aschold

iTrader: (7)

Just saw your pm. Alright, I can try to get a bit more detailed with it.

When you get under the car and you look at the bushings that you are trying to replace, there will obviously be one bolt on each side of the diff that you will need to remove in order to do so. You will obviously have to remove the bolt completely for each respective side in order to change the bushings.

Let's say that you start by removing the bolt on the right side. You will notice that despite the bolt being completely out, you will not be able to remove the top half of the bushing without first at least loosening the left side, because the differential will still be too tight on the "mustache bar." Some people remedy this by just removing both bolts completely and then fighting to get everything back into place at one time. This is incorrect.

What you want to do is simply loosen the opposite side just enough to get the top half of the bushing out, replace both bushings, and carefully rethread the bolt into the mustache bar before beginning on the other side.

When you continue to loosen the opposite side that we just talked about to change the bushings on that side, you are going to want to further tighten up on the bushings on the side that you have already completed, but again, don't do it too much or you won't be able to remove the old bushings.

I'm sure nothing that I just said makes any sense whatsoever except for to me, but once you look at it you will understand what I mean. It's really pretty simple. If you don't understand or have trouble I'll be glad to clarify further.

I'm not sure what you mean by the mustache bar bushings, if you're talking about the Energy Suspension bushings, they are a pain in the *** and I don't feel they are necessary. The Beatrush rear diff bushings COMPLETELY took away my rear-end thump. You may notice your rear differential will become louder after the install, but it completely takes out any knocking or thumping. At highway speeds it just kind of makes a whining sound now, it's not loud or unbearable, just barely noticeable.

revvin9k

iTrader: (23)

IIRC, i think I tried that method mentioned above but was unable to do it.

Forgive me, I can't remember anything anymore due to lol

aschold

iTrader: (7)

Maybe you didn't loosen the opposite bolt enough to get the bushing out. You kind of have to play with it a little bit to do it.

nirvevo

iTrader: (10)

On the contrary ... "I see" what you are talking about now

Thanks for taking the time to explain it in more detail.

I'll try the rear end bushings first to see if that fixes it for me.

Thanks again

aschold

iTrader: (7)

Not a problem! Hope it works out. I'm sure you'll be happy with the results.

EvoTio

iTrader: (10)

revvin9k and aschold, thanks again for the tips. Did you guys use a jack to support the rear diff when you changed the rear bushings. I just received my Beatrush rear bushings and propeller shaft bushings and will be installing them this weekend. All I need now is to look up the torque specs for the bolts and I'm all set.

nirvevo

iTrader: (10)

Well, I actually did the rear diff bushings back in August around the time of my last post here, but did the propeller shaft bushings last night.

I chose to disconnect the mid pipe from the test pipe (or cat). It was two bolts and 1 extra jack stand to hold the mid pipe up, and gives you much more working room.

On my car, one of the holes on the bracket was just slightly distorted enough to stop the busing from going through. (the other 3 were tight, and required some finessing to get them through). If you run in to a problem, and you are certain it's from a slightly out of round hole in the shaft's bracket, here's something to try:

in 3 small alternating steps:
1. I tried pushing the bushing through from the other side while turning it so I could see the point that was out of round(it was very slight, but visible)
2.I used a rounded file to gently file (only one direction of course) while following the round contour of the hole.
3. I then used a 1/2 piece of sand paper ( not too coarse) rolled up, and spun it in the hole to smooth out the entire interior of the hole. (I think just sand paper might have done the trick too)

After 3 or 4 tries the bushing popped through just like the others

One more point:

I did one bracket at a time, you should still have a jack stand to support the shaft though. Drop the shaft just enough to slide the two old bushing points off their studs. Makes it easier to tear off the tops old bushings. In my case 2 came off easy and two came off with ripping and scraping away the old seal.
Not a big deal at all though.

Install the bottom of each bushing first, then pop on it's top ring. Once both of them are on their bracket, lift the entire shaft up, while aligning both holes simultaneously. Brass doesn't flex like rubber (duh) and you can't "get one hole on, and then the other. You have to lift, align, and locate in one motion.

I found it helpful to raise the jack stand to just below the mounting height so that I could concentrate on even alignment, and not on lifting.

I ready to do another set, anybody want to bring their car & a 6 pack over? (lol)

wish I'd done this one back when they first came out, I'm slow.