Nyteryder357

iTrader: (1)

So...after countless hours of searching for the correct sized coupler and actually creating the boost leak tester. I attempted the test today. It was near impossible for me to remove the the intake piping from the turbo outlet, but I finally did it. I had to remove the uicp to get it off, which my friend said I wasn't supposed to do. In any event I put it back on. The problem is that I don't know if I'm doing it correctly or if there are any leaks.

Firstly, after reconnecting the uicp I noticed that there is an opening not plugged where the bov connects to the intake. Secondly, the only hissing sound I hear is that of air escaping from a small pinholl in my mbc. Apparently, with the buschur mbc, there is a small hole directly beneath the prong that is most upward on the boost controller. If that was confusing what I mean is there are two prongs to connect vaccum hoses on. One is higher than the other. The highest has a hole directly beneath it. I don't know if that is the way it is supposed to be built or what. Third, I am using a bike pump with a psi gauge on it to pressurize the system. When I pump said equipment the gauge goes up for a millisecond and then back down. I don't know if that's normal or what. In any event, can someone give me like boost leak test instructions for dummies. And please don't say search because I've read at least 30 threads on boost leak tests which are mostly pretty vague. Thanks for the help in advance.

Nyteryder357

iTrader: (1)

bump

Box Rocket

iTrader: (4)

Can't tell you how many times I've asked for the same kind of instruction and never hear anything.

C'mon this forum is helpful in so many ways and boost leak testing is common enough that someone should be able to give some detailed instructions for people who haven't done it before.

Someone please respond to this with some steps on effectively testing for boost leaks.

mrich82

iTrader: (10)

When I did mine the first time I found all the leaking spots and plugged them. MBCs are going to leak, so you need to take them off and plug the vacuum lines. Then you'll find another hose to plug, then another hose to plug. You'll for sure have one that goes from the valve cover to the intake tube... because you took the intake tube off. Eventually you'll get all of them plugged and be able to test all the piping.

It shouldn't be too hard. I recommend having at least another person with you to watch your boost gauge while you do it. Maybe even another person to listen around while you pressurize everything.

sharkm87

iTrader: (29)

i'd like to know step by step too, has someone made a video , or picture step by step or a good detailed outline of how and what to do.

sikrsix

iTrader: (16)

The bike pump might not be a very accurate way to measure pressure in the system.. I used a compressor that had been filled to over 100psi and then I shut it off (so it wouldnt turn on while i was listening for leaks) I have an aftermarket bov so I pressurized my system to 30psi (friend inside car reading boost gauge) the only leak I got was from my hallman.. (little pinhole) so I used a pair of needle nose pliers to pinch the line before it hit my boost controller ( so you dont have to undo your mbc) pressurized it to 30 psi (even though I currently run 22 ish, i wanted to be more then sure I wouldnt blow a pipe off) after 30psi my bov started to slowly leak ... The gauge in the car hit 30psi and you could watch it go down very slowly 1 psi took like 3 seconds to go down.. You should not lose all boost pressure in a matter of seconds. (big leak)

Hope that was of some help to anyone

Mr. Evo IX

iTrader: (5)

Ok here's how I did mine but I have the stock intake and factory bov. I got a 3" female adapter and cap and a valve stem and some pipe dope. Glue threaded cap into female adapter and drill hole in cap and install valve stem.

http://plumbing.hardwarestore.com/52...er-456004.aspx

Remove your airbox and MAF and you can insert this into your intake piping and tighten the clamp.

This test is probably only good for about 10psi but it's enough to find leaks and it will test your entire system.

+1 you need a compressor with tank and regulator.

mrich82

iTrader: (10)

I use a portable air tank like this one - http://www.cumminstools.com/browse.cfm/4,74.html

You can get tanks like this at wal-mart for around $15. You can fill them up at a gas station. Just another option if you don't have an air compressor.

KevinD

iTrader: (56)

you can do it with a bike pump if need be. it takes a ton of pumping though... prepared to get tired doing it. basically the volume your filling is going to be close to that of a car tire. and if you've ever tried filling a car tire with a bike pump... haha you'll know what i'm talking about.

as for the MBC, the pin hole you describe is there to relieve pressure and help stabilize the boost. if you are testing the pressure at higher levels, you need to remove the MBC, and cap the vacuum line going to it from the Intake just as mrich said.

make sure you rotate the engine over to point where there is no overlap in the valves. a compression cycle usually works (when it is hardest to rotate the engine over by hand)

hokiruu

iTrader: (19)

I plan to do a leak test, but no longer have a boost gauge installed (long story). Do you think I can get an accurate/fast enough reading if i disconnect my air tank from the tester fitting and quickly put my high quality tire pressure gauge onto the fitting? Or should I just wait until I have a gauge installed again?

mrich82

iTrader: (10)

I would put two valve stems on the boost leak tester and connect your tire gauge to one of them (good enough so it won't come off) and then pressurize your pipes with the other valve stem. Then you could see it right there while you fill it. They sell some boost leak testers with gauges on them like this. Just an idea of how to do it without a boost gauge...

bboy_RES

iTrader: (18)

i'm in the process of making a boost leak tester with a built in gauge and regulator. cost about $30 and you can buy most of the parts from home depot. i had to order a 2.5" coupler online though. all i need to know is what i need to plug before doing the boost test. also, what do i do with my stock bov? do i need to plug it or something?

hokiruu

iTrader: (19)

That's a good idea, I didn't even think of that. Thanks.

awdwannabe

iTrader: (2)

I believe I'm having a problem resulting in a boost leak as well, and am also in the same boat as the original poster about how there aren't any good, straight to the point step by step pictures or instructions on how to do this test, let alone make a tester yourself.. generally they are vauge w/out much help.

To give you some back ground I just bought a 05' Evo 8, with at the time just under 51k on it with only a K&N drop in and that is how it sits now. I bought it from a dealership a mile from my house and the previous owner was a salesman. Upon looking at the carfax, all maintanance was done at the proper times and documented until he traded the car in for a family car. Now, I'm not sure if any of you guys would be able to answer this, but do any of you guys know if when you take your cars in for warranty service to the tech. check for boost leaks? Because in the previous threads I have read people have said they do a boost leak test with every oil change. This got my attention due to the fact I never asked the guy if he did any leak testing, but I did do a compression test and everything was perfect on all 4 cylinders. Which brings me to the point where I'm at now. I've had the car for just about a month and loving it, but just yesterday on my way to school, and driving in 2nd and 3rd gear (most noticable) at 3k rpms and if I went WOT the car just absolutely lunges foward like it been branded in the rear end and it jumps about 500 rpms, and the stock turbo just seems to be hissing like crazy. It almost sounds like a dyno queen supra's turbo at full boost.. it drowns out everything else for that 500 rpms then the rpms drop back down about 3-400 from what it jumped up to. And when the car is at WOT after the rpms drop I still hear the turbo hissing but not as badly and the car doesn't seem to pull as hard as it did before I heard the sound originally.
So with that said, I cleaned out the filter which was filthy and replaced, it seemed to help a slight bit but still there.. so know I've come to the assumption that there has to be a major boost leak. From what I can gather from this thread alone to make a Tester I have to get a 3" female tube with threads for the cap to tighten down. Glue the cap in place so there's no leaks, I'd have to get two valve stems, one for the input of the pressurized air from a tank, and the other to test if the air is holding in the system..?? Am I correct so far?
Then take the air box off along with the MAF and attach the female tube to the end of the intake pipe and pressure the system and listen and measure for leaks.?? is this the basic procedure.. thanks for the help, and sorry if I jacked the thread, but if this turns out well, it could be put up as a Sticky for how to test for leaks.

bluebyu36

go to a shop pay them 40 bucks and get it done