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How to wire/secure Autometer boost gauge

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Old Mar 11, 2004, 08:42 AM
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Question How to wire/secure Autometer boost gauge

I've read a bunch of posts and plumbing the boost gauge looks pretty straightforward.

The Project Evo Defi install mentions using the cigarette lighter harness to splice into for power, it looks like I want to use the black wire for ground and green w/ white stripe for power.

Do I have to remove the center console to access those wires, or just cram my head under the dash?

As far as securing the gauge pod to the steering column, I have the Autometer gauge pod on order, and was wondering if I drill/screw that baby on, or what the procedure is there.

Thanks in advance!
Old Mar 12, 2004, 07:07 AM
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I found it hard to get to the cigarette lighter, I removed the front panel, radio, HVAC center console, ashtray, and I still couldn't get to the wires. I think you have to remove the molded center panel around the stick to get to the cigarette lighter wires.

The dimmer switch is another option but whatever you do, Do NOT mess with the actual connector. It is very flimsy, when I worked on it with some other ppl, we bent the pins and the dimmer switch stopped working. So when the headlights turned on, all the gauges turned off. I had to take it back to the dealer to get it fixed.

Fuse taps are the easiest way to power gauges, interior lights, etc.

As far as securing the gauge pod to the steering column, you just mount it to the plastic molding on the sterring column. You can drill some small pilot holes and screw in the bracket or you can probably just screw them in by hand since it's not that thick. I took off the molding off the column but in actuality you won't hit any wires or anything if you don't take it off first.

Hope this helps.
Old Mar 12, 2004, 07:32 AM
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Actually you don't have to take the whole console apart to get to the wires for the Cigarette lighter harness.. Take the rear section of the console off (where the intercooler sprayer and cup holders are) If I recall, there's a screw under the intercooler sprayer switch if you pop it out, and 2 or 3 screws at the base inside the arm-rest storage bin..

Once your there, you should see the plug harness for the intercooler sprayer, a 4 wire harness and two "square things" (btw those are the EBD G-Force sensors for our brake system)

The four wire harness is the Cigarrette lighter harness.. You can tap into that.. there are TWO GROUND WIRES.. One is the ground for the light, the other is a ground for the Cigarrette lighter..

If you want your lights to dim, you HAVE to use the right ground wire (I think its black with a yellow stripe or something like that)

Anyway.. once you splice it in, you can tuck the wires back under the side of the console and run them up to the dash wherever you need..

DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE SHIFTER BOOT, its held on by plastic studs with one-way metal retainers, you will break them off if you try to remove the boot by prying off the ring.. -If you want to remove the forward portion of the console you need to remove the rear section first, then you can remove the screws that hold it down, the forward section is clipped on one side, and has a screw on the driver side under a plastic cap.. But its not necessary to get at what you want..
Old Mar 12, 2004, 07:51 AM
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Thanks to all for the info, that helps a lot!
Old Mar 15, 2004, 08:02 AM
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Autometer boost gauge install

Here's a few things I found out that I haven't seen in other posts that might help some people out in the future:

Wiring:

If you splice into the cigarette lighter harness under the center console, connecting to the black wire and green wire with white stripe, your gauge illumination will turn on and off with the headlights but will not dim.

Firewall:

You *don't* have to remove the glovebox to get through the firewall. There is a rubber plug on the extreme passenger side behind the shock tower. Pull this plug, and if you put a light pointed at the hole in the firewall you should be able to see the light when you have the glove box open. You can fish the 1/8" nylon hose through that hole easily with a coat hanger. Drill a hole in the rubber plug starting with a 1/8" drill bit and moving up until you can slip the plug back over the nylon hose with a good snug (not crushing) fit and thread it down the hose and pop it back into the firewall. You now have a good weather-tight seal.

Connecting 1/8" hard nylon to 1/4" vacuum line:

My solution was to get a male to female adaptor and a 1/8" hose barb from the hardware store and a 5/32" tee fitting and some extra vacuum line from the autoparts store. Hook the compression fitting that comes with the meter into the male->female adaptor and then connect the hose barb into that. Now you'll be able to splice into the vacuum line with a tee, and hook the the hose barb into the tee with a short length of vacuum line. Oh, use teflon tape on the brass fittings to prevent leaks.

Hope this helps.
Old Apr 11, 2004, 06:18 PM
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i have a defi boost and air/fuel gauge... this is my setup and i am wondering if someone can tell me what i'm doing wrong (if at all)....

tapped both illumination wire from the 2 gauges to the green wire... tapped both grounding wire to the black+yellow wire..

now both gauges not only illuminate, it also dims.

now for the problem... the air/fuel gauge also has an orange line that is "ignition" 12v. i tapped that into the red cigarette ignition line... but the air/fuel gauge doesn't respond when i am idling. is it i didnt tap the ecu correctly or am i not wiring it correctly?

Another question… my air/fuel gauge line also has a red line which is 12v battery, I don’t see any usage for it. Anyone have any idea?
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