berkel

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the feedback.


I think the KNK readings at idle are ok, it's just that my numbers are much higher than what I see other people posting. My "raw" numbers are like ~720 while others get much lower reading. Also, others see 40 at idle while I see 75-80.

I will go back and double-check all of the connections and make sure everything is insulated well. I didn't do the greatest job the first time, plus I had the issues finding the right wire for RPM, so I spliced and respliced the wires a few times. I can definitely improve on it.

Thanks again,

FB

Deceit

iTrader: (6)

My karman reads about 25hz at idle now. Used to be around 30, maybe one of my honeycombs was damaged...

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Possibly.. Air density can have an affect, so can the type of air filter and even the honeycomb (if you know that you accidentally bent it) Though higher air density will read slightly higher than 30hz.. 25hz is about right if your idle speed is about 700-800rpm 30hz is about right for 850-1000rpm

berkel

iTrader: (5)

Hey all,

Well, I'm a jackass . I had read a few posts and realized it's very easy to wire the SAFC backwards, so I made sure I didn't do that. However, I wired it upside down, since I was looking from the wrong end. Hard to explain. Anyway, the SAFC "worked" since I had power and ground (they're the same on top and bottom), but the other wires were wrong. I was getting readings for stuff, but they just weren't right. Double and triple check your wiring.

TPS, Karmann, knock sensor all read what I would expect now. It really imrpoves perf when you manipulate the actual air volume level! Goes to show my butt dyno sucks, since I thought it felt a little better when it was really doing nothing. I'm very lucky I didn't blow up anything too bad with the wrong wires hooked up.

Anyway, I did experience a glitch, I was driving around and doing WOT runs. Car felt good. I pulled over to calibrate the knock sensor. As I pulled away, car hesitated badly, then died. It wouldn't start after a few attempts (I rolled to the side of the road). I was going to unplug the harness, but I went back and third time car started right up. I drove around more, including more WOT runs and it was ok. Although it did seem to stumble one other time.

Here's the dumb part, I had set part throttle on 3k to -5%. Before, this wasn't doing anything since it wasn't the right wire. I think that now it was way too lean and the car just stalled. I was monitoring correction and it was ~-5% at low rpm before it stumbled then stalled. Does that sound possible. After restarting the car, I set all part throttles to 0%. My idle went upto ~900 whereas it's been at 850 recently, even before SAFC was wired wrong the first time.

Could this have been that setting, or is it more likely a loose wire? I was driving on some bumpy roads after restarting car and it was fine. Now I'm nervous to drive on a busy road in case it stalls again. The (wrong) wires I had connected to before are taped up, but I may have to double-check those as well.

Thanks for the input!

FB

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Well, if you didn't solder anything, solder it.. Those taps have a way of coming loose no matter how hard you try. Its entirely possible that having an odd setting could cause the engine to stall, but thats unlikely it. Your going to find that at part throttle there will be very little correction, even if you set it to something, eventually the car learns around the tuning adjustments, thats why everyone recommends the th-lo setting to be up around 30% I think I mentioned in my doc that you should set it a little higher. You will find that part throttle under load can cause the turbo to spike in boost, which you want to make sure you don't go lean.

If your doing this yourself, its probably a good idea to either borrow, or buy a wideband O2 sensor.. Every car is different so the settings will vary a bit.

Stalling can have several causes, If the soldering job is poor, or the ground is poor, you may find the TPS settings to read higher or lower than what the ECU may expect, if that is the case, its possible the car will stall a few times until the ECU re-learns its inputs (If you can, try to make very good solder joints on everything to minimize this, but because of the long wires to the display there's enough resistence to trick the ECU for a while until it learns) You may find initially you get black smoke the first time or two you run the car at Idle and part throttle.. Same reason..

Other possible causes could have been one of your intake pipes has a leak between the throttle body and the intercooler, your BOV Vents to the atmosphere (Or its not clamped down well and leaking if its a Diverter Valve) Or something as simple as a Vacuum leak will cause the car to stall. (its happened to me once, I blew off the hose to my Vacuum gauge, If any hoses you have aren't clamped with the factory metal band, take a nylon zip tie to secur it.. Its a good preventative measure.)

berkel

iTrader: (5)

Thanks again for the input!

As you may have guessed, it was a wire that I had spliced poorly. It was the one I originally thought was the knock sensor, but was the camshaft positioin sensor instead. Car wouldn't even start when I went back to it, so I'm really lucky I didn't try to drive to work.

Car is running much better now, but with the cold weather I keep hitting fuel cut.

I agree I should def get some wideband tuning, so i'm keeping the settings conservative for now.

Take care,

FB

95GSXtoEVO8

iTrader: (3)

Wow, what a great thread, especially since I just installed my S-AFC II yesterday.

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

If your hitting fuel cut, turn down your boost, 21psi for me is where fuel cut was kicking in on the really cool dense air we've had recently.. Try to keep it around 18.5 or 19psi until you get everything tweaked.. In all honesty, I wouldn't run much higher than that anyway on pump gas.

snapb1

iTrader: (4)

I recently installed an AFC and when the car gets around 5K rpm, it sounds as if the car is hitting the rev limiter/fuel cut. The settings are 45 lo and 70 hi and the settings gradually increase to -9 at 7K rpm. What would cause this problem? And also, the car seems to idle higher than before. I noticed if you disconnect the air flow sensor from the AFC and hook them back together, the car idles back down to where it needs to be.

And also the car has the SES light on. I checked my install and even had my friend double check it. Any ideas?!?

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

You don't say what other modifications you've made to the car.. Assuming its more or less stock, It possibly could be hitting the fuel cut, however it does sound to me like you have a bad ground or a bad solder joint.. If you have a CEL (or SES) and its caused by the the AFC, although you've checked and double checked.. Check to be certain that you haven't inadvertantly swapped the wires for the MAF intercept.. If their reversed you'll get a CEL (If you've spliced into the wrong wire also it will do the same)

Also, if your running anything over 19psi of boost, you may find on a cool day that you'll hit fuel cut (Especially if the boost spikes which is about the RPM you might get that)

Also, verify that you were selecting the wires you are going to tap or splice into by looking at the BACK of the connector, not the front.. If you looked at the front of the connector, you've spliced into the wrong wires because its reversed.

Hope that helps..

Since you have a CEL, You might want to get someone (like Pep boys) who has an OBD-II code reader and look up the code.. I'll bet its either the MAF Sensor (If it shows an error, it could be a bad soldering connection), If its the Crank or Cam angle sensor error, you spliced into the wrong wire on the harness..

snapb1

iTrader: (4)

Jack,
Ok, the only other mod is a MBC and boost is 1.3 bar. And I know I am getting a CEL w/ the AFC b/c it didn't start up until it was installed and it went off when I disconnected the AFC.

And you install the yellow wire from the AFC closest to the ECU, so that is right (yellow and white wire go to air flow sensor). We also looked from the back of the extension (one the wires plug into, not the one plugging into the ECU). I will check my ground and see that it is properly grounded. After that, guess it is off to PepBoys...

Anything else you think of would be greatly appreciated. Thanks man!

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

Ok.. you have a harness extension.. The back of the connector is the back of the individual connectors.. Not the back of the one piece that looks like the ECU connector..

Basically look at the back of the 4 connectors that plug into the ECU.. so your setup looks like this..

Car wire harness (4 individual connectors) into the extension harness (1 peice connector with for plug recepticles) the other end of the extension harness has 4 connectors, which plugs into the ecu.. Look at the back of the 4 connectors that plug into the ECU and verify that their all correct..

if its all correct, then get the trouble code from the car just to be certain its just not something else.

snapb1

iTrader: (4)

Ok, this is what we have looked and double checked. We are getting throttle and RPM signal, a good power and ground, and when we unhook the air flow sensor and hook it into the AFC, the car idles up to 1500 rpm instead of around 900, and the car also hits the fuel cut/rev limiter (or what we think it is). But when you disconnect it from the AFC and hook it back up, the idle drops to normal and you can now rev above 5K. WTF?

snapb1

iTrader: (4)

One other quick note, our Karmann is reading 3 hz w/ the car on and off. I take it something isn't hooked up right?

MalibuJack

iTrader: (5)

From this item alone, I would seriously double check your wiring.. if you looked at the BACK of the connector that the factory harness plugs into (The extension cable) which is 1 piece.. then its probably wired incorrectly..

If you looked at the back of the 4 individual connectors that plug into the ECU, then your ok..

Wiring issues are usually 99% of the problems I've seen..

I think if you looked at the connector backward, from the wrong "End" you might have spliced into the Cam Angle sensor.. what that means is (if it even ran) the engines timing may be off, and therefore you'd hit what feels like fuel cut.. Plus it may idle higher for no reason because the cam timing possibly got shifted a few degrees out of whack..

Not saying that this is your problem.. but it does seem like it..