Easy way to fill tranny fluid
#16
I also find a suction gun works quite well:
http://www.widgets.ws/prod/AutoBarnc...ction-Gun.html
It holds about 1/2 quart at a time, saves all kinds of time on the job and only costs about $6. Also, when doing the tranny, I found it easier to come from the top (I had the airbox/filter removed already) and pour the fluid into the suction gun. It basically worked like a big funnel. However, it probably would have gone a little quicker pushing the fluid through rather than waiting on gravity to move the 75-90
http://www.widgets.ws/prod/AutoBarnc...ction-Gun.html
It holds about 1/2 quart at a time, saves all kinds of time on the job and only costs about $6. Also, when doing the tranny, I found it easier to come from the top (I had the airbox/filter removed already) and pour the fluid into the suction gun. It basically worked like a big funnel. However, it probably would have gone a little quicker pushing the fluid through rather than waiting on gravity to move the 75-90
Last edited by EvolvedDSM; Nov 3, 2003 at 02:09 PM.
#18
Originally posted by simevo
You don't need to cut anything. It is very easy. You can reach all the bolts easily except for the fill bolt for the transfer case. You'll need an extension for that one but still very easy.
You don't need to cut anything. It is very easy. You can reach all the bolts easily except for the fill bolt for the transfer case. You'll need an extension for that one but still very easy.
get to the fill hole for the transfer case... is that what you did?
Just want to make sure I fill the right fluid to the right place..
#19
I tried the pump thing but I guess I bought a cheap one. It was messy a hell. I leaked out the pump.
I used a small funnel with a 1 1/2ft section of tubing.
I filled the tranny from above. My battery has been removed and replaced with a drycell so I had room.
I filled the transfer case from above also, directly above it by the passengerside intake arae.
I also filled the rear diff from above. I placed the funnel in the wheel well and routed the tubing down to the filler hole.
I used ramps for the front and a floor jack with jack stands for the rear, so it was level.
Redline MT90 for tranny, Redline 75W90 for trasfer case and rear diff.
I used a small funnel with a 1 1/2ft section of tubing.
I filled the tranny from above. My battery has been removed and replaced with a drycell so I had room.
I filled the transfer case from above also, directly above it by the passengerside intake arae.
I also filled the rear diff from above. I placed the funnel in the wheel well and routed the tubing down to the filler hole.
I used ramps for the front and a floor jack with jack stands for the rear, so it was level.
Redline MT90 for tranny, Redline 75W90 for trasfer case and rear diff.
#20
replaced mines about a week and a half ago with the same method as simevo...it was sort of messy though. Didn't feel a difference in the shifting at first but after 200 miles or so you can feel a difference (less notchiness) I also did the clutch line with the restrictor still in and it made a difference in the engagement also.
nice write-up.
nice write-up.
#21
I guess I'm the only one that think the shifting becomes notchier
after MT-90....
But come to think about it... it is only notchier when in
stop-and-go traffic (I hate L.A. traffic)...
after MT-90....
But come to think about it... it is only notchier when in
stop-and-go traffic (I hate L.A. traffic)...
#22
If you do it right, it is not messy. Mine was done without any mess except for the transfer case (very small mess). It leaked out of the fill hole once it got full. Make sure you have a plastic tray under the car so it drips into it. Good thing about a pump, you control how much is going in; so once it's full and starting to leak, just stop pumping.
Yes, the fill hole for the transfer case is right above the down pipe. All the fill bolts have a washer so make sure you get the right bolts and put the washer back before tightening.
Yes, the fill hole for the transfer case is right above the down pipe. All the fill bolts have a washer so make sure you get the right bolts and put the washer back before tightening.
#25
Originally posted by Evo11V
You just jacked up the car and changed it like that? What about the rear trans case did you do it the same way?
You just jacked up the car and changed it like that? What about the rear trans case did you do it the same way?
For the fronts I drove the car up on ramps, and the jacked up the rear until the car was basically level (using a bubble level on the rail behind the side skirt).
A fluid pump makes the changes much easier, I've been recommending it for quite a while now. That suction gun also looks like it would work good, maybe even better than the pump.
#26
Took me a few hours.... but I did oil/transaxle/transfer/rear diff...
It really depends on how many oil pan you got (how many places
you could drain at once)... and how much room under the car
(how much pain to pump the fluid back in)...
I didn't have much room under the car since I had the front under
ramps and rear on jump stands...
Actually... does anyone know how to get to the front jack point??
I know it should be behind the front panel... but do I need to
remove the entire panel to get to it???
It really depends on how many oil pan you got (how many places
you could drain at once)... and how much room under the car
(how much pain to pump the fluid back in)...
I didn't have much room under the car since I had the front under
ramps and rear on jump stands...
Actually... does anyone know how to get to the front jack point??
I know it should be behind the front panel... but do I need to
remove the entire panel to get to it???
#29
You don't have to lift the rear up that much. In fact you can do it without lifting the rear. But, if you want to lift just alittle, just use the factory jack in the car.