DIY Ground Kit for $20
Sep 12, 2003, 01:15 PM
#78
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I just finished doing this upgrade for under $17.00! I went to Home Depot and got 9' of 6 gauge wire in red, 5 packs of 2 of Copper Terminal Lugs, and one 6mmx1.00x10 bolt for the tranny. There are enough instructions on doing the job here but some differences when using these lugs.
1. You need 2 on the throttle body. That is the joining point for three wires. The one from the left fender to the throttle body, the throttle body to the firewall and the throttle body to the next point (I used the engine block)
2. You need to cut half the strands from the ends of any point where 2 wires will go into one lug.
3. Get one extra bolt. The right fender bolt isn't long enough to hold the lug and the current ground wires. Get the same as for the tranny but a #20ish.
This is a MANDATORY UPGRADE!! I immediately noticed the increase in power to the car. No low idle, even with the A/C and radio on. It started cleaner and the response between shifts was much better.
I can't wait to see if I get better gas mileage.
If I can help pm me.
1. You need 2 on the throttle body. That is the joining point for three wires. The one from the left fender to the throttle body, the throttle body to the firewall and the throttle body to the next point (I used the engine block)
2. You need to cut half the strands from the ends of any point where 2 wires will go into one lug.
3. Get one extra bolt. The right fender bolt isn't long enough to hold the lug and the current ground wires. Get the same as for the tranny but a #20ish.
This is a MANDATORY UPGRADE!! I immediately noticed the increase in power to the car. No low idle, even with the A/C and radio on. It started cleaner and the response between shifts was much better.
I can't wait to see if I get better gas mileage.
If I can help pm me.
Sep 12, 2003, 01:17 PM
#79
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Forgot to mention...at the voltages we are talking about (12-14.5) gold is overkill. Without getting scientific, the conductivity rating for copper is more than sufficient for this job. Also, 8 gauge wire would have been good enough, 4 is overkill but won't hurt.
If you have the money, feel free to spend it. Else the solution I am using had a noticeable difference and only cost $16.75!!
If you have the money, feel free to spend it. Else the solution I am using had a noticeable difference and only cost $16.75!!
Sep 12, 2003, 02:12 PM
#81
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I disagree.
"Hot water cylinders are made from copper due to its excellent resistance to corrosion and its ductility." Quoted from schoolscience.co.uk
"COPPER AND COPPER ALLOYS are widely used in many environments and applications because of their excellent corrosion resistance, which is coupled with combinations of other desirable properties, such as superior electrical and thermal conductivity, ease of fabricating and joining, wide range of attainable mechanical properties, and resistance to biofouling.
Copper corrodes at negligible rates in unpolluted air, water, and deaerated nonoxidizing acids. Copper alloy artifacts have been found in nearly pristine condition after having been buried in the earth for thousands of years, and copper roofing in rural atmospheres has been found to corrode at rates of less than 0.4 mm in 200 years.
Copper alloys resist many saline solutions, alkaline solutions, and organic chemicals. However, copper is susceptible to more rapid attack in oxidizing acids, oxidizing heavy-metal salts, sulfur, ammonia (NH3), and some sulfur and
NH3 compounds. " Quoted from http://www.key-to-metals.com/Article16.htm.
"Hot water cylinders are made from copper due to its excellent resistance to corrosion and its ductility." Quoted from schoolscience.co.uk
"COPPER AND COPPER ALLOYS are widely used in many environments and applications because of their excellent corrosion resistance, which is coupled with combinations of other desirable properties, such as superior electrical and thermal conductivity, ease of fabricating and joining, wide range of attainable mechanical properties, and resistance to biofouling.
Copper corrodes at negligible rates in unpolluted air, water, and deaerated nonoxidizing acids. Copper alloy artifacts have been found in nearly pristine condition after having been buried in the earth for thousands of years, and copper roofing in rural atmospheres has been found to corrode at rates of less than 0.4 mm in 200 years.
Copper alloys resist many saline solutions, alkaline solutions, and organic chemicals. However, copper is susceptible to more rapid attack in oxidizing acids, oxidizing heavy-metal salts, sulfur, ammonia (NH3), and some sulfur and
NH3 compounds. " Quoted from http://www.key-to-metals.com/Article16.htm.
Sep 12, 2003, 07:59 PM
#82
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It's better to be safe (not like it's dangerous) and spend the extra $7-10 for gold terminals and 4 gauge wire...it looks cooler and again, it's only another $7-10. When the overkill kit is $25...why not?
Sep 15, 2003, 10:56 AM
#83
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70 dollars and 3 hours later (yes, took me 3 hours to instal, not 40 min... lol)
i have a 6 point ground kit in,, used silver 4 gage wire and nickle plated copper connectors with black ruberthingys looks great in my apex silver evo
I'd take some pix, but you've seen one, you've seen em all..
thanks for the guide, helped me out
i have a 6 point ground kit in,, used silver 4 gage wire and nickle plated copper connectors with black ruberthingys looks great in my apex silver evo
I'd take some pix, but you've seen one, you've seen em all..
thanks for the guide, helped me out
Sep 16, 2003, 08:35 AM
#85
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first thing to take into consideration.. the "alaskan factor"
12feet of 4gage wire from an audio store : $36 (got 19 feet actualy,, thats all that was left onthe roll,, lol)
4 packs of 4 eye connectors : @ 7.99 each $32 (nickle plated copper, suposedly high qual ****)
so 68 dollars total (rounded up 2 dollars to 70 :P)
A side note.. When connecting to the engine block the eyelets i had where not big enough, had to grind out the connectors to fit over the bolt,, PAIN IN THE ****!
other than that, and struggling to get to the trannie, it went pretty smooth, i didnt use anyone's mesurements, i custom made all my lenghts so that the cables looked good and i made the tips on the cables at the "right angle" for the instal so there wasnt excessive twisting
my headlights ARE brighter though, and the idle has smoothed out a bit. not sure about the power band or radio. but it was worth it for the headlights and idle IMO
plus it looks pretty cool
btw, i did silver(clear plastic) and black on my APEX SILVER evo
12feet of 4gage wire from an audio store : $36 (got 19 feet actualy,, thats all that was left onthe roll,, lol)
4 packs of 4 eye connectors : @ 7.99 each $32 (nickle plated copper, suposedly high qual ****)
so 68 dollars total (rounded up 2 dollars to 70 :P)
A side note.. When connecting to the engine block the eyelets i had where not big enough, had to grind out the connectors to fit over the bolt,, PAIN IN THE ****!
other than that, and struggling to get to the trannie, it went pretty smooth, i didnt use anyone's mesurements, i custom made all my lenghts so that the cables looked good and i made the tips on the cables at the "right angle" for the instal so there wasnt excessive twisting
my headlights ARE brighter though, and the idle has smoothed out a bit. not sure about the power band or radio. but it was worth it for the headlights and idle IMO
plus it looks pretty cool
btw, i did silver(clear plastic) and black on my APEX SILVER evo
Sep 16, 2003, 11:04 PM
#86
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Too lazy to go out shopping? Order online ;)
Thanks to chinalfr, I looked at the Parts Express site, and found all the stuff described for the kit. Total cost was $26 shipped (see below). This is with 8 gauge wire, which should definitely be enough, plus I don't want to take up too much space with this, that engine compartment is hot enough.
The good thing is that this is specifically braided grounding cable, and has high heat resistant insulation, as do the connectors. They have connectors that are half the price, but you get one red and one black, so you would have to buy twice as many packs to get all the same color
Anyway, thanks for all the tips, photos, and diagrams; I need to scoot down to the local Home Depot and get a 10mm bolt and I'll be all set to install this next week
Lac
The good thing is that this is specifically braided grounding cable, and has high heat resistant insulation, as do the connectors. They have connectors that are half the price, but you get one red and one black, so you would have to buy twice as many packs to get all the same color
Anyway, thanks for all the tips, photos, and diagrams; I need to scoot down to the local Home Depot and get a 10mm bolt and I'll be all set to install this next week
Lac
Last edited by Lacoste; Sep 16, 2003 at 11:35 PM.
Sep 17, 2003, 10:37 AM
#87
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I would go for the 4 gage wire.. its kinda like saying "oh that 2.5'' exahust should be fine" but everyone ends up with a 3" exhaust in the end...
just MO though
just MO though
Sep 21, 2003, 03:42 PM
#88
You don't have to remove the airbox at all for this installation, if you're worried about damaging the MAS. I just removed my battery and it's bottom cover, and it's much easier to work with. In fact, the tranny bolt is more near under the battery than the airbox.