ThewondererEVO

iTrader: (1)

nice write up... thanks for sharing... came out great, hope it holds up for you, sure it will.. after all you gave it enough room and solder and this is a car..

ThewondererEVO

iTrader: (1)

damn what happened to the days where u can post a write up and get a good job for it instead of technical wizardry. His method seemed fair and as stated its a "write up for his method". Seems to me it would do the job being its a car.... not a aerospace vehicle. Dont mean to impede on everyones freedom of speech but jeez, give the guy a break. He took the time to try to help as opposed to all the others pointing a finger over the internet. got a better solution? make another write up....

Good job and thanks to the author.

GTLocke13

iTrader: (1)

Sorry, I'm a EE geek. I get a little too technical sometimes. I would do the same thing, but 1) strip the jacket back further and 2) keep the heat on the lug for a little bit (10 seconds?) after you put the cable in. Or preheat and tin the cable. Or both. That'll give you a nice hot solder joint. The problem with a cold joint is not only is it structurally weaker, but it doesn't give you a good electrical connection either.

That is a freakin awesome picture with the solder on fire...

PDXEvo

iTrader: (4)

I wouldn't be worried about a cold solder joint in this case at all. That thing basically becomes a mini solder pot, and the solder will adhere to the wire just fine.

Dennis F

iTrader: (22)

So your telling me that if I throw an amp meter on the load side of the breaker, it is going to be the same battery voltage? For argument lets say 14.4.

That is impossible. Something always varies and ohms law follows that path.

I am not even talking about the advanced properties of this, keep it basic. If resistance goes up, you said a sub would not stay at 2 ohms because of the mechanics of this, then it goes up or down right? What would that do to current?

I am not talking about the internal voltage, that has to get a supply somewhere and the demand for that supply is also going to vary.

Also, if you change your subs to a lower resistance, power output is going to increase. What happens to make power increase?

I am not doubting your EE degree, but all the years of school I did for basic and advanced electricity, first class MECP and now working with medical equipment that is voltage specific for diagnosing (Back plain boards, HLC, LLC, high voltage PMT's) I also worked with hundreds of Iasca, setting up and judging and entering my own cars over the years.

I did however phrase what I meant to say about the subs being constant 2 ohms, I couldn't articulate what I wanted to say.

As for the joint, it will work, but it is not a good way to go about it. Catching slack for a write up is going to happen if it is not done the write way, sorry.

GTLocke13

iTrader: (1)

Ok, I kind of see what you were trying to say. Once you push enough current through a wire, you will start to see a voltage drop. You'll also start to overheat the wire (P=V^2/R). However, given the size of these wires I would expect any voltage drop in the system to come from exceeding the output capacity of the alternator, not from the cabling itself.

Dennis F

iTrader: (22)

I have witnessed a 30+/- amp draw from a small amp, 225 Orien HCCA, voltage drop through 1/0 drop down to 11 volts. This was also on a car, running, 140 amp alternator and a Optima deep cycle battery. Car also had 2, 1 farad capacitors.

Voltage drops happen, why do you think your headlights dim at night when the defroster kicks on.

GTLocke13

iTrader: (1)

Where were you measuring? Was it a 3.4 volt drop from the alternator to the end of the cable or did you check the voltage at the end of the cable vs. ground? Alternators aren't capable of putting out full current at idle. I'm guessing a dip that size was from the alternator not being able to put out enough current.

mifesto

iTrader: (58)

i was going to respond but DENNIS F took the words right outta my mouth.. you created a cold joint and it may fail.

Dennis F

iTrader: (22)

One was the volt gauge on the capacitor and the other was my fluke amp meter going straight to the battery.

I just realized we might be talking about 2 different things now. I know the wire has the ability to carry the current and NOT have a drop from the distance or size. My point is there is almost always a drop because of current draw going up with more volume.

kingman4

iTrader: (15)

The better way would be to first tin the cable first right? (By dipping it in some flux, heating it, then melting some solder on it)?