Here's a write-up for installing Stainless Steel brake lines on an Evo. We used StopTech lines for this particular install, btw. Hope this helps.

http://www.joe250.com/cars/evo8/ssbr...rakelines.html

Joe
www.joe250.com

 

Fantastic work with these two posts. A SOLID contribution!

 

So, is this procedure pretty much the same for the standard Lancer? I was wondering because there isn't a write up seperately made for the RA or standard. Obviously I'm going to be checking to make sure the brake fluid will work, guess I'll try it tomorrow and see.

 

Joe, great writeups on this and the bleeding tutorial.

One thing I must stress: get the 10mm flare nut wrench. I tried a regular 10mm and it stripped one side of the flare nut. It's just not tight enough ( and that nut can be stubborn). I'm just hoping the other 4 sides will be enough to get that one off. Luckily I learned my lesson early and that will be the only challenge when I try again.

 

Sorry to bump this after so long, but i was reading everything and i had a question. I see the sequence for bleeding and I was wondering about something... I know you're supposed to start with right rear wheel, but after you bleed that one aren't you supposed to move to the left rear ?? I've been a mechanic in the USAF for a long time and that's how i was taught - you work from the wheel that's farthest away and work your way towards the master cylinder.

Is there something on the IX that's different ??

 

I just did mine, and noticed it was much easier to loosen the hardline nut with the retainer clip installed, and vice-versa. The metal tab that the soft hose is inserted into has a keeper designed into it which holds the bottom side stationary as you're loosening the 10mil hardline nut.

 

That 10mm bolt is real nasty, even with a flare wrench around it still doesn't feel like its tight. I've semi rounded one nut so I've just stopped for now. All the nuts are soaked in CRC atm.

 

Yeah the flare nuts are tight, add a little dirt and you have a major pain i the *&#. I stripped 1 flare nut even with the proper wrench...ended up just using some good locking vice grips on the rest of them. this seems to be the least damaging solution. One thing when you bleed the brakes make sure to bleed the brakes with the engine ON! if you don't you almost always get a soft pedal...I've done this 3 or 4 times before track days and having the engine on even when using a Motive Brake Bleeder always results in a solid pedal...

 

Lol Do Not Drink Brake Fluid

 

i did this yesterday with atf superblue it was 1.1-1.2 liter of brake fluid for the whole system plus clutch bleed.

 

solid write up, will have to do this and paint the calipers