Evo8 Alarm install...help
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Evo8 Alarm install...help
Can someone tell me where the wires are to install an alarm, i've done this twice before on other mitsu's so i'm sure the wires are located in the drivers side by the fuse box. however i don't know where which colors are which does anyone have this information?
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ITEM | WIRE COLOR |POL| WIRE LOCATION |
| 12V|white |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|black/yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|black/white |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND IGNITION| | | |
| THIRD IGNITION| | | |
| ACCESSORY|blue/black |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND ACCESSORY| | | |
| POWER LOCK|purple |- |driver kick panel |
| POWER UNLOCK|lt. green |- |driver kick panel |
| LOCK MOTOR| | | |
| UNLOCK MOTOR| | | |
| DISARM DEFEAT| | | |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|green/white | |wht plug bottom of fuse box |
| PARKING LIGHTS -| | | |
| HEADLIGHTS| | | |
| DOOR TRIGGER|white |- |wht plug bottom of fuse box |
| DOME SUPERVISION|use door trigger | | |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|green/orange |- |light in trunk |
| HOOD PIN| | | |
|TRNK/HTCH RELEASE| | | |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM| | | |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM| | | |
| DISARM NO UNLOCK| | | |
| TACHOMETER| | | |
| SPEED SENSE| | | |
| BRAKE WIRE|green |+ |brake pedal switch |
| HORN TRIGGER| | | |
| WIPERS| | | |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN| | | |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN| | | |
| LR WINDOW UP/DN| | | |
| RR WINDOW UP/DN| | | |
| SUN RF OPN/CLOSE| | | |
| SUN ROOF LIMIT| | | |
| RADIO 12V| | | |
| RADIO GROUND| | | |
| RADIO SWITCH| | | |
| RADIO ILLUMINATE| | | |
| POWER ANTENNA| | | |
| LF SPEAKER| | | |
| RF SPEAKER| | | |
| LR SPEAKER| | | |
| RR SPEAKER| | | |
now i just need the windows for my window roll up module
| 12V|white |+ |ignition harness |
| STARTER|black/yellow |+ |ignition harness |
| IGNITION|black/white |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND IGNITION| | | |
| THIRD IGNITION| | | |
| ACCESSORY|blue/black |+ |ignition harness |
| SECOND ACCESSORY| | | |
| POWER LOCK|purple |- |driver kick panel |
| POWER UNLOCK|lt. green |- |driver kick panel |
| LOCK MOTOR| | | |
| UNLOCK MOTOR| | | |
| DISARM DEFEAT| | | |
| PARKING LIGHTS +|green/white | |wht plug bottom of fuse box |
| PARKING LIGHTS -| | | |
| HEADLIGHTS| | | |
| DOOR TRIGGER|white |- |wht plug bottom of fuse box |
| DOME SUPERVISION|use door trigger | | |
| TRUNK/HATCH PIN|green/orange |- |light in trunk |
| HOOD PIN| | | |
|TRNK/HTCH RELEASE| | | |
| FCTRY ALARM ARM| | | |
|FCTRY ALRM DISARM| | | |
| DISARM NO UNLOCK| | | |
| TACHOMETER| | | |
| SPEED SENSE| | | |
| BRAKE WIRE|green |+ |brake pedal switch |
| HORN TRIGGER| | | |
| WIPERS| | | |
| LF WINDOW UP/DN| | | |
| RF WINDOW UP/DN| | | |
| LR WINDOW UP/DN| | | |
| RR WINDOW UP/DN| | | |
| SUN RF OPN/CLOSE| | | |
| SUN ROOF LIMIT| | | |
| RADIO 12V| | | |
| RADIO GROUND| | | |
| RADIO SWITCH| | | |
| RADIO ILLUMINATE| | | |
| POWER ANTENNA| | | |
| LF SPEAKER| | | |
| RF SPEAKER| | | |
| LR SPEAKER| | | |
| RR SPEAKER| | | |
now i just need the windows for my window roll up module
#3
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I'm facing a similar problem. So far, nobody on the forum has spoken up . Here's what I have so far:
Alarm | Car
(Parking Light Sense + In) | Green/White (+ White Plug Bottom of fuse box)
Trunk Sense - In) | Green/Orange (At light in trunk)
(Ign 2 in (key sense)) | Blue/Black (Ign. Switch Harness)
(Brake Sense + In) | Green (+ at switch above brake pedal)
(Hood Sense - In) | ???
(Door Sense + In) | Green/White (+ White Plug Bottom of fuse box)
(Door Sense - In) | White (- White Plug Bottom of fuse box)
(Tach/Generator +) | Blue (3rd ECU Plug)
(-Lock +Unlock) | Gray Unlock (White Plug) or Purple - (Driver Kick Panel)
(+Lock - Unlock) | Yellow Lock (Driver Kick Panel #201) or Light Green - (Driver Kick Panel)
(Dome Lights - Out*) | White (- White Plug Bottom of fuse box)
(Factory Alrm Disarm - Out)| ???
(Factory Alrm Rearm - Out) | ???
(Siren + Out) | To Siren +
(Start Kill - Output) | ???
(Trunk Trigger + Out) | ???
(Parking light + Out) | Green/White (+ White Plug Bottom of fuse box)
(Aux 2nd Ign 1 Out -) | N/A
(Ground) | To ground location
(IG 2 +) | Blue/Black (Ign. Switch Harness)
(IG 1 +) | Black/White (+ Ign. Switch Harness)
(Start +) | Black/Yellow (+ Ign. Switch Harness)
(+12V Battery Power) | White (+ Ign. Swtich Harness)
Alarm | Car
(Parking Light Sense + In) | Green/White (+ White Plug Bottom of fuse box)
Trunk Sense - In) | Green/Orange (At light in trunk)
(Ign 2 in (key sense)) | Blue/Black (Ign. Switch Harness)
(Brake Sense + In) | Green (+ at switch above brake pedal)
(Hood Sense - In) | ???
(Door Sense + In) | Green/White (+ White Plug Bottom of fuse box)
(Door Sense - In) | White (- White Plug Bottom of fuse box)
(Tach/Generator +) | Blue (3rd ECU Plug)
(-Lock +Unlock) | Gray Unlock (White Plug) or Purple - (Driver Kick Panel)
(+Lock - Unlock) | Yellow Lock (Driver Kick Panel #201) or Light Green - (Driver Kick Panel)
(Dome Lights - Out*) | White (- White Plug Bottom of fuse box)
(Factory Alrm Disarm - Out)| ???
(Factory Alrm Rearm - Out) | ???
(Siren + Out) | To Siren +
(Start Kill - Output) | ???
(Trunk Trigger + Out) | ???
(Parking light + Out) | Green/White (+ White Plug Bottom of fuse box)
(Aux 2nd Ign 1 Out -) | N/A
(Ground) | To ground location
(IG 2 +) | Blue/Black (Ign. Switch Harness)
(IG 1 +) | Black/White (+ Ign. Switch Harness)
(Start +) | Black/Yellow (+ Ign. Switch Harness)
(+12V Battery Power) | White (+ Ign. Swtich Harness)
#5
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just a side note, the two "plugs"/harnesses that you need access to are at:
1) the lowest plug at your fuse box,
2) the one on the right side of your fuse box (not sure if it is the most bottom one, don't remember)
and in case you are doing a remote start, and need to bypass the clutch temporarily, what you need is a 12V 5pin relay -
cut one of the two wires (either one, doesn't matter) on the clutch harness, connect one end of the cut wire to pin 30, the other end to pin 87a (NOT pin 87). 85 will be your remote start trigger and 86 is a fused 12V.
This way, you don't need unplug that harness so that you can start your car anytime without the clutch in. You car will start without despressing the clutch ONLY when you do a remote start.
As far as neutral safety is concern, I bought a magnetic non-contact switch from radio shack - they are normally use for doors. Tie one at the bottom of the rod and and the stick other one just below it. with some clearance in between. Ground the switch. Make sure you test the switch so that it's only opened when you are in neutral.
-Kenneth
1) the lowest plug at your fuse box,
2) the one on the right side of your fuse box (not sure if it is the most bottom one, don't remember)
and in case you are doing a remote start, and need to bypass the clutch temporarily, what you need is a 12V 5pin relay -
cut one of the two wires (either one, doesn't matter) on the clutch harness, connect one end of the cut wire to pin 30, the other end to pin 87a (NOT pin 87). 85 will be your remote start trigger and 86 is a fused 12V.
This way, you don't need unplug that harness so that you can start your car anytime without the clutch in. You car will start without despressing the clutch ONLY when you do a remote start.
As far as neutral safety is concern, I bought a magnetic non-contact switch from radio shack - they are normally use for doors. Tie one at the bottom of the rod and and the stick other one just below it. with some clearance in between. Ground the switch. Make sure you test the switch so that it's only opened when you are in neutral.
-Kenneth
#6
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I have an apexi turbo timer installed in my car and I need to bypass my alarms feature of locking/unlocking the car when the ignition is on/off. I can't lock the car or arm the alarm because of this untill the car shuts off. I can lock the doors, but they unlock again when the car shuts off. Any suggestions at what I should do will be appreciated. Thanks.
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Not knowing what brand of alarm you have, but they pretty much all work the same.
Basically, you need to "disable" the ignition sensing of the alarm only while your turbo timer is running and counting down. So you can use the ACC wire from the turbo timer to trigger a relay to disable it.
Split the ACC wire from the turbo timer and wire a relay has follow:
pin 86 - TT ACC
Pin 87a - IG sense wire of the alarm
Pin 30 - IG wire from the ignition harness and from the TT (two wires join together)
The other side of the ACC wire you split off the turbo timer will have to go through a diode and into the IG harness of the car. This way passive arming won't engage while you are driving.
Try drawing out the diagrams see if it make sense to you. I claim no responsibily of this because I have never tried it. Since I have "valet take over" mode with my alarm, I don't really need a turbo timer. I will however try this in a few days see if it works out.
-Kenneth
Basically, you need to "disable" the ignition sensing of the alarm only while your turbo timer is running and counting down. So you can use the ACC wire from the turbo timer to trigger a relay to disable it.
Split the ACC wire from the turbo timer and wire a relay has follow:
pin 86 - TT ACC
Pin 87a - IG sense wire of the alarm
Pin 30 - IG wire from the ignition harness and from the TT (two wires join together)
The other side of the ACC wire you split off the turbo timer will have to go through a diode and into the IG harness of the car. This way passive arming won't engage while you are driving.
Try drawing out the diagrams see if it make sense to you. I claim no responsibily of this because I have never tried it. Since I have "valet take over" mode with my alarm, I don't really need a turbo timer. I will however try this in a few days see if it works out.
-Kenneth
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Just a side note, this is from my knowledge that turbo timer starts the count down sequence by sensing a voltage drop in the vehicle through IG. Once the sequence starts, it will give an output to the turbo timer's ACC wire.
and to clarify one more thing, the TT IG wire that is connected to pin 30 is the IG OUTPUT of the TT.
-Kenneth
and to clarify one more thing, the TT IG wire that is connected to pin 30 is the IG OUTPUT of the TT.
-Kenneth
#9
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Thanks for the info kgmm. I am thinking of just wiring the IG sense of the alarm into the Accesory wire to avoid the use of a relay. It's a little simpler too. This seems to me like it will work since the accesories turn off with the key removed and the TT running giving the alarm the impression that the car is off. If not I will try to make your circuit. What do you think about wiring it this way? I appreciate the help. Thanks.
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Originally posted by bpclements
Thanks for the info kgmm. I am thinking of just wiring the IG sense of the alarm into the Accesory wire to avoid the use of a relay. It's a little simpler too. This seems to me like it will work since the accesories turn off with the key removed and the TT running giving the alarm the impression that the car is off. If not I will try to make your circuit. What do you think about wiring it this way? I appreciate the help. Thanks.
Thanks for the info kgmm. I am thinking of just wiring the IG sense of the alarm into the Accesory wire to avoid the use of a relay. It's a little simpler too. This seems to me like it will work since the accesories turn off with the key removed and the TT running giving the alarm the impression that the car is off. If not I will try to make your circuit. What do you think about wiring it this way? I appreciate the help. Thanks.
The circuit that I suggested actually does the exact opposite of you mentioned. When the ACC wire is powered (the relay is on), pin 30 and pin 87a is actually disconnected meaning the IG sense of the alarm and the actual IG wire of your car is disconnected.
This is actually the same trick I used for getting the clutch bypassed for remote start - by utilizing pin87a. It is funny that the pin87 in a 12v relay is often used. But in both cases you actually need the "normally disconnected" pin87a in these cases.
-Kenneth
Last edited by kgmm; Aug 4, 2003 at 12:05 AM.
#11
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I have the clifford G4 alarm. I really appreciate the info man. I will do it your way then. It really does make sense now. Thanks. I will try to draw a schematic diagram and take pics of the circuit install when I get a chance to do it in case anyone else has the same problem.
Later.
Later.
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Found this on an alarm install site:
Mitsubishi Lancer 2003
Remote Starter Wiring Colors and Notes
Function Vehicle Color Location
Start: Black/Yellow (+) Ignition switch harness
Ignition #1: Black/White (+) Ignition switch harness*
Ignition #2: N/A Ignition switch harness
Ignition #3: N/A Ignition switch harness
Accessory: Blue/Black(+) Ignition switch harness
Brake Light: Green(+) Brake pedal switch
Tach Signal: Black/Yellow or Black/Green (AC) Either ignition coil
Parking Lights: Green/Yellow (L), Green/White (R) (+) White plug at the bottom of the fuse box
Headlights:
OEM Alarm Disarm: N/A
OEM Alarm Arm: N/A
Diesel Glow Plug: N/A
Clutch Bypass Wire:
Notes:
*This vehicle may be equipped with a Transponder Type Anti-Theft System. Use Universal Alarm Bypass Module part # 2x402 where
Mitsubishi Lancer 2003
Alarm and Keyless Entry Wiring Colors and Notes
Function Vehicle Color Location
Constant +12 Volts: White (+) Ignition switch harness
Starter Kill: Black/Yellow (+) Ignition switch harness
Ignition +12 Volts: Black/White (+) Ignition switch harness*
Dome Lights/Superv:
OEM Horn: Red/Black (+) Horn relay underneath the hood
Power Lock: Purple (-) Drivers kick panel door harness
Power Unlock: Lt.Green (-) Drivers kick panel door harness
Trunk Release: N/A
Hope it helps! Exo
Mitsubishi Lancer 2003
Remote Starter Wiring Colors and Notes
Function Vehicle Color Location
Start: Black/Yellow (+) Ignition switch harness
Ignition #1: Black/White (+) Ignition switch harness*
Ignition #2: N/A Ignition switch harness
Ignition #3: N/A Ignition switch harness
Accessory: Blue/Black(+) Ignition switch harness
Brake Light: Green(+) Brake pedal switch
Tach Signal: Black/Yellow or Black/Green (AC) Either ignition coil
Parking Lights: Green/Yellow (L), Green/White (R) (+) White plug at the bottom of the fuse box
Headlights:
OEM Alarm Disarm: N/A
OEM Alarm Arm: N/A
Diesel Glow Plug: N/A
Clutch Bypass Wire:
Notes:
*This vehicle may be equipped with a Transponder Type Anti-Theft System. Use Universal Alarm Bypass Module part # 2x402 where
Mitsubishi Lancer 2003
Alarm and Keyless Entry Wiring Colors and Notes
Function Vehicle Color Location
Constant +12 Volts: White (+) Ignition switch harness
Starter Kill: Black/Yellow (+) Ignition switch harness
Ignition +12 Volts: Black/White (+) Ignition switch harness*
Dome Lights/Superv:
OEM Horn: Red/Black (+) Horn relay underneath the hood
Power Lock: Purple (-) Drivers kick panel door harness
Power Unlock: Lt.Green (-) Drivers kick panel door harness
Trunk Release: N/A
Hope it helps! Exo
#13
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Originally posted by kgmm
Not knowing what brand of alarm you have, but they pretty much all work the same.
Basically, you need to "disable" the ignition sensing of the alarm only while your turbo timer is running and counting down. So you can use the ACC wire from the turbo timer to trigger a relay to disable it.
Split the ACC wire from the turbo timer and wire a relay has follow:
pin 86 - TT ACC
Pin 87a - IG sense wire of the alarm
Pin 30 - IG wire from the ignition harness and from the TT (two wires join together)
The other side of the ACC wire you split off the turbo timer will have to go through a diode and into the IG harness of the car. This way passive arming won't engage while you are driving.
Try drawing out the diagrams see if it make sense to you. I claim no responsibily of this because I have never tried it. Since I have "valet take over" mode with my alarm, I don't really need a turbo timer. I will however try this in a few days see if it works out.
-Kenneth
Not knowing what brand of alarm you have, but they pretty much all work the same.
Basically, you need to "disable" the ignition sensing of the alarm only while your turbo timer is running and counting down. So you can use the ACC wire from the turbo timer to trigger a relay to disable it.
Split the ACC wire from the turbo timer and wire a relay has follow:
pin 86 - TT ACC
Pin 87a - IG sense wire of the alarm
Pin 30 - IG wire from the ignition harness and from the TT (two wires join together)
The other side of the ACC wire you split off the turbo timer will have to go through a diode and into the IG harness of the car. This way passive arming won't engage while you are driving.
Try drawing out the diagrams see if it make sense to you. I claim no responsibily of this because I have never tried it. Since I have "valet take over" mode with my alarm, I don't really need a turbo timer. I will however try this in a few days see if it works out.
-Kenneth
Thanks
#15
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I still have not got my alarm to work properly yet. I have a Python 1090. Similar to the Viper 5701 in wiring I guess. I believe I have most of the wiring done correctly but the Starter Kill Relay. I was told to wire the relay this way:
pin 30- starter wire key side
pin 87a- starter wire engine side
pin 85- gwa wire of the alarm
pin 86- true ignition wire from car
I did just that and when I tried to start the car, it just CLICK CLICK. Won't even crank. Any suggestion?
pin 30- starter wire key side
pin 87a- starter wire engine side
pin 85- gwa wire of the alarm
pin 86- true ignition wire from car
I did just that and when I tried to start the car, it just CLICK CLICK. Won't even crank. Any suggestion?