How To: Hitch Install
Jul 5, 2007, 11:50 PM
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How To: Hitch Install
I needed a 1.25" hitch receiver for my Thule Bike Rack. I tried a custom one from a member, but wasn't satisfied with the fit on my IX (fashioned on a VIII I was told). It sagged when I put the bike rack and two bikes on it. A year later the "new" wore off the car, and I was ready to try this again. Disclaimer, I'm just sharing what I did. I will not be held responsible for any one else's installs.
I bought a Curt Hitch # 11476, which is really sturdy, with thick beams and welds that go all around the members (weighs like 25 lbs). You'll need to remove the bumper skin for this install. Follow the instructions that is already out in this forum, but DO NOT drill out any rivets. I used blue locktight for all connections.
I went to Home Depot and got 8 washers (probably shoulda gotten more), a Simpson heavy duty angle (used to secure stuff to foundations, or beam to beam connections - made out of 1/4" thick steel), locktight, (grade 5) 3/8" and 1/2" bolts with nuts and used alot of extra parts that I already have (like nylon lock nuts, lock washers, other washers, etc.). You'll need at least 3-5 washers for the left and right bolts because they are too long and will hit the bumper beam from the back (for the left and right "ears" of the hitch). The ears of the hitch are not secured to the bumper beam, but rather the bumper support which already has holes in those locations (as stated in the hitch install instructions, but the bolts are just about 3/8" too long though).
The Tow Hook metal connector will not exactly line up. I used a 5lbs sledge hammer to nudge it closer to the hook. I then secured it with a smaller nut/bolt with washers, a large nut as a middle spacer, and the supplied (with hitch) square washer.
The piece that bolts up to the bumper beam needs to be fabricated. I bought a 4-hole Simpson Heavy Duty Angle (1/4" steel) and drilled 2 holes in the bumper beam for install. I measured everything and marked the holes. I even drew the line through the angle to cut off the excess metal. I also marked the hole in the angle for drilling the hole that will secure the hitch to the angle. The hitch kit came with a "fishwire tool" to help install the bolts from the inside of the bumper. I used two 3/8" bolt with washers and lock washers (cut washer that is not flat, kinda like a spring) on both sides of the bolt, which helps in tightening up the nut without the bolt turning on me.
Of course, the corresponding foam in the bumper skin will need to be trimmed. Don't forget to dig out some holes for the bolts in the bumper skin.
It is alot of work, so if you don't have the proper tools or are not mechanically inclined, please don't try this install. Here is the finished product:
No electronics (for now), since it's only for a bike rack. This hitch is really sturdy once installed. No bending, cracking noises, no play, or any flex of any kind. It doesn't even sag/dip/bend when my Bike rack is installed with 2 bikes on it.
I left the pictures rather large so it can be saved and examined under magnification. Good luck.
I bought a Curt Hitch # 11476, which is really sturdy, with thick beams and welds that go all around the members (weighs like 25 lbs). You'll need to remove the bumper skin for this install. Follow the instructions that is already out in this forum, but DO NOT drill out any rivets. I used blue locktight for all connections.
I went to Home Depot and got 8 washers (probably shoulda gotten more), a Simpson heavy duty angle (used to secure stuff to foundations, or beam to beam connections - made out of 1/4" thick steel), locktight, (grade 5) 3/8" and 1/2" bolts with nuts and used alot of extra parts that I already have (like nylon lock nuts, lock washers, other washers, etc.). You'll need at least 3-5 washers for the left and right bolts because they are too long and will hit the bumper beam from the back (for the left and right "ears" of the hitch). The ears of the hitch are not secured to the bumper beam, but rather the bumper support which already has holes in those locations (as stated in the hitch install instructions, but the bolts are just about 3/8" too long though).
The Tow Hook metal connector will not exactly line up. I used a 5lbs sledge hammer to nudge it closer to the hook. I then secured it with a smaller nut/bolt with washers, a large nut as a middle spacer, and the supplied (with hitch) square washer.
The piece that bolts up to the bumper beam needs to be fabricated. I bought a 4-hole Simpson Heavy Duty Angle (1/4" steel) and drilled 2 holes in the bumper beam for install. I measured everything and marked the holes. I even drew the line through the angle to cut off the excess metal. I also marked the hole in the angle for drilling the hole that will secure the hitch to the angle. The hitch kit came with a "fishwire tool" to help install the bolts from the inside of the bumper. I used two 3/8" bolt with washers and lock washers (cut washer that is not flat, kinda like a spring) on both sides of the bolt, which helps in tightening up the nut without the bolt turning on me.
Of course, the corresponding foam in the bumper skin will need to be trimmed. Don't forget to dig out some holes for the bolts in the bumper skin.
It is alot of work, so if you don't have the proper tools or are not mechanically inclined, please don't try this install. Here is the finished product:
No electronics (for now), since it's only for a bike rack. This hitch is really sturdy once installed. No bending, cracking noises, no play, or any flex of any kind. It doesn't even sag/dip/bend when my Bike rack is installed with 2 bikes on it.
I left the pictures rather large so it can be saved and examined under magnification. Good luck.
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