DIY Ground Kit for $20
#16
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the previous post was my brother
i did not ground the tranny
why would you?
1. i have wire running to body right beside the air box and in fornt of the fuse box. I also removed the paint between the other grounds and the body
2. i have a wire running to the firewall were the strut bar connects. I used the driver's side bolt. From the bolt i ran a wire down to the intake manifold were there is an existing ground. This is a small ***** wire.
3. i have a wire running to the back hoist eyelet connected to the block. From that i ran a wire to the top mounting bolt of the alternator. You can loosen this bolt without taking hte belt of and dont worry about the alternator moving.
4. (I just did it for the hell of it) i ran a wire to the left side were the strut bar is bolted to the strut
Also on the number 3 wire i ran a wire from the back hoist eyelet to the front one.
i noticed a big difference in the idle paticularly with the a/c on
it also pulls a lot harder throughout the revs
i am very happy with mine!
i did not ground the tranny
why would you?
1. i have wire running to body right beside the air box and in fornt of the fuse box. I also removed the paint between the other grounds and the body
2. i have a wire running to the firewall were the strut bar connects. I used the driver's side bolt. From the bolt i ran a wire down to the intake manifold were there is an existing ground. This is a small ***** wire.
3. i have a wire running to the back hoist eyelet connected to the block. From that i ran a wire to the top mounting bolt of the alternator. You can loosen this bolt without taking hte belt of and dont worry about the alternator moving.
4. (I just did it for the hell of it) i ran a wire to the left side were the strut bar is bolted to the strut
Also on the number 3 wire i ran a wire from the back hoist eyelet to the front one.
i noticed a big difference in the idle paticularly with the a/c on
it also pulls a lot harder throughout the revs
i am very happy with mine!
#20
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Excellent post... mods consider moving this to the "howtos-installations" /hope this does not get lost in the sea of other engine related posts.
Bishi,,,, you rock!
Bishi,,,, you rock!
Last edited by jemm; Jul 15, 2003 at 03:55 PM.
#22
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I know that they can withstand the high temperature of a propane solder torch heating up the terminal. The heat is transfered throughout the entire wire and those things get really hot, at least 660 degrees to melt the solder!!!!!! So if your evo runs that hot you are in some trouble, lol. By the way you should only invest in the high current 4 Gauge wire. It is the ones that bishiboy and I used on our EVO's.
#26
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I'm new here, so bear with me... but what is the point of all these grounding kits? I'm not sure how it could smooth out the idle or improve the acceleration.. that is, not unless the electrical harness is grossly misdesigned from the factory.
#28
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Well, I don't know how you got to do your kit for $20. I went to a stereo store and they charged me $16 for 8ft of 4 gauge wire. They wanted $4 for 2 gold plated eyelet connectors. I backed out of the deal and will try pep boys or the like to get some cheaper copper ones or something.
Did you know someone at your stereo store that you managed to source your parts so cheap?
Did you know someone at your stereo store that you managed to source your parts so cheap?
#29
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great post i own a oz lancer and i think i might try diy on this project also, if i do i will post the lengths later
thanks a lot great great post can't say it enough
thanks a lot great great post can't say it enough
#30
Just did this today to my evo. Below is what i paid
9 feet of 4 guage wire = $11.07 (local electronic shop)
12 Gold ring terminals = $29.94 (4.99/pair @ Circuit City)
1 bolt for tranny connection = $ 0.11 ( local hardware store)
Total: $41.12
9 feet of 4 guage wire = $11.07 (local electronic shop)
12 Gold ring terminals = $29.94 (4.99/pair @ Circuit City)
1 bolt for tranny connection = $ 0.11 ( local hardware store)
Total: $41.12