre; Jul 11, 2005 at 12:18 AM.
Feb 19, 2006 | 06:30 PM
#13
Originally Posted by fre
Oh and if you haven't tried the tps wire trick you should because it works like a champ. I hate listening to my car misfire on cold starts.
I'm still messing around with it. I unplugged the EIDS to run some baseline on how the car runs with just VTA and SAFC. Note: If the EIDS red power wire is disconnected but the white and yellow wires are still in series with ECU, the SERVICE ENGINE SOON light will come on. Well, with the EIDS fully disconnected, the car did stall with the VTA. On fast deceleration, the engine RPM would creep down real low and shut down the engine. You'll know it when the power steering goes out. Most times when slowing down for a stop, the idle just creeps down to the mid 600 RPM range. Has anyone just raise the idle to combat this?
Feb 20, 2006 | 06:08 PM
#15
Originally Posted by EvoCorp
1. Will this work with the Apexi SAFC/SAFC II? [I]This "should" work with the AFC, but you don't need the EIDS if you have the SAFC installed.
Were you also including the SAFCII when you mention the SAFC? I have the SAFC II installed but I didn't do the install myself. I'll have to doublecheck the wiring but it seems to work fine. If you are saying that I don't need the EIDS, then I shouldn't be having an trouble with stalling on the VTA setup.
I'll double check the way my SAFCII is wired.