Dome light, radio, and clock not working! Need HELP!
#1
Dome light, radio, and clock not working! Need HELP!
Hey guys,
I was doing the radio/factory gauge cluster relocation today and after doing the swap a bunch of crap doesn't work fine.
The radio, dome lights, clock, and volt meter (reads zero) don't work. All the dash lights, including the lights for the factory gauge cluster work.
I needs some help here. I checked all the fuses and I didn't find any that were blown. But there are two fuse that are under the hood that I can't remove because there are locked in a yellow holder thing. Does anyone know what the deal is with that?
Thanks for the help! BTW I have an '06 IX MR
I was doing the radio/factory gauge cluster relocation today and after doing the swap a bunch of crap doesn't work fine.
The radio, dome lights, clock, and volt meter (reads zero) don't work. All the dash lights, including the lights for the factory gauge cluster work.
I needs some help here. I checked all the fuses and I didn't find any that were blown. But there are two fuse that are under the hood that I can't remove because there are locked in a yellow holder thing. Does anyone know what the deal is with that?
Thanks for the help! BTW I have an '06 IX MR
#2
Evolved Member
iTrader: (64)
Look in ur under the hood fuse box.. theres 2 15 amp fuses there red surounded by the a yellow plastic piece.. one of those is blown
They pull out.. you have to have at it for alil there locked in.. use a flathead or something thin on the sides or just pry em out.. but they DO come out! and one of them is def blown!
GL
They pull out.. you have to have at it for alil there locked in.. use a flathead or something thin on the sides or just pry em out.. but they DO come out! and one of them is def blown!
GL
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Battou (May 26, 2024)
#3
Look in ur under the hood fuse box.. theres 2 15 amp fuses there red surounded by the a yellow plastic piece.. one of those is blown
They pull out.. you have to have at it for alil there locked in.. use a flathead or something thin on the sides or just pry em out.. but they DO come out! and one of them is def blown!
GL
They pull out.. you have to have at it for alil there locked in.. use a flathead or something thin on the sides or just pry em out.. but they DO come out! and one of them is def blown!
GL
The following users liked this post:
Que (Oct 31, 2019)
#4
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This connector could be used if the vehicle is to be stored for a period of time, or by body/service shops to disconnect while working on the vehicle.
#5
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I have the same problem.. But dont understand do just the fuses come out or the whole yellow box? I spent over and hour trying and I cant get them out..
Last edited by EidolaDream; Nov 26, 2008 at 09:56 AM.
#6
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This is as a result of a short occurring most likely in the radio harness.
It happened me while working on a customers car. In my case checked all fuses and they all appeared fine, both those under the hood/bonnet and those underneath the steering wheel.
After studying the workshop electrical schemmatics for the car it appears that the clock, interior lights, central locking receiver and radio permanent live/battery are all on the one line.
In effect damage had occurred after the internal fuse panel, therefore all fuses were ok and supplying power across them, but at some point after there was a break in the wire.
However you DO NOT need to remove dash and or replace harnesses to rectify.
Look at the fuse panel underneath the steering wheel. Slot 18 (bottom RHS) and you will see in raised plastic 'BACK UP'. Inserting a 10A fuse here will restore the interior lights, radio, clock and your central locking.
There is a small plastic piece in the way which prevents a fuse going in. Simply use a thin pair of pliers, scissors or a screwdriver (or similar tool) to break this and all pieces of it away until you are able to insert the 10A mini blade fuse.
Problem Sorted!
(I believe the fact this back up exists is because the designers of electrical system at mitsibushi realised it had shortcomings or this would be a potential problem - and included the back up for such an occurence)
Fearghus Quinn
(7 years experienced auto electrician & owner of Car Audio company in Perth Western Australia)
Note - this is a last resort. First Check all fuses, including the large 40A, 50A & 60A ones under the bonnet - they all lead to the same outputs further along.
Get a multi meter and put it on the continuity setting (the one that beeps when you touch the two probes of multimeter together).
This setting allows you to ensure that there is continuity, ie a connection (no broken fuse/wire) between any two points. place one probe on the metal on LHS of a fuse, place the other on the RHS metal. If it beeps the fuse is sound, if not you know the fuse has blown.
Simple and allows you to check fuses without having to remove each one & visually inspect individually (however some fuses - such as the large ones i mentioned above, will have to be removed and then you use your prongs on the two blades of the fuse)
. Good luck guys! Hope this all helps
It happened me while working on a customers car. In my case checked all fuses and they all appeared fine, both those under the hood/bonnet and those underneath the steering wheel.
After studying the workshop electrical schemmatics for the car it appears that the clock, interior lights, central locking receiver and radio permanent live/battery are all on the one line.
In effect damage had occurred after the internal fuse panel, therefore all fuses were ok and supplying power across them, but at some point after there was a break in the wire.
However you DO NOT need to remove dash and or replace harnesses to rectify.
Look at the fuse panel underneath the steering wheel. Slot 18 (bottom RHS) and you will see in raised plastic 'BACK UP'. Inserting a 10A fuse here will restore the interior lights, radio, clock and your central locking.
There is a small plastic piece in the way which prevents a fuse going in. Simply use a thin pair of pliers, scissors or a screwdriver (or similar tool) to break this and all pieces of it away until you are able to insert the 10A mini blade fuse.
Problem Sorted!
(I believe the fact this back up exists is because the designers of electrical system at mitsibushi realised it had shortcomings or this would be a potential problem - and included the back up for such an occurence)
Fearghus Quinn
(7 years experienced auto electrician & owner of Car Audio company in Perth Western Australia)
Note - this is a last resort. First Check all fuses, including the large 40A, 50A & 60A ones under the bonnet - they all lead to the same outputs further along.
Get a multi meter and put it on the continuity setting (the one that beeps when you touch the two probes of multimeter together).
This setting allows you to ensure that there is continuity, ie a connection (no broken fuse/wire) between any two points. place one probe on the metal on LHS of a fuse, place the other on the RHS metal. If it beeps the fuse is sound, if not you know the fuse has blown.
Simple and allows you to check fuses without having to remove each one & visually inspect individually (however some fuses - such as the large ones i mentioned above, will have to be removed and then you use your prongs on the two blades of the fuse)
. Good luck guys! Hope this all helps
#7
evo 7 gsr same issues
hey guys. new to this forum
just got autobarn to installed pioneer appradio2 on a 2001 evo 7 gsr. after few weeks i pulled it out to replace apple connectors to an andriod compatible connector. looking at the work autobarn had done, wires were exposed and everything was electrical taped. during the time of exploring the shotty job autobarn has done one wire was tripped and now i have the same issue as the subject thread. exact same including car idling to 1.5k on neutral. any suggestions on how to fix the issues? ive checked fuse boxes inside and in engine bay but all fuses are good.
symptoms;
-central locking not working
-dome light not activating when doors open(only works when car is on ignition)
-gauge light color changed from green to white
-idling at 1.5k
-dash trip meter resetting every start
-dashboard clock not working
Please help!!
just got autobarn to installed pioneer appradio2 on a 2001 evo 7 gsr. after few weeks i pulled it out to replace apple connectors to an andriod compatible connector. looking at the work autobarn had done, wires were exposed and everything was electrical taped. during the time of exploring the shotty job autobarn has done one wire was tripped and now i have the same issue as the subject thread. exact same including car idling to 1.5k on neutral. any suggestions on how to fix the issues? ive checked fuse boxes inside and in engine bay but all fuses are good.
symptoms;
-central locking not working
-dome light not activating when doors open(only works when car is on ignition)
-gauge light color changed from green to white
-idling at 1.5k
-dash trip meter resetting every start
-dashboard clock not working
Please help!!
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#9
Look in ur under the hood fuse box.. theres 2 15 amp fuses there red surounded by the a yellow plastic piece.. one of those is blown
They pull out.. you have to have at it for alil there locked in.. use a flathead or something thin on the sides or just pry em out.. but they DO come out! and one of them is def blown!
GL
They pull out.. you have to have at it for alil there locked in.. use a flathead or something thin on the sides or just pry em out.. but they DO come out! and one of them is def blown!
GL
#10
Having a similar issue with my 02 mitsubishi lancer es
I've been searching everywhere for an answer and still have yet to rectify my issue.
the battery on my car short circuited and fried something I assume would be a fuse. Now the cluster lights and radio do not work. I have checked all fuses including the ones in the yellow holder which are fine. I even went so far as to add a fuse to the backup slot and the backup radio slot. Neither of these suggestions worked for me. Everything else works fine on my car except for those two things.
Im on the verge of calling an electrician to look at this stuff....
Any other suggestions that have not been mentioned yet?
the battery on my car short circuited and fried something I assume would be a fuse. Now the cluster lights and radio do not work. I have checked all fuses including the ones in the yellow holder which are fine. I even went so far as to add a fuse to the backup slot and the backup radio slot. Neither of these suggestions worked for me. Everything else works fine on my car except for those two things.
Im on the verge of calling an electrician to look at this stuff....
Any other suggestions that have not been mentioned yet?
#11
Look in ur under the hood fuse box.. theres 2 15 amp fuses there red surounded by the a yellow plastic piece.. one of those is blown
They pull out.. you have to have at it for alil there locked in.. use a flathead or something thin on the sides or just pry em out.. but they DO come out! and one of them is def blown!
GL
They pull out.. you have to have at it for alil there locked in.. use a flathead or something thin on the sides or just pry em out.. but they DO come out! and one of them is def blown!
GL
Hi, I got the same problem in my car mitsubishi chariot 2000. Is the same solution for that?
#12
Dome lights, radio, door lock, volt meter don't work.
Hi, I need same help... I got a Mitsubishi chariot 2000 and after lose my car keys I made a new one. After that the dome lights, door lock, radio, volt meter don't work anymore. Someone who can give a little help? please
#13
Dome lights, radio, door lock, volt meter don't work.
#14
THANKS FOR THE ADVICE THIS DEFINITELY WORKED!!! It was hard taking the fuses out and putting them back into that housing but I took my time and they both went in mines were two red 10 A fuses