Jacking Points with a Floor Jack
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Jacking Points with a Floor Jack
I was wondering where the best jacking points are to rotate my tires. I see the ones for the factory jack but I was wondering if those would be able to with stand the force and pressure from the plate of the floor jack. Thanks for any help and also if there are any other spots please let me know!
Thanks,
Chris
Thanks,
Chris
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The ones that the factory specifies are a central point under an access panel in the front undertray and the rear diff. I actually used a beefy looking support that is inboard of the factory jack point and close to the bolt for the front crossbraces. Don't use the factory jack points with your floor jack, you'll bend the metal. JC whitney does sell a block that goes on your floor jack so you can use the scissor jack point..
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On the rear, you can also jack on the tow hook with a floor jack. I is a little easier to reach than the diff.
So, where does everyone put the jack stands after you've lifted with the floor jack?
I am not totally happy with where I am placing the jack stands.
So, where does everyone put the jack stands after you've lifted with the floor jack?
I am not totally happy with where I am placing the jack stands.
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I've had a lot of trouble finding an easy location at the rear too. I'll have to check the rear diff and rear tow hooks next time.
Whatever you do, DO NOT use the beefy-looking (but NOT) pseudo-frame rails that are under the car (lengthwise, running about 8 inches inboard of the sill ridges where the factory jack goes). The metal is not nearly as thick as it looks, and it thins out at you get further rearward.
Don't ask me how I know this....
Whatever you do, DO NOT use the beefy-looking (but NOT) pseudo-frame rails that are under the car (lengthwise, running about 8 inches inboard of the sill ridges where the factory jack goes). The metal is not nearly as thick as it looks, and it thins out at you get further rearward.
Don't ask me how I know this....
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Originally posted by Rob W.
I've had a lot of trouble finding an easy location at the rear too. I'll have to check the rear diff and rear tow hooks next time.
Whatever you do, DO NOT use the beefy-looking (but NOT) pseudo-frame rails that are under the car (lengthwise, running about 8 inches inboard of the sill ridges where the factory jack goes). The metal is not nearly as thick as it looks, and it thins out at you get further rearward.
Don't ask me how I know this....
I've had a lot of trouble finding an easy location at the rear too. I'll have to check the rear diff and rear tow hooks next time.
Whatever you do, DO NOT use the beefy-looking (but NOT) pseudo-frame rails that are under the car (lengthwise, running about 8 inches inboard of the sill ridges where the factory jack goes). The metal is not nearly as thick as it looks, and it thins out at you get further rearward.
Don't ask me how I know this....
So, where to put the jack stands?
Here's what I know(may not be ideal)
Front:
1)The beefy frame rails work fine up front. Look for the area of the rail where it is doubled over and a bolt goes thru it.
2) The other option is a small area right behind the factory jacking spot. As someone else mentioned, I am not thrilled this this area.
Rear:
**Don't use the beefy rail back here--it does crush a bit.
1) The small area behind the factory jacking point
2) IF you are not doing anthing that involves suspension work, I have used the round portion of the control arm of the rear suspension, where it connects to the body. It is near the jacking point.
I am not thrilled with these spots but I have used them a coule of times. They may be the best spots available.
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I dont knwo about you but Id still be a little worried about lifting my car by the rear diff.....
Lets all get some of those autoJacks that Lift thecar with a little bump from the air compressor.
Lets all get some of those autoJacks that Lift thecar with a little bump from the air compressor.
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I've jacked my 300ZX from the rear diff countless times. I also did it with my WRX. For some reason, I didn't want to with the EVO though. Maybe there were cooling fins cast into it? I can't remember.
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The factory point to place the jack stand isn't great. I tried it, it just bends ur metal like playdough. Plus I have a puny *** portable jack, so it doesn't quite lift my car high enough for me to even place my jack stands in. Or maybe my jack stands are too high... I think I should jsut replace bigger jack and smaller stands. But I bought mine from autozone like 4 months ago, maybe they'll take it. :-p. I think I still have the receipt.
__NiTe__
__NiTe__
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FWIW, I bought 4 hockey pucks, put a kerf (saw blade groove) down one of the flat sides using a table saw, put one on a factory jack point, then lift the car at a pucked corner using a floor jack. The sheet metal flange at the jack point fits in the groove of the puck. The rubber of the puck is hard enough not to deform much at all with load on it. I use all four with four jack stands.
I've also jacked my car up at the back using the rear diff many times with no apparent problems. It is definitely more of a pain to get both front wheels off the ground. One of these days I'm going to try bonding a puck to the front center jacking point and try to fit the cover back on so I can jack directly on the cover. It is a real pain putting that cover on and off.
I've also jacked my car up at the back using the rear diff many times with no apparent problems. It is definitely more of a pain to get both front wheels off the ground. One of these days I'm going to try bonding a puck to the front center jacking point and try to fit the cover back on so I can jack directly on the cover. It is a real pain putting that cover on and off.